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Dry/Wet compression results

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tay97gst

10+ Year Contributor
476
32
Dec 20, 2011
Plaistow, New_Hampshire
So long story short, I bought my project car with no engine in it and bought a built engine off someone from the forums. I've finally installed every mod that I want to so it's time to get ready to get the car tuned and painted. It really only has idle time on it but it's been burning oil every since I got it running, (I know this because the smoke coming out of the exhaust and I have pics of the exhaust ports if you want to know the extent of how much oil its burning, spark plugs are also fouled). To find out what is causing it to burn oil I did a compression test today to see how the rings are.

The Results:For the dry test each cylinder was exactly 180, with throttle WOT, and for the wet each cylinder was exactly 210, with throttle WOT.

Just wondering if these results were enough to confirm that it's the piston rings and enough to warrant getting this fixed. Should I do a test to check the valve seals regardless, (a leak down test I believe)? I'll answer any more questions you guys need to know because I want to make sure the engine is absolutely running right before I take it to the dyno/track.

Spark plugs look like this on every cylinder
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Dry Results
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Wet Results (About half a cap full of oil)
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So does it look like the rings are good? Should I start assuming it's the valve seals? That would also explain why my boost gauge needle is shaking in vacuum at idle, wouldnt it?
 
+1 for valve seals
If you have the right tools you don't have to pull the head to replace them. Saving machine work and gasket money if possible
 
+1 for valve seals
If you have the right tools you don't have to pull the head to replace them. Saving machine work and gasket money if possible

You can inject each cylinder with compressed air to keep the valve from sliding down in to the cylinder while you pull the springs/retainers to get to the valve guide seals, but this is a pain in the ass.

You could easily pull the head 2x faster than trying the above method.

But it is doable.
 
Do a leak down test and it will tell you whether it's a ring or seals. Not a hard test to do just have to have a leak down tester to do it. I have yet to find a common retailer that had one. Ordered mine online.
 
Well thanks guys! I can sleep better tonight! I'll get the valve seals replaced and will update this thread with resolved if it fixing the issue. Hopefully these pictures/ information will serve useful for others who were in the same position as me. I may also do a leak down test just to give a little more information on the subject
 
Do a leak down test and it will tell you whether it's a ring or seals. Not a hard test to do just have to have a leak down tester to do it. I have yet to find a common retailer that had one. Ordered mine online.

He doesn't need a leak down test because he is not losing compression.

Leak down tests are performed when compression is being lost to indicate where it is being lost.

He has an oil burning issue, with good compression across each cylinder, meaning his rings and valves are sealed properly, but the valve guide seals are letting oil leak into the combustion chamber/exhaust ports.

Good luck, OP.
 
i would have to go with rings or turbo .... not the valve seals. Reason for this answer is upon closer inspection the pooling up of the oil is at the end of the port where it merges onto the intake manifold. what i am not seeing is wetness on the valve stem right below the valve guide i.e. valve stem oil seals.
 
Well guys, I got the valve seals replaced and..... it's still smoking :(. I just want to make sure I'm not missing anything thinking about this. The only way for oil to get into the combustion chamber (which it obviously is because my plugs are fouled) is to either get by the valve seals or rings right? I'm thinking that maybe just the oil rings on the pistons are bad and the compression rings are good which is why I have great compression? I bought a leak down tester so I'll do that this week and report back but I'm just looking for other thoughts as well. Is there anything else it could be that I'm overlooking? I think I have all the information that's important answered earlier in the thread but ask me any questions you might have.
 
Alright guys I need help to figure out if I'm doing this leak down test right. I believe I am but I'm getting like barely any leakage so I just want to see if I'm doing something wrong. All information is in the video. If it matters, the engine is cold when this is being done.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-QdAK6Ta_SA

So I just tested cylinder #4 and I got just about 100% leakage. I heard air coming out of cylinder #2's spark plug hole and out the tester itself so I'm not sure what's going on with this..
 
If you have 100% leakage on cylinder 4 I would venture to say you didn't have it on the compression stroke. As far as the smoking problem goes do you know if the oil is getting into the engine from the intake side? Are you having issues with oil burning in all 4 cylinders?
 
If you have 100% leakage on cylinder 4 I would venture to say you didn't have it on the compression stroke. As far as the smoking problem goes do you know if the oil is getting into the engine from the intake side? Are you having issues with oil burning in all 4 cylinders?

Yeah oil is getting into all 4 cylinders. But shouldn't 1 and 4 be at the same place? I tested 1 and 4 while the dowels on the cam gears were at 12 o'clock and the cam marks were perfectly lined up with each other so i thought they should both be at TDC, yes?
 
Nope, you made me question myself for a moment though, When cylinder number 1 is at TDC Compression #4 will be at TDC Exhaust Stroke, In this picture below you'll see on that on when #1's lobes are facing up as they would be on compression stroke #4's are facing down as they would be on exhaust

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