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JUN camshafts

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Yea I like to research alot before making a decision to know Ive made the right choice. I just want something that will idle good with decent vacuum, drive close to stock in light throttle conditions, but once the turbo gets going pull hard til 7k. I also want to keep good torque numbers.
 
I think it's sorta like in the late 90's people used to see no point in going larger than 2.5" exhaust unless you had a 20g. Funny how opinions change with the times. fortunately facts do not. And the fact is very few cams increase power everywhere without losing any low end.

Also the posters extreme worry about low end, could be blown up out of proportion sort of like how some people worry to death about poly motor mounts, when really imo there not that bad at all.
 
Or how a 20G wasn't "streetable" LOL

I would be looking at GSC S1s with a set of adjustable gears, this would meet your criteria for idle characteristics and the top-end.

But - The best thing you could do for spool (low-end torque) would be an exhaust cut-out on the downpipe immediately downstream of a dumped O2 housing.
 
I already have a very high flowing exhaust and do not want a cut out. If I found a deal on some gsc's I wouldn't hesitate to buy them.
 
I already have a very high flowing exhaust and do not want a cut out. If I found a deal on some gsc's I wouldn't hesitate to buy them.

You want top end from a more aggressive cam, while maintaining torque at the bottom.. you're going to have to remove as much post-turbine back pressure as possible.

If you have a full exhaust system, especially with a catalytic converter, even if it's a true 3" ID you are leaving lots of torque on the table.

Any amount of back pressure is multiplied by the turbine's expansion ratio (similar concept to compressor pressure ratio) and added to the drive pressured need to make the power in the first place.

If you have just 2-3psi post-turbine back pressure with an ER of ~2.5, you now have ~5-7psi additional drive pressure.

On a 16G, even at lower boost, it's not uncommon to have >2.5 Drive:Boost ratio. So to make 15psi target boost in the intake, you may well need 30+ psi in the exhaust manifold just to drive the compressor.

Add to that 5-7psi from unnecessary restriction and it makes you yet more knock prone, further decreases VE, raises EGTs and most pronounced of all to the driver: impedes spool.

You are running richer with less timing if on pump gas and fuel limited, possibly at less boost then you could potentially get away with too. Power will come in later and fall off sooner as a function of VE.

So, maybe spool is not as crucial to you as previously described? Just saying.

That seems like a silly thing to make a priority and then not follow through with something simple with no compromise. Don't want the noise/attention? Shut the cut-out.
 
Hks 264/272 vs. fp2(comp 102100)

Thoughts? How much torque/low end will I loose with the fp2's? How much top end will I gain with the fp2's? I have the evo3 intake mani, fp exhaust mani and the evo3 turbine housing is ported.

when I installed the fp1s I was removing evo1 cams. was very disappointed in the "upgrade" . evo 1 cams are a little bigger than dsm cams. So I sourced some fp2 cams to try. I was much happier with the fp2 cams. you quickly get used to the torque loss between the two. the gains up top were very pronounced. they idle great. I can idle mine smooth at 750rpm with DSMlink. the HKS cams dont idle that great. kinda choppy as I remember. The FP2 do everything better than the HKS272.

between the fp1 and fp2 there was maybe a 15ft torque loss in the 2500-3500 range. but about 20hp gain from 6-7500.
 
JUN cams are known to be more aggresive than their competitors. Kelford 264 and 272 are the closest in comparsion for JUN cams in terms of power. They are popluar in the Southeast Asia market. If I could do it all over again, I would go with JUN 264.
 
I thought evo springs aren't much better than stock?

I run evo springs in my 600whp car as well. that car has crower 414s . has spun to 9300 rpm in the AEM logs. people tend to overspring their setups. just causes unneccesary heat and friction, hp loss. the increased belt tension does not help keep oil pumps alive..

the evo spring is light. and its also a behive design. (smaller diameter at top= easier to move because top is lighter) the evo retainer is lighter than even titanium retainers for most aftermarket springs. the evo follower is also lighter. the springs job is to control the motion of valve, spring, retainer, and cam follower. if you lighten these parts the springs job becomes easier. thats why the evo springs were an upgrade over dsm springs. they control less weight with less spring pressure/friction.

evo retainer 4 grams , dsm retaner 14 grams, titanium 6 grams
evo follower 2 grams lighter than DSM
evo spring 8 grams lighter?
evo ex valve 10 grams lighter? intakes were equal.
dsm installed seat pressure 62
evo seat pressure 52

so even though the evo spring was less seat pressure it was about a 10% upgrade over DSM setup due to the less weight the spring needed to control. less friction and mo HP.

I should correct, I do run the evo valvetrain. I use all the lighter evo parts.
 
Where did you find those cams kyle.

On the classifieds on here. I was looking for a while and finally found some. Freshly cleaned up by delta cams too.

Someone just messaged me the other day with a set since I forgot to delete the ad. If you're looking for some I can ask him if hes still got them.
 
Not now im doing maintenance tires springs struts ya know, hope to have all this done before june, getting there. Then tuning and paint, whew come a long way.
 
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