which they sell the t lines as well..but they wouldnt know that they carry them,they dont just work there or anything..

i had my girl in there with a list,and she came back with the t's..

Bud92gsx said:

I feel nobody uses autometer gauges anymore..Or im old.

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Probably because their over priced crap

I don't mind paying, as long as they work as they should. Maybe I'm just unlucky but any Autometer gauge I've ran hasn't been that accurate. Also had one new that was way out of spec & another one that lost accuracy over a summer or two.

Their expensive, but I like Defi.

I had the 7 color 30psi glow shift boost gauge. Worked great for a year and then got a little Notchy when it got to the vacuum part. Then again my greddy boost gauge is doing the same.

daren_p said:

Probably because their over priced crap

I don't mind paying, as long as they work as they should. Maybe I'm just unlucky but any Autometer gauge I've ran hasn't been that accurate. Also had one new that was way out of spec & another one that lost accuracy over a summer or two.

Their expensive, but I like Defi.

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I had 1 boost guage losse accuracy..It didnt go back to 0 it was on 2/3..But that only had 20 positive numbers on it,so after it lost accuracy,i got another autometer..

Ive only had autometers since i owned the car..Only ever gauge brand ive owned was my innovate.

So maybe im just a fanboy of autometer..And keep goin back..

well since everyone is still postin on here i have another question

today i passed someone and i gunned it to the floor and my boost gauge shot all the way down to thirty my car peeled tire and then just went boom and shot a huge thing of smoke out i know i hit fuel cut but could it really just ran that much or and by the way i was already running 70 mph i havent hit boost since then....

you're pushing at least 20psi on a stock turbo, aren't sure the cause, and still decided to floor it? unless you want to buy a new motor sometime soon, i suggest you don't do that anymore


and yes, it was fuel cut.

iiNFAMOUSCHRiS said:

you're pushing at least 20psi on a stock turbo, aren't sure the cause, and still decided to floor it? unless you want to buy a new motor sometime soon, i suggest you don't do that anymore


and yes, it was fuel cut.

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Yeah thats definitely good advice. Just out of curiosity, what could cause a t25 to hit 20 psi? May it do that towards the end of its life?

If it is intermittent, then I would look at your waste-gate actuator. They tend to stick sometimes. This is of course after you have already tested for boost leaks

I've never hit wot in this car since I have bought it

iiNFAMOUSCHRiS said:

you're pushing at least 20psi on a stock turbo, aren't sure the cause, and still decided to floor it? unless you want to buy a new motor sometime soon, i suggest you don't do that anymore


and yes, it was fuel cut.

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I think that's what mines is doing... but idk I need too hook up my boost g... so I can see what I'm boosting on my 16g

Bud92gsx said:

I had 1 boost guage losse accuracy..It didnt go back to 0 it was on 2/3..But that only had 20 positive numbers on it,so after it lost accuracy,i got another autometer..

Ive only had autometers since i owned the car..Only ever gauge brand ive owned was my innovate.

So maybe im just a fanboy of autometer..And keep goin back..

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I recently chose Innovate over Autometer, but it was a hard choice. What made you go auto meter instead of staying with the Innovate Gauges?

Autometer has just been around since needing gauges was.... well, needed.

I personally used to use autometer in other cars. I've since found that other manufacturers have the same or better standards/presentations in their gauges. They all fail over a period of time. Its just a matter of what you're wanting for the "look" of your setup. Since I've had the eclipse I've put in glowshift black face 7 color gauges with an innovate wb gauge. The innovate is the orange color version so it somewhat matches the gauges (mounted in the instrument cluster gauge bezel) and the rest, which I keep teal to match my radio and safc screen, are mounted in the a pillar.

I personally think glowshift gets less credit than they are due. I've had my gauges for almost two years now and haven't had a single problem with all 3, boost, oil pressure, coolant temp.

I also bought direct from their site with their "buy 3 deal".... got the three gauges and the pod for $150 + shipping

Spoolingaround said:

I disagree. I've been told by people that this is a little risky. If anything happens to that line T'd into the FPR and it starts leaking, your fuel pressure will NOT raise with boost, making you run lean and potentially damaging your engine.


Personally I have mine T'd off on the vac line off my BOV.

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Is this true? I mean, not doubting OP but can someone else comment about this? I have my boost gauge T'd off the FPR.

*Also using glow shifts. No problems so far.

952g63t said:

Is this true? I mean, not doubting OP but can someone else comment about this? I have my boost gauge T'd off the FPR.

*Also using glow shifts. No problems so far.

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Well, it is true. If there is a leak in that line then the FPR will not see the correct level of boost and thus fuel pressure will be off, thus AF will be off. There is no arguing that. The main argument is "will it ever leak" or "can something happen to cause a leak there" which personally I just don't chance it.

^^ !!!

Spoolingaround said:

Well, it is true. If there is a leak in that line then the FPR will not see the correct level of boost and thus fuel pressure will be off, thus AF will be off. There is no arguing that. The main argument is "will it ever leak" or "can something happen to cause a leak there" which personally I just don't chance it.

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The reason people started using the FPR vac line as the boost gauge source is because WHEN the vacuum line fails. And they all do after many years. Your gauge will either loose the reading completely or start acting weird to the point you know something is up. If you T you gauge into the BOV and the FPR line breaks/falls off or whatever. You have no idea until your either running lean and notice or you happen to open the hood and catch it.

So the correct place to T a boost gauge is into the FPR line not the BOV line.

silvreclips said:

The reason people started using the FPR vac line as the boost gauge source is because WHEN the vacuum line fails. And they all do after many years. Your gauge will either loose the reading completely or start acting weird to the point you know something is up. If you T you gauge into the BOV and the FPR line breaks/falls off or whatever. You have no idea until your either running lean and notice or you happen to open the hood and catch it.

So the correct place to T a boost gauge is into the FPR line not the BOV line.

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This doesn't make any sense. the vac line to the boost gauge is usually a thinner more brittle plastic line which it why is does fail in time as you mentioned. The rubber or silicone vac lines are much more reliable and less likely to become brittle after the years. Thus, relying on the silicone or rubber ONLY for the FPR is much less likely to encounter a failure than introducing the brittle plastic line for the gauge into the FPR.

Either way if you have a leak in the FPR line you're going to notice oddly lean AFs. If there is a leak when its tied into either the Bov or the fpr youre going to notice inaccurate boost gauge readings.

If you ask me, it seems pretty stupid to introduce a part that you know is going to fail eventually into a system which is critical for your engine health.

Anybody using a GlowShift Wideband guage with DSM Link V3?

Spoolingaround said:

This doesn't make any sense. the vac line to the boost gauge is usually a thinner more brittle plastic line which it why is does fail in time as you mentioned. The rubber or silicone vac lines are much more reliable and less likely to become brittle after the years. Thus, relying on the silicone or rubber ONLY for the FPR is much less likely to encounter a failure than introducing the brittle plastic line for the gauge into the FPR.

Either way if you have a leak in the FPR line you're going to notice oddly lean AFs. If there is a leak when its tied into either the Bov or the fpr youre going to notice inaccurate boost gauge readings.

If you ask me, it seems pretty stupid to introduce a part that you know is going to fail eventually into a system which is critical for your engine health.

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How often does your boost controller line break?? The point is you will know almost immediately if it ever breaks. I check my gauges often and would notices odd vac readings way before I notice a lean AFR.

Rarely will you watch your WB while doing a 3rd gear pull unless your tuning the car. So you will probably never even notice slightly leaner AFR. With it tied into the boost gauge you will notice the fail much sooner while you cruising or sitting at idle when you have time to check your gauges.