The Top DSM Community on the Web

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. Log in to remove most ads.

Please Support ExtremePSI
Please Support Fuel Injector Clinic

clutch will not disengage I have done a lot of searching and still no answers

This site may earn a commission from merchant
affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

flopp

Proven Member
50
0
Jan 24, 2014
NAVARRE, Ohio
ok so I installed a new slave cylinder new clutch fork and ball new clutch new throw out and checked that the clutch for was in the middle/ slightly toward the drivers side of the car and blead the crap out of it all. The slave cylinder is pushing the fork all the way to the edge of the transmission and the clutch fingers are going flat but the clutch will not disengage. when it is sitting back on the ground it will not go into gear at all I can not figure out WTF is going on with this thing. I searched on here but the problem is i am making out the clutch fork travel so it really cant be a maladjusted pedal or the slave cylinder needing to be longer though we did try that. heck it cant even be the assembly needs welded because as stated it is pushing the fork completely over. I really don't want to pull this trans out again but is it possible that even my brand new fork and ball needed shimmed? If so maybe i can get a line wrench on the ball through the fork boot and loosen it up and then place c shaped shims in there to space it out ???? Help I am really stumped and need to get this out of the garage i have other cars to work on LOL
 
This kind of leaves you with flywheel step (what is it?) and the disk/pressure plate itself. What happens when you put it in gear, clutch in then start it? Is it dragging so bad the car moves? If so and you're getting that much slave travel you'll have no choice but to drop the trans and inspect the clutch itself.
 
put a brand new pressure plate and clutch disk in it and still has the problem my buddy brett found that my clutch pedal needs welded so i will be pulling that next so he can adjust it with me and see where that gets us. I thought the last but of travel needing to be pulled manually was normal he says it isn't so thats next on my list
 
put a brand new pressure plate and clutch disk in it and still has the problem my buddy brett found that my clutch pedal needs welded so i will be pulling that next so he can adjust it with me and see where that gets us. I thought the last but of travel needing to be pulled manually was normal he says it isn't so thats next on my list

while your setting all this up heres a good thing to read up on!

Clutch Drag Kills Synchros! – Jacks Transmissions LLC
 
you probably need extended slave cylinder rod. Both of my cars needed it.
 
If you can pull up on your clutch pedal and has play going up that is part of your issue, I just figured that out with my disengagement issues after new clutch assembly, etc and a trans rebuild.
 
you probably need extended slave cylinder rod. Both of my cars needed it.

second this i just had to do this in my car and i did everything that you did and couldnt figure it out and then i tryed the pushrod and it had to be fully extended in my case just adjust some and try and repeat until it feels good you will know when its there
 
Extended slave rods and shimmed pivot balls are just crutches to another issue. To answer your question if you can get a line wrench in and put a c shaped shim, no you cant. Theres just not enough room with the clutch for there to get a wrench in there.

Im curious as well about what Pauleyman asked. E-brake down, in first gear, clutch down and turn the key. If your car lurches forward as you crank you have an issue with step height. Did you have the flywheel resurfaced when you did this clutch job? If not that is most likely your issue. Im pretty positive you just have a serious case of clutch drag.
 
i tried an extended slave cylinder rod that didn't help the situation. The car will lunge forward since it is basically in gear whit the clutch pedal pushed in. Brett has built a few dsms and thinks I need to pull and weld the clutch pedal assembly then readjust the master and hopefully that works. I have been able to get a wrench on the pivot ball through the shift fork boot it just felt like it was going to start rounding off. The flywheel step what exactly is that I have done quite a few clutches in jeeps and other cars and this is the first I am hearing about the flywheel step?
 
Ok im saying this and its probly gonna sound stupid but is there a spacer on your slave cylinder? I guess when i switched transmissions in my buddys 1990 talon we forgot to put it back in and were at a loss for longer than id like to mentionLOL.
 
Extended slave rods and shimmed pivot balls are just crutches to another issue. To answer your question if you can get a line wrench in and put a c shaped shim, no you cant. Theres just not enough room with the clutch for there to get a wrench in there.

Im curious as well about what Pauleyman asked. E-brake down, in first gear, clutch down and turn the key. If your car lurches forward as you crank you have an issue with step height. Did you have the flywheel resurfaced when you did this clutch job? If not that is most likely your issue. Im pretty positive you just have a serious case of clutch drag.

+1. I've had similar issues with my truck from a tweaked pressure plate and poor flywheel surface.
 
i tried an extended slave cylinder rod that didn't help the situation. The car will lunge forward since it is basically in gear whit the clutch pedal pushed in. Brett has built a few dsms and thinks I need to pull and weld the clutch pedal assembly then readjust the master and hopefully that works. I have been able to get a wrench on the pivot ball through the shift fork boot it just felt like it was going to start rounding off. The flywheel step what exactly is that I have done quite a few clutches in jeeps and other cars and this is the first I am hearing about the flywheel step?

The step height is the the measurement from the mating or friction surface to the outer shelf that the pressure plate bolts to. Stock specs for this are .608" - .612" .. If the step is too great, you'll have symptoms like slipping, too little and you'll have very bad dragging issues such as the ones you are having right now.
 

Attachments

  • stepheight.jpg
    stepheight.jpg
    18.8 KB · Views: 67
what is the step height for a centerforce clutch? i wonder if my flywheel was milled down for some reason or maybe this is y the centerforce df clutch in it was mangled so bad
 
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community
Boosted Fabrication ECM Tuning ExtremePSI Fuel Injector Clinic Innovation Products Jacks Transmissions JNZ Tuning Kiggly Racing Morrison Fabrications MyMitsubishiStore.com RixRacing RockAuto RTM Racing STM Tuned

Latest posts

Build Thread Updates

Vendor Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top