I forget the exact thread, but a little searching around here will lead you to a link where you can download the entire service manual for our cars for free. My only concern with pulling out all the emissions stuff would be the increased chance of throwing one (or more) CELs. Well that and the loss in mileage, if that concerns you.

Milage isnt really an issue since it wont be that much of a decrease and im hoping that the CELs will stay away by luck of the draw haha Plus maybe some tuning will help on Milage and maybe being able to delete the codes... Just looking into the options as for rite now

Honestly, if this is a street car/daily driver type vehicle, leave the emissions stuff alone. It actually helps the car run more efficiently.

Well couldnt I clean it up through tuning though?
I did just find out I dont have to have any of it for inspection so I believe I am going to do this whenever I find the time and some info on it. Seems like it might take a weekend to do and do rite for the clean look and functionallity im wanting to keep my DD running good.
Now as far as without Tuning will it run bad or just hurt the gas milage? As far as my knowlegde goes I wouldnt think it would hurt it to the point where id notice

There have been alot of write ups on this. But it's debatable about the MPG but if there is a lose it's maybe 2-3MPG and nothing more. The emission equipement just recycles volitile exhaust back into your combustion cycle. Without it the volitile emissions just get expelled into atmosphere without burning. That's why it's for emissions and environment.

This mod will not give you any performance gains over the original stock. If you do have any bad emission equipement though bypassing it or removing it from the loop will restore some lost umph that was lost due to the degradation.

Not 100% on the 2g for this mod. I did it on my 1990 and wow. Didn't get any power gains but smoothed out my idle A LOT. My EGR valve was coked almost completely closed. And my vacuum lines where old, dry, and cracked.

If your not concerned with emission testing or inspection I'd do it. Removing all those hoses will give you less areas for leaks, less of a jungle of engine bay, and may restore some "lost" performance.

Here is a write up I found with 1 search try it is pretty helpful and gives you the diagram for the 2g mod. http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/art...-speed-shop-vacuum-diagram-removal-1g-2g.html The red dots are caps on the system if there isn't a red dot on the end of a removed hose you can leave it uncapped. If your running the stock boost control solenoid the 1 hose immediatly after the filter and the 1 on the j-pipe stay connected with the waste gate and solenoid as is.

Well im really not worried about the little negative effect it may have on MPG and im hoping it will clean the bay out alot since I know the car has some bad vaccum lines with slight leaks so this will clear alot of things up as you stated before. The goal is for a Cleaner and simplier engine bay and hopefully solve any problems if any....
Ive seen that post before on my search but I was hopeing for some real life pictures and all sicne it is pretty crazy in there haha Cant be but so hard from what im seeing since it seems your basically removing 75% of all the vaccum lines anyway
Thanks for the help!!!!

what do they do for inspection where you are at? is it just a CEL check for OBDII cars (plug in their computer and check for readiness status and fault codes) if so you will more than likely fail, as soon as you start unhooking the solenoids for the emissions you will get a CEL. and with the 96 ecu there is really nothing you can do about it. you would either need DSM link or a 98-99/EVO8 ecu to disable those CELs.

All they do is bacis visual check for exhaust leaks, brakes, rotors, tires, and anything underhood that looks abnormal as far as leaks or broke things. Then they make sure there is no airbag light or brake light on and your basically good to go after that! No emissions checks, no tail pipe test, and no CEL check. So im clear as far as inspection goes and I plan on leaving it all connected just ripping all the vaccum lines off and capping things that need it to keep the CEL away if possible and Link will be here in a month or so

Just leave all the solenoids plugged in, but tuck them away out of sight along with the wire loom that they're on, that should keep the car from throwing a CEL. If you want to get really fancy, you can solder resistors in place of them that show the ECU the same resistance as the solenoid, that will also keep the CEL away. Remove the EGR valve, get an EGR blockoff plate from ebay and put that in place of it. All the vacuum line that goes with the EGR can be ditched, its all attached to the intake manifold. The line from the fuel pressure regulator can be run directly to the intake manifold. The charcoal canister and all that stuff can be just ditched, the steel line that comes up to the engine bay from the fuel tank can be just left open. You'll need to cap off all the intake ports and vacuum ports that won't be used anymore, I believe there will be one on the intake, one on the intake manifold, and two or three on the throttle body. Again if you want to get really fancy, you can take your intake manifold and throttle body off, cut off those unused ports, weld them shut, sand and polish the welds down, and then no one will be able to tell they were there.

If you're getting rid of your cat as well, to keep from throwing a CEL, you'll need to get a male/female pipe fitting that can be screwed into your exhaust, then your downstream O2 sensor can be put in that. This keeps the O2 sensor out of the exhaust stream enough to keep it from throwing a code. All the downstream O2 sensor does is check to see if the cat is working.

Another little thing you can do to clean up the engine bay is eliminate the power steering cooler line that runs down in the front of the car from the bottom of the power steering reservoir. To do this just loop one of the existing hoses from the bottom of the reservoir to the other inlet/outlet on the bottom of the reservoir, whichever it may be, and clamp it down. Then take out the now unused piece of line in the front of the car.

As far as fuel economy goes, after I did all of this to my car, I didn't notice any difference, and my car runs exactly the same as before. And trust me I wouldn't have done any of this if it effected anything negatively, because I'm really anal about my car. Hope this helps.

Just wanted to post an update that I did this on my car last night and it drives exactly the same. (still idles like shit )

The metal piping underneath the TB threw me off a little though because I was thinking "oh shit am I supposed to take this off?", but other than that everything went well.

I didn't block off the EGR (don't have a block off plate and didn't have time to fab one up), but I threw 2 vac caps on it and it seems fine for now. I'm probably going to go with the STM plate because it looks sexy as hell. I live in a pretty cold/wet climate and it was 9'C this morning and she fired right up.

IMO the most difficult part of this was getting the canister out but luckily the flimsy metal bracket that holds it on was easily bent so I could get a ratchet in there and undo both bolts. Also if you have large wrists like mine you might want to have someone there with tiny ones to get them through the middle of the battery stand to undo the 2 bolts that hold it in.

Good luck!


Also I should mention... The diagrams that I found say to cap off the fuel line (the one that runs into the charcoal can.), but I left mine open and ran a hose almost straight down to an opening where I could see the floor and I initially smelt gasoline a few seconds after starting, but on my way to work today - nothing.

Ok I know i made this thread a long time ago but I am doing this on another car and cant remember how I did this haha.
I have removed the Charcoal Canister already and the hard lines going to it but this is where im at my lost point haha. What do I do with the 2 peices under the battery tray?
What do I do with the EGR Valve hard lines?
(I believe all of this is just removed and I keep everything plugged in but I cant remember so if you guys would help out it would be great)

Ppayer38 said:

Ok I know i made this thread a long time ago but I am doing this on another car and cant remember how I did this haha.
I have removed the Charcoal Canister already and the hard lines going to it but this is where im at my lost point haha. What do I do with the 2 peices under the battery tray?
What do I do with the EGR Valve hard lines?
(I believe all of this is just removed and I keep everything plugged in but I cant remember so if you guys would help out it would be great)

Click to expand...

There is a one way valve that is connected to the charcoal canister. Some people just take it off completely and let the line hang. This will net some fuel smells though when your tank gets pressurized. Another option is some people turn this valve around and plug up that line so no gas fumes can come through. This will definitely cause increased pressure in the tank but the theory is if something is going to give, this plastic valve will be first.

As far as the EGR lines, the easiest way is to install an EGR blockoff plate and just eliminate all of those lines. Other wise you will have to plug those lines connected to the EGR valve. Also I was one of the lucky ones and had no issues with CEL. I removed all of them ugly silenoids!!

OK, I'm not sure what all to remove, but I'll look at the diagram and hopefully figure it out, but I haven't really found one with real pictures yet (which is how I do things, I am not a mechanic type person so I'm not very familiar with stuff like this). So. aside from all the vacuum lines, do I also remove hard lines (ie metal ones)? Also, why just plug everything up? Can't I just remove it all? Is there a safe way to do this? I'd much prefer a walkthrough from someone who has completely removed all emissions-related things, including solenoids, lines, etc. (with pics). But I know this may not be possible, so I need to know if I just start tearing things out, if I'm gonna #### up my engine.

Thanks.

The worse that can happen is a few check engine lights come on and then you back back and fix what you dhould not have removed... I used the diagram that was provided a few post up and it worked great.. I dont believe any hard lines were removed just vaccum lines and a few solinoids are just chillen now still plugged in and not capped off just kind of hanging there. It is very easy to do just do it 1 line at a time and if it is not on the diagram then it does not need to be in the car!

It cleans alot of space and crap up so it will pay off in the end you will be happy. Just remember to take you time and do 1 line at a time.

Ppayer38 said:

The worse that can happen is a few check engine lights come on and then you back back and fix what you dhould not have removed... I used the diagram that was provided a few post up and it worked great.. I dont believe any hard lines were removed just vaccum lines and a few solinoids are just chillen now still plugged in and not capped off just kind of hanging there. It is very easy to do just do it 1 line at a time and if it is not on the diagram then it does not need to be in the car!

It cleans alot of space and crap up so it will pay off in the end you will be happy. Just remember to take you time and do 1 line at a time.

Click to expand...

alright thanks!

does anyone have pics of before and after im still stuck on which one to delete

I will like to see a walk through about this subject also. It will be very helpful for us newbies.

i know please help!!!!!!!

I guess I can make one.... starting tonight on it. I'll take pictures and hopefully be able to create a walk through.

And I'm done. I took some pictures. I'll post something soon.