Im surprised those lasted as long as they did. I had a buddy install one of those and the shaft seized inside the oil pump in less than a mile. Resulting in this

are the BSE kits from extreme psi a good kit? seeing as its a very popular vendor I assume their kits are the oem mitsu kits but I just want to make positively sure before I buy a kit of my 6 bolt build and my temporary 7 bolt engine. I bought a parts car with a completely blown clutch so I could get up and running for the first time in almost 2 years........really don't want it to be a short lived up and running

IMO mods should tag this as a permanent thread in the newbie forums since its most commonly asked in the newbie thread and well......most don't use the search function or look in the FAQ forum.

buhay6 said:

are the BSE kits from extreme psi a good kit? seeing as its a very popular vendor I assume their kits are the oem mitsu kits but I just want to make positively sure before I buy a kit of my 6 bolt build and my temporary 7 bolt engine. I bought a parts car with a completely blown clutch so I could get up and running for the first time in almost 2 years........really don't want it to be a short lived up and running

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Yea, there kit is oem.

awesome man thanks

I just make the stubby shaft out of the oem balence shaft. Has worked for me.

4g63t said:

I just make the stubby shaft out of the oem balence shaft. Has worked for me.

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That works too, it has the oil groove, cut and plug the rear shaft!

buhay6 said:

awesome man thanks

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JAT Motorsports on ebay. Less than 50$ for the oem kit.

How about $17 at the dealer for the stubby shaft only?

less than a $1.00 for a 35mm freeze plug, and some RTV that you have in the tool box.

Flip the front 2 BS bearings and done.

BogusSVO said:

How about $17 at the dealer for the stubby shaft only?

less than a $1.00 for a 35mm freeze plug, and some RTV that you have in the tool box.

Flip the front 2 BS bearings and done.

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How about 17$ from the dealer and leave the other Shaft in so no high oil pressure issues to deal with when using a plug? Then just flip the oil pump bearing.
Edit: and leave out the belt

MJcanada said:

How about 17$ from the dealer and leave the other Shaft in so no high oil pressure issues to deal with?

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That's what I call the "In Car BSE" From what I understand it a PITA to get the front shaft out with the engine in the car.

The only draw back is about the 5lbs of weight from leaving in the BS.

No reason to flip the rear/oil pump shaft bearing, the oil supply for that bearing is through the rear BS. There is no oil galley in the block to feed it.

Or if your extra thrifty, use a stubby on the rear and just leave the front shaft installed without a belt.

Bam. BSE for <$20

Edit: MJ beat me to it. But there's no need to flip the bearings on the pump side, there's no oil galleys leading to them. The oil would normally come through the BS itself.

BogusSVO said:

That's what I call the "In Car BSE" From what I understand it a PITA to get the front shaft out with the engine in the car.

The only draw back is about the 5lbs of weight from leaving in the BS.

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You leave the belt out

MJcanada said:

You leave the belt out

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but make sure the spacer and gear are in place...

WES_393 said:

But there's no need to flip the bearings on the pump side, there's no oil galleys leading to them. The oil would normally come through the BS itself.

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Forgot about that part . So just remove the bearing si it don't magically fall out Lol

Bogus, what is your thought on the OEM stubby vs a "race shaft" (Turned balance shaft). Have you seen any difference in wear patterns on front cases between the two?

I did the BSE and removed both the front and rear shafts with the engine in the chassis.

I should have taken pictures and done a write up, but I was skeptical of it working and didn't. I made a tool out of a bolt, some washers and other things sold at the hardware store. Made for a very easy install of both bearings.

T is for TURBO said:

Bogus, what is your thought on the OEM stubby vs a "race shaft" (Turned balance shaft). Have you seen any difference in wear patterns on front cases between the two?

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I agree with the theory of the cut down shaft, and how it add a bit more support to the oil pump gears so they can avoid contact with the front case if the timing belt is over tensioned.

But if the block suffered a spun rear BS bearing, then the stubby shaft will work as well.

renovatdkitchen said:

I did the BSE and removed both the front and rear shafts with the engine in the chassis.

I should have taken pictures and done a write up, but I was skeptical of it working and didn't. I made a tool out of a bolt, some washers and other things sold at the hardware store. Made for a very easy install of both bearings.

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I have a cam bearing knocker, and it makes it a PITA to R&R the front BS bearings, So I go "Backyard" DSM, and use the front BS as the knocker.

No need to even mess with the rear BS bearing if using a stubby shaft.

So I ordered the part number in your original post for the stubby shaft, but it doesn't have the oil groove in it, could I have gotten a mis packaged one or am I missing something?

Funny you posted this Dale, We just posted this on our facebook page on a customers car that randomly broke the oil pump gear and come to find out it had a cheap stubby shaft in there.



STAY AWAY FROM THEM SPEND THE EXTRA MONEY AND BUY OEM!!

SIM OEM BSE KIT -Balance shaft elimination kit.

Doubleot said:

So I ordered the part number in your original post for the stubby shaft, but it doesn't have the oil groove in it, could I have gotten a mis packaged one or am I missing something?

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Any help?

Must be mis packaged or mis machined.

Who did you order it from?

I ordered 2 last week and both have the proper groove.

Post the pic of the one you have.

Must be mis packaged or mis machined.

Who did you order it from?

I ordered 2 last week and both have the proper groove.

Post the pic of the one you have.

My friend actually had it, it was sealed in the package and has the exact part number as the OP. I'll take some pictures after work and post them up. I might just cut my original balance shaft and use the stub so I don't have to buy another stub shaft.

I think I'm mistaken, I meant to say the stub shaft doesn't have the oil hole in it, so I'm assuming this is correct and it's not supposed to have the oil hole in it.

It does not and should not have an oil hole in it.

The oil hole in the original rear balance shaft is to allow oil to travel through the shaft center to the shaft's bearing. With a stubby shaft you're obviously not using the rear bearing so no oil needs to travel through it. Hence, no hole.