I used a dremel and a cut-off wheel to cut a slit (or two or three) on the sleeve/bushing and used a pipe wrench or vice grips to hold that part. Then I took a long socket and extension through that access hole on the left and a long breaker bar at the end of it on the head of the cam bolt, and pushed/pulled on it until either the head of the bolt snapped off or the bushing and what was left of the bolt separated.

If you have a cut off wheel. Cut it down the bolts centerline and the sleve will seperate in two.then use a flat chisle and hammer . Place in the cut you made to knock off the sleeve. . You can also use a air hammer with a chissel blade.

Paul@RTM said:

Brand new OEM toe control arms are available and they're not very expensive. Save you a lot of trouble. But if you absolutely want to retain your current ones, then some version of drilling out that bolt is your best option.

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What are you talking about, ??? Retain what ? You must NOT be able to see the photos!

NWHTanK said:

If you have a cut off wheel. Cut it down the bolts centerline and the sleve will seperate in two.then use a flat chisle and hammer . Place in the cut you made to knock off the sleeve. . You can also use a air hammer with a chissel blade.

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This actually sounds like a good idea, thanks man I might give this a go.

luv2rallye said:

The bolt also rusts to the bushings metal sleeve (as well as the frame) which is why heating or drilling doesn't do it. I already went through this on mine and no amout of heat made any difference (I tryed Mapp-O2 torch - propane is not hot enough, but I ended up having to cut it). You'll have to cut it out (per http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/art...3-replacing-seized-rear-toe-control-arms.html - note FWD parts are listed here - also read my post 2 there for extra info) and get another arm (for AWD: MR162573 for left, MR162574 for right, MB911315 for eccentric mounting bolt).

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Hey thanks for stopping by, its always a pleasure. I get that heat wont do it, but I originally used your thread to assist me, thus why some of your pics are on my thread, ive tried your methods, still no resolve. Ive broken a 1/2 breaker bar, soo no amount of brute force is going to save the day here.

Don't forget to use antisieze on the inside sleeve to keep it from happing again. durring reasembly.

NWHTanK said:

Don't forget to use antisieze on the inside sleeve to keep it from happing again. durring reasembly.

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Trust me I will, can I use grease?? I have plenty of general purpose waiting to be used. Another interesting note, if I press out the old pivot ball, from the old toe arm I removed, I can save it for the future when ever I install a full energy suspension kit.

You can use geeese , but I prefer anri seize. .The prothane kit comes with every thing needed. Make sue the ball joint is in good working order. Don't qoute me on this but you might be able to get just a dust boot for it.

NWHTanK said:

You can use geeese , but I prefer anri seize. .The prothane kit comes with every thing needed. Make sue the ball joint is in good working order. Don't qoute me on this but you might be able to get just a dust boot for it.

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If it's stiff enough, if all directions yes. Which it is.

Try an Angle Grinder with a 4.5" grinding wheel and just grind that bit off (broken side).
Then when the broken side is flush it should just fall out. Or at the very least you'd simply be able to quickly put a punch and hammer it out.

Angle grinders are kinda fat and tough to fit in there but it looks like one should work for you.

What are you talking about, ??? Retain what ? You must NOT be able to see the photos!

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Sorry, my bad. Didn't look closely enough at the pics.

yeah, that seems like the best remedy. I have seen plenty angle grinders that are pneumatic , i wonder if harbor freight carry's electric? .

miliman13 said:

yeah, that seems like the best remedy. I have seen plenty angle grinders that are pneumatic , i wonder if harbor freight carry's electric? .

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They do. I just used one today to cut off the bolts for the rear upper control arm on my 1g. So I feel your pain on subframe bolts...

Link to the one I have: Heavy Duty 4-1/2" Angle Grinder

Everyone laughs at Harbor Freight but for $22 + 20% off coupon = win. I've used mine for about 3 yrs still going strong.

Mike02rt said:

They do. I just used one today to cut off the bolts for the rear upper control arm on my 1g. So I feel your pain on subframe bolts...

Link to the one I have: Heavy Duty 4-1/2" Angle Grinder

Everyone laughs at Harbor Freight but for $22 + 20% off coupon = win. I've used mine for about 3 yrs still going strong.

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Thanks, oh and the guys who talk smack about the harbor are the same guys who insist on paying an extra 500 dollars for anything because of a logo or "brand" name. most times brand name matters but not with tools for me, i have never had a harbor tool fail me, but i have had plenty of craftsmen fail.

although i already have a grinder just like yours, but i need something thinner, to fit.

something like this, looks like it will fit,

Electric Die


Grinder with Long Shaft

Hey, i already have a dremel, do you think a tough cutting wheel will work with a dremel to get this done or no ?

Do you have a air compresor? If so how big?

No compresor looking for electric

Rgr rgr

miliman13 said:

this is very helpful, but using this technique, i would have no choice but to buy a new arm correct? or is the bushing/sleeve come separate? i cant tell if its 2 pieces or one solid piece ?

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

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Both my rear eccentric bolts were rust welded to the bushing sleeve of the lower control arm... I used the method as described here with a recip saw and a 6 inch metal cutting blade, with cutting oil, and it worked like a charm. I literally did each side in 30 minutes each. Just be careful not to cut anything other than the actual part being replaced. Total cost was under $75 per side. You also get a new balljoint at the same time, and now I can adjust my rear toe in.

You may have shift the cut as close to the outside edge as possible to avoid having a bolt head with 1/2" inch of sleeve still stuck on there... the nut side should slide right out no cuts required on that end if you can get the nut off that is.. I also put axle greese on the new bolt to prevent this from happening again

ricktb said:

Both my rear eccentric bolts were rust welded to the bushing sleeve of the lower control arm... I used the method as described here with a recip saw and a 6 inch metal cutting blade, with cutting oil, and it worked like a charm. I literally did each side in 30 minutes each. Just be careful not to cut anything other than the actual part being replaced. Total cost was under $75 per side. You also get a new balljoint at the same time, and now I can adjust my rear toe in.

You may have shift the cut as close to the outside edge as possible to avoid having a bolt head with 1/2" inch of sleeve still stuck on there... the nut side should slide right out no cuts required on that end if you can get the nut off that is.. I also put axle greese on the new bolt to prevent this from happening again

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thanks man, but i think your a few pages late on this one. We are past that point.

SUCCESS


Self pat on the back !

I picked up a 3" die grinder from Harbor Freight for around 30 bucks. It barely fits in the space were the toe arm was removed from the rear sub-frame. Using this little guy a hammer and a BIG flat-head screwdriver i was able to remove this benign tumor!

P.S it took me another hour with this method, due to the small space in which to work.

I hope this detailed, thread serves others in the future! and if it does rate the thread!

""In this pic, i had to cut the wheel down to about 1,1/2-2" to fit at first.""










this gap, is were i put the flat head in, and then hammered away. i could not cut further, or else i would damaged the frame.

Way to go...

Had same thing happen on my crash beam in the rear when i was tossing it. Pain in the ass but once it's gone, so satisfying

urbansmoker1 said:

Had same thing happen on my crash beam in the rear when i was tossing it. Pain in the ass but once it's gone, so satisfying

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Your telling me !

Hey just for reassurance.
this is the correct oem piece, from STM. Thanks again Brian.!

- 2G 95-99 DSM AWD (LH/Driver)

nwhtank said:

cut the bolt out with a sawzaw. And replace the bushing set with a prothane kit.

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this

mike1992 said:

this

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what?

miliman13 said:

please dont use my thread to beef up your "post" number. im looking for actual responses- Thanks

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Good to see you fixed it but "shaking a finger" at someone for posting a single word and starting an argument isn't going to do "your" thread any good. Besides, Mike1992 has been here since 2003 and has almost 3,000 posts so I'm pretty sure bumping his post count is the last thing he's trying to do.

He recommend you get a prothane kit, take it or leave it.