Love some TIG Porn in color

Anyone have any tips for polishing?
Here are my steps.
Glass Bead blasted
Wiped down with acetone.
Bought the harbor freight 6" buffer
This one but it's orange
6" Buffer
Put this on both wheels
1/4 Lb. Brown Polish Compound

Did the bottom half on the hard wheel first and the top half with the soft wheel. Not sure how to do anyway

40 minutes it took me to get here. back and forth from the polishing wheel to the bench and wiped it down, then wiped it down with acetone. Seems like I would get an ok looking finish and everytime I put the mothers mag & aluminum polish to it, it would get dull and I started over. So this pic is after the buffing wheel and no mothers polish.

Also how in the world will I get all the little dirt marks from polishing out of the bead. I couldn't imagine this whole can taking 3 -4 hours which is about the pace I'm at

Rub the bead and itll come out

It kooks good man! The bummer about polishing is it really shows if your welds are uniform or not.

What do you guys think of chop and welding the shifter? My inner ricer wants a shortie

Check this out. Just got this piece of metal in the mail, welded up a catch can. Wiped with acetone took to the soft buffing wheel for 30 seconds. NO blasting, no sanding, no mothers polish. Just the brown stick and a few seconds on the buffer.
And FML for taking a flap wheel to the front of it, now that won't polish but the rest of it looks great.

That looks awesome! How are you fitting up your box? You might get better looking edges If they are 90* bevel between the joints

Where sid you get the brown stick?

The top/bottom lined up with the edge. I would of preferred a little gap for a normal outside corner joint, but these welded up like a butt joint.
I just drew a 4" box with a hole in it and cut it on the cnc. Flap wheel around the edge really quick, hand file inside the box. Wiped with actone (no wire brush) and started welding.
10 seconds of filing and grinding. 10 seconds of cutting. 5 minutes of design.

The brown stick of polish was from harbor freight along with the buffer and I would recommend the 8" buffer. This 6" isn't long enough and gets HOT quick. Like after 5 minutes you can't touch the housing, because it's that hot.

Making the collector for my new exhaust manifold.

^ wow looks great

Can i see your purge setup?

I use a second bottle to feed the purge blocks.

Aaron did you have those custom machined or did you purchase them pre built?

Looks like a very nice setup. Nice welds too my man

I had Andrew at frontline make them. They aren't custom one off pieces, but they aren't something he stocks.

b16edcrxblitz said:

I had Andrew at frontline make them. They aren't custom one off pieces, but they aren't something he stocks.

Click to expand...

That looks real good, and they have bolt holes so the flanges dont warp?

Edit:

Ahh the alan head bolts ce through the bottom!

Maybe I'll have him make me one, any idea what they cost?

Also curious whos flange you use?

urbansmoker1 said:

That looks real good, and they have bolt holes so the flanges dont warp?

Click to expand...

Yeah. The cyl head block has through holes to use bolts/nuts and the turbine housing one is drilled for t3 and t4 bolt pattern.

You'll have to ask him about price, it's been so long since I got these I can't remember. I want to say 150ish for the pair? But like I said it's been a while. I generally use his flanges, this one was a vibrant. Not of fan of the vibrant flanges. Over sized and doesn't weld very consistently. Cleaned the flange multiple times and could still see junk in the puddle.

Doesnt look like my vibrant flange, that one has sunk in holes for the pipe! I'm looking at treadstone

The head flange is turbo-flanges. I was referring to the t4 flange being a vibrant.

Ahhhhhh yeah, vibrant gets the job done but you do know these vibrant parts all are sourced from china and shipped to vibrant (which is in mississauga ontario canada) to their distributing warehouse. Stuff made in north america is gonna be of better quality .

Aaron, how did those circles work out?

Gamble97 said:

Aaron, how did those circles work out?

Click to expand...

Haven't had a chance to get back on them with the weather we've been having. They look like they are going to work well though.

Haven't posted in a few months so I guess I'll share some recent work.

That is really beautiful work "Imback"

I finished up my friends, control arms, for his volvo, these things have some beefy QA1 end links.


For the first time I was able to stack some dimes, on mild steel...where as before, I would simply "smear" the metal.


Settings for the above, were
wp9 torch with #7 gas lens
13 cfh
3/32 E3 purple
50 amps full throttle.( might be a little too hot, seeing the heat propagation)
preflow 0.4sec, post flow 5sec

Regards

warren

What's the tubing diameter and wall thickness on those, Warren?

Hey paul, 1.25" tubing with 0.120 wall thickness, I will have to verify the wall thickness though, but it was set up to match the tubing adapters that QA1 sells. Definitely over kill for this vintage 60s volvo

Crank the heat up on those next time. I use that same tubing on DSM LCA's. I bevel the hell out of the tube and the Meziere ends that I use and already beveled, so I get a nice deep groove and excellent penetration. I run somewhere around 110-120 amps at full throttle and move the torch quickly. Comes out beautiful every time. I assume the heat propagation on yours had more to do with the speed in which you were moving.

And yes, definitely overkill in regards to sizing, but it sure beats the hell out of the opposite.

Awesome Paul, I will increase the amerage per your guidance and direction, thank you for the advice, it is greatly appreciated.

I really want to make some control arms for my colt, but if you have already engineered some arms , I should just buy yours.

No problem, man. I seem to be welding in threaded tubing ends alot these days, so I got pretty good at it.

I haven't done any 1G arms yet, but I plan to do a set of rear uppers and lowers very soon. Just waiting for the weather to warm up a bit. We're going to test the first set on Dan's 1G and his garage isn't heated. So, we're just waiting.