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When does fuelpump whine?

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nek

10+ Year Contributor
832
9
Apr 17, 2009
Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania
Long story short. Last night I was driving. Car stalled and wouldn't start. Cranked fine but wouldn't start. Sounds the same as when you pull the engine fuse to relieve fuel pressure. The problem is my afpr still said I had like 40psi. For some reason I still think its fuel. My question is when does the walbro whine. Should it whine in the "on" position or only when the car is started? This is in my 2gt.
 
OMG
This is why I dont take dates in the DSM.
I pay more attention to it than I do her.

One side of me says pray for no crank journal scoring. Maybe you'll get lucky and just need a good cleaning and new bearings.

Another side says you should be looking at the road and at that oil pressure not them legs in the passenger seat!

Good luck, bud.

P.S. Yes no compression in one or all of your cylinders would cause a no start.
 
I'd say replace bearings if it's not garbage while the pan is off

Hell I say build it. It needs to come apart to be cleaned if there is bearing material in the pan anyways. Assuming you didn't rape the mains it should be rebuildable. Pop the pan and take some pics for us, with flash pls.
 
First thing i'd be doing is pulling that motor putting it on a stand and tearing it down for inspection. Loosing oil pressure is a VERY serious problem, you should be worried about your main and rod bearings first and for most. Compression is important but if your rotating assemblies in poor condition then it doesnt matter how good the compression is its kind of null envoid and your fuel even less important. Running an engine with out oil for even minutes is far from good for it let alone being under load for how long. :ohdamn:
40 psi fuel pressure is low thats for sure that would cause a no start.
 
So my cars still sitting in front of my house and I get to look at it everyday before I leave for work. I was wondering. What are the chances I could pull the engine, bore it out, and replace with oversized pistons? I know there are a boat load of things that could be wrong with it but just looking at my options.
 
What are the chances I could pull the engine, bore it out, and replace with oversized pistons?

If you have the determination to do it, I'd say chances are pretty good. That's one reason why they make overbore sized pistons in the first place. Realistically though, you need to pull the engine anyway to find out what got damaged from the original issue. Alternatively, you could source a junked or used engine to drop in and go while you tear down and rebuild your old one. That can be knocked out in a weekend by yourself or in a day if you have some buddies willing to lend a hand.
 
I'm going to second buying a used engine and swapping it in or even going as far as paying a shop to do it. You obviously don't have the means to rebuild an engine at this point. Having run out of oil, there is bound to be a lot of damage which is going to take a lot of time to thoroughly inspect every piece of the motor, replace what's broken, flush out all the metal shavings, and clean it up.
 
You could have so many things wrong that i wouldnt buy one part without having a good machinist check, and re check, ever spec on the bottom end. I mean, things can get REAL ugly when you dump oil. As in, new rotating assembly at the very least. Even your crank could be shot now.
 
I was wondering. What are the chances I could pull the engine, bore it out, and replace with oversized pistons? I know there are a boat load of things that could be wrong with it but just looking at my options.
What are the chances that the engine can be pulled and bored by someone in general? Very good.

What are the chances that the engine being pulled and properly-built by yourself in the city with minimal space, minimal tools, and nowhere to build an engine? Slim to none.

What are the chances that whatever is causing the zero compression issue can be solved by an overbore and fresh pistons? Also slim to none. Literally anything that received oil is now damaged....the crank, the block, the head, the cams, the turbo. You get the idea.


Swapping another engine in it's place is the only real time- and finance-oriented solution.
 
I say just source a motor you can drop in and get the car back on the road. Messing with motor work doesn't sound like it's something you got time for.
 
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