The Top DSM Community on the Web

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. Log in to remove most ads.

Please Support Kiggly Racing
Please Support Fuel Injector Clinic

Shifter side-to-side play

This site may earn a commission from merchant
affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

HatchFiend

Probationary Member
20
0
Mar 2, 2014
Euless, Texas
Hello everyone, I'm extremely new to the DSM scene. Just bought a '92 Talon with the 4g63t (not sure if the 't' is supposed to be there, it is turbo). Before buying this I was a big Honda fan, but I knew these cars were great cars and it was a great deal so I jumped on it. Now for the topic at hand:

The shifter is rather loose and I've read some previous forums on here some were referring to the gearshift linkage bushing (p/n: MB307949) or it could be the shifter base bushings. My friend told me to buy the shifter base busings and cable bushings so we can replace those. Will this fix the issue or would I also need to get the gearshift linkage bushing?

Thank you in advance for any help that anyone can provide.

Also, stock engine for the most part (ARP head studs and Cometic head gasket), turbo timer or no? And anything to watch out for with these cars/engines?
 
Okay, thank you. I haven't had a chance to look at it just yet, but I'll get there.

What about the turbo timer question? Should I get one?
 
I usually just replace the rubber shifter base bushings with some washers from ace hardware(im a cheap ass LOL) just stack them until they're the same height as the rubber ones. Or you can buy aluminum shifter base bushing kits from extremepsi or mach v has good kits.
 
Last edited:
Regarding your question for the turbo timer, I don't think you will need one. Your car is stock you said and unless you floor it everywhere you go; I don't think you will need one. You can always just take it easy on the car before you know you are going to stop and if you are still worried, just let the engine idle for a little before shutting down.

But, if you want it, go for it!

Edit: Also seeing as you have coolant running through your turbo (you have a 92), you really don't need one. The turbo timers were moreover meant for turbos that have just oil running through them, thus allowing cooler oil to flow through it before engine shutoff. Your coolant will help keep your turbo cool.
 
901gtsi: I was looking at some on ebay, I found these here Those seem to be the most cost efficient ones that I could find. I didn't think it would make that much of a difference from these or Torque Solutions (especially considering you're using washers from ace hardware :p)

eDeclpse92: I have a '92 Talon, but I'm not sure what year the 4G63T is from. How do I tell the year of that? The B-Series Honda's that I'm used to were simple, look at the serial number, call the dealership and boom, are these the same?
 
I had an early '92 at one point. All you have to do is take a look at the oil pan to know if it's a 6 or a 7-bolt. If it's a 1990 motor the throttle body vacuum line setup will be different and there will be more sensors to worry about. I doubt they put a 90 motor in your car.

Here's a link for the oilpan differences. I'd recommend bookmarking the following website (page too if you want) since you're new.
How to quickly tell a 6bolt and 7bolt engine apart

So far as the actual year for the motor is concerned, I wouldn't worry about it too much since it doesn't matter all that much. With a few exceptions on the 1990 model year and a couple years in the 2g 7-bolt (can't remember for the life of me right now, want to say 1995) the parts are pretty much the same as well as the power output.

EDIT: Also, the side to side play you are experiencing happened to me in my '92 as well. I did not need to replace the cup bushing but rather these: (p/n MB367320).
http://www.jnztuning.com/product_info.php?cPath=21_30_113&products_id=3479

There are six (6) of them. I found that I only needed to change 4 of mine, two had been reduced to powder and another was half gone. I could literally move the shift knob over from 1st to 5th without any consequence. It was a miracle that it drove that way. I changed the two on the lever (controls side/side lever on transmission) and the two for the base lever (controls up/down lever on transmission). Hope that helps.
 
Okay, awesome. If what I buy doesn't fix it then I'll be getting those to replace.

The previous owner had told me that it was a 6-bolt from what I remember (can't believe I didn't think of that before). So that tells me that it's a 91-94 and there's no differences in those, correct?

Also, I'm going to try and post a pic of my TB. For some reason it looks like the guy ran the vaccuum lines back to the TB. It looks like there are 2 ports on the "bottom" if you will (closer to the turbo) and 2 on the "top" (closer to the firewall). He ran the bottom two together and the top two together. The reason why I'm asking is because I didn't pass emissions (and I need to) so I'm trying to figure out why. I was told this could very well be the reason why. Any thoughts?
 
Okay, awesome. If what I buy doesn't fix it then I'll be getting those to replace.

The previous owner had told me that it was a 6-bolt from what I remember (can't believe I didn't think of that before). So that tells me that it's a 91-94 and there's no differences in those, correct?

Also, I'm going to try and post a pic of my TB. For some reason it looks like the guy ran the vaccuum lines back to the TB. It looks like there are 2 ports on the "bottom" if you will (closer to the turbo) and 2 on the "top" (closer to the firewall). He ran the bottom two together and the top two together. The reason why I'm asking is because I didn't pass emissions (and I need to) so I'm trying to figure out why. I was told this could very well be the reason why. Any thoughts?

The 6-bolt was from 1990-early 1992. The 91/92 motors have no change between the years. in late 1992 the 7-bolt was introduced, there are differences in that from the 6-bolt. In a nutshell, if you have a 91/92 6-bolt, sweet. If you have a 90, not too bad, just more stuff to deal with. If you have a late 92 7-bolt then the guy lied to you and you just have to check for crank pulley play and always change your oil early or on time (and basically just be more paranoid). Having a 7-bolt is not the end of the world though.

A picture of the TB would help, though essentially all 6-bolts are the same. In 1990 the vacuum diagram is different.

Bribe the emissions guy.
 
Okay, awesome. If what I buy doesn't fix it then I'll be getting those to replace.

The previous owner had told me that it was a 6-bolt from what I remember (can't believe I didn't think of that before). So that tells me that it's a 91-94 and there's no differences in those, correct?

Also, I'm going to try and post a pic of my TB. For some reason it looks like the guy ran the vaccuum lines back to the TB. It looks like there are 2 ports on the "bottom" if you will (closer to the turbo) and 2 on the "top" (closer to the firewall). He ran the bottom two together and the top two together. The reason why I'm asking is because I didn't pass emissions (and I need to) so I'm trying to figure out why. I was told this could very well be the reason why. Any thoughts?

Best bet is look at your oils pan like someone above has mentioned. From what you described your throttle body it almost sounds like you have a 90. 91-94 all four vac umm ports should be on top rather than the 90 that has two on top and two towards the front of the car.
 
If the previous owner has the Vac lines looped, most likely the emissions system is gutted.
Can you see an EGR valve on the bottom left of your IM? or is it just a block off plate? If that's gone, it would be safe to assume everything else is.

You're pretty much stock according to your profile, so I would say it shouldnt be hard to get back into the green for smog.
 
Good catch on what I said Project90Talon. :thumb: I forgot early 92's were 6 bolts as well.
Thanks man :thumb:
Best bet is look at your oils pan like someone above has mentioned. From what you described your throttle body it almost sounds like you have a 90. 91-94 all four vac umm ports should be on top rather than the 90 that has two on top and two towards the front of the car.

Yeah, pointed him towards VFAQ. Sounds like someone dropped a 90 6-bolt in a late 92 car so far.
 
Here is a picture of my tb and the vaccuum lines. I'm not sure about the EGR valve. I can see if I can get under the car to make sure it's a 6-bolt and not a 7-bolt.
 

Attachments

  • 2014030495205940.jpg
    2014030495205940.jpg
    46.5 KB · Views: 70
Looking at the picture of your throttle body it looks like a 6-bolt motor from your year range (91-92), not a 90 since its ports are all on top. In terms of the vacuum ports on the throttle body being looped to each other, that was probably done just to block off the ports since they weren't being used. A better way to do that would be to cap each port separately. Double check what 97gsxIA said about the EGR valve being blocked off or not as this could be effecting your emissions testing.

To give some perspective.. I have the same motor in my car with the EVAP, EGR and most of the vacuum system deleted as well as an aftermarket set-up (see my profile) and tune (English Racing) and I still pass emissions in Oregon. Are you throwing any codes? Do you have a good CAT in your exhaust system?
 
The CEL isn't on, but that doesn't mean that the bulb isn't burnt out or disconnected... wooo LOL. As far as the cat is concerned, I'm not sure. I haven't checked the cat since I just bought this car last week. Haven't really had much time between work and visiting family to really tinker with the car. I know it smells like it's running a tad rich, probably has an exhaust leak, and every now and then I get some white smoke. Also I'm not sure if it's idling high or not but it usually idles around the 1k - 1.2k range. Whenever I get the bushings replaced I'm going to check out the vacuum lines with my friend. He's going to help with the install on those items since I've never done that to a vehicle before, I'm sure it's not hard, but it doesn't hurt to watch and learn.

What exactly is that part that's being looped together?

Also, how picky are these cars when it comes to adding new parts (exhaust, turbo manifold, things like that) as far as tuning? Do they usually need a tune when adding parts, or is it okay to add the typical H/I/E and not tuning it? I know I won't see the best performance boost unless I tune it, but is it going to drastically mess with the A/F ratio? And I don't know if it matters but I have the TD05 turbo.
 
Just FYI, Theres nothing wrong with 1g 7-bolts! It's the 2g 7-bolts you have to watch more for crank walk! 1g 7-bolts are good engines too.
90-92.5=6-bolt
92.5-94="good 7-bolt"
95+="crankwalk 7-bolt"
If my Talon wasn't already 6-bolt swapped when I bought it, I wouldn't waist my time swapping it for one. There's many differences between 6-bolts, 1g 7-bolts, and 2g 7-bolts, all of which I will not list here, as it's not the place, it's been done before, and I don't want to take away the satisfaction you get from searching the site to find the answer. But if you would like me to get more in-depth, please feel free to P.M. me and I'll do my best to answer your questions about that.
 
I'm surprised Texas makes you pass emissions.

What exactly is that part that's being looped together?

They are vacuum ports for the throttle body used mostly for EGR. Most people just block them off individually. The service manual list which line is used for. It's listed in section 25-6. I suggest you download them.
 
Also, how picky are these cars when it comes to adding new parts (exhaust, turbo manifold, things like that) as far as tuning? Do they usually need a tune when adding parts, or is it okay to add the typical H/I/E and not tuning it? I know I won't see the best performance boost unless I tune it, but is it going to drastically mess with the A/F ratio? And I don't know if it matters but I have the TD05 turbo.

You can add an exhaust, intake, and manifold without a tune and it will still run fine. I did that to my first car, which was mostly stock like yours and never had any issues. You might get more performance gains out of the parts with a tune, but I wouldn't worry about that until your ready for a turbo upgrade:D
 
talonsnwbrdr: Well thank you for the information, but since I don't think I'll be doing a different swap into this car I don't think I'll need to know the differences :D

KuckFatrina: First off, love the name, secondly thank you for the information. I'm still deciding between the 'bribery' and actually getting it to pass. Have to weigh options as to what's cheapest... if the emissions system has been gutted then I think it would be more efficient for the 'bribery' to take place.

Mitsu: Well that's good to hear. I always like doing the H/I/E just for a little boost, and of course the lovely sound. The turbo upgrade will come later when I have a chance to do it right. With the unknown mileage on the engine I'd do a bottom end rebuild before I went too crazy with the power.

To everyone: Thank you for the information so far... I'm sure I'll have more questions as I go along. THANKS!!!
 
I'm surprised Texas makes you pass emissions.

It varies by county. For example, where I grew up there are no emissions checks at all. State vehicle inspection consisted of turning on your lights and honking your horn. An example of a county that does check emissions is Harris County (Houston). It's weird.
 
It varies by county. For example, where I grew up there are no emissions checks at all. State vehicle inspection consisted of turning on your lights and honking your horn. An example of a county that does check emissions is Harris County (Houston). It's weird.

yeah agreed, i was stationed in Texas a couple of years, and it cost around 15 bucks to get "passed" ;) you fell me.
 
Yea, I can go to a county and get it to pass since they don't check emissions, but my vehicle has to be registered in that county. Otherwise I have to do emissions. Luckily for me... the car only has 2 years until no more emissions testing.

Have another issue now... my friend said that he saw kind of like a puddle of water/oil... I don't know if he knows 100% that it's oil but none-the-less its water and a fluid where my car sat and idled... and then where I went forward there was another one there. Is this normal at idle? Because when I got home (about a 10-15 minute drive, approx. 20 miles) and put my hand behind the exhaust for a little bit there was no liquid substance that was getting on my hand... so maybe it's only when the car is cool? I'm working on uploading a video right now of a popping sound every now and then when I had the car idling.

Edit:: Okay, well the video upload failed miserably but it seems as though the liquid that comes out is water with a mix of maybe dirtiness of the exhaust. Hopefully that's what it is and I don't have any problems. Should also be getting the shifter fixed soon, about to order the parts for it. Then I need to get some new headlights... anyone know of some good places to get some? I'm going to look for some used stock ones for a reasonable price, but sometimes the aftermarket ones can be cheaper.
 
Last edited:
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community
Boosted Fabrication ECM Tuning ExtremePSI Fuel Injector Clinic Innovation Products Jacks Transmissions JNZ Tuning Kiggly Racing Morrison Fabrications MyMitsubishiStore.com RixRacing RockAuto RTM Racing STM Tuned

Latest posts

Build Thread Updates

Vendor Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top