Do a boost leak test before anything.

You may have ripped/pulled off the evap purge canister line. The purge canister is located underneath the battery tray and basically filters fumes from the gas tank and dumps the pressure into the intake snorkel. Trace that line from your intake snorkel to the area underneath the battery tray and see if that's the problem. Also check the rubber line that connects the hard line from the fuel tank to the purge canister. This would explain the louder BOV sound and the fuel smell.

The bov leaks at 13psi not before, if you are mbc to above 14psi then the turbo is running nearly wide open because there is a leak(bov).
Did u pinch the fuel return line cause more fuel pressure? When installing the starter.

srumel said:

You may have ripped/pulled off the evap purge canister line. The purge canister is located underneath the battery tray and basically filters fumes from the gas tank and dumps the pressure into the intake snorkel. Trace that line from your intake snorkel to the area underneath the battery tray and see if that's the problem. Also check the rubber line that connects the hard line from the fuel tank to the purge canister. This would explain the louder BOV sound and the fuel smell.

Click to expand...

This may sound really dumb? But what does the canister look like?

nismoz said:

The bov leaks at 13psi not before, if you are mbc to above 14psi then the turbo is running nearly wide open because there is a leak(bov).
Did u pinch the fuel return line cause more fuel pressure? When installing the starter.

Click to expand...

My car connected to the stock Boost controller, now here's the deal, I have a code CEL p1104...so may it be bad enough to nt do anything at all and have my turbo boosting at 14 or more psi?

No I didn't pinch it on purpose but I may have when I was shoving the starter doe the bay at 1 a.m in morning no light what so ever.

Looks like a coffee can with about 6 vac lines coming off and around it... its directly under the battery tray, the battery is 1" above it.

Edit: I believe I've said this 2 to 5 other times in your other threads and its not coming across... if you don't know know if your bcs is "any good" and you have no idea what psi you are running, then hook the vac line directly from a boost source in the turbo compressor cover or j pipe to the wastegate, this will put your boost at stock pressure which should be around 10 psi. Leave the bcs plugged in and just move it out of the way.

Mine leaked starting at 5psi. At 15 it was like there wasn't even a valve there. Food for thought.

Pic of the canister....3 posts down. A little grainy, but I hope it helps.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/380353-charcaol-canister-vent-pic.html

Breezio69 said:

Looks like a coffee can with about 6 vac lines coming off and around it... its directly under the battery tray, the battery is 1" above it.

Edit: I believe I've said this 2 to 5 other times in your other threads and its not coming across... if you don't know know if your bcs is "any good" and you have no idea what psi you are running, then hook the vac line directly from a boost source in the turbo compressor cover or j pipe to the wastegate, this will put your boost at stock pressure which should be around 10 psi. Leave the bcs plugged in and just move it out of the way.

Click to expand...

This is actually the first them I read tho honestly or I probably didn't even notice it I'm sorry.


And Will do bro thank you

805LegendDSM said:

This may sound really dumb? But what does the canister look like?



My car connected to the stock Boost controller, now here's the deal, I have a code CEL p1104...so may it be bad enough to nt do anything at all and have my turbo boosting at 14 or more psi?

No I didn't pinch it on purpose but I may have when I was shoving the starter doe the bay at 1 a.m in morning no light what so ever.

Click to expand...

Its not goin to hurt anything immediately, but will probly break the turbo in a few thousand miles. Explain again how its running 14psi on the stock solenoid?

nismoz said:

Its not goin to hurt anything immediately, but will probly break the turbo in a few thousand miles. Explain again how its running 14psi on the stock solenoid?

Click to expand...

You didn't read the whole thread did you?

But let me re write the original post, since at the time I was posting through my iPhone and I'm no texting expect...

"My car has the Stock boost control solenoid connected and itS routed to my T25 . Now here's the problem, I have a code it's P1140...now may my BCS be bad enough that it's not doing it's job, and it's letting my car uncontrollably boost from stock psi to idk 14+?"

Ok...well...since the last time I posted in this thread I've done a couple of things...
Before I did anything i disconnected my battery..

I re-routed the lines and have my turbo connected directly to the wastegate acuator.

I checked all vacuum lines from the back of intake manifold, BOV, intake piping before turbo, all lines are connected no leaks or tips what's so Ever.

Checked fuel lines no pinched sections.

I left my stock Boost controller plugged in bit the nipple are uncapped.

I gutted my MAF, took all honey comb out maybe to lean it out a bit.

My Fuel pressure solenoid is plugged in still, and the fuel pressure regulator is connected to the intake manifold.

I erased the codes with a scanner, and the CEL can back on after a few drives, P1104 & P1105.

Now no obvious leaks...

What happened right after...car runs no different boost seems little light, but at a stop while in gear (D) or park or neutral the car seems to wanna stall idlig really low we're talkig about 500 Rpms..while acceleration it's fine doesn't bog.

I haven't bought a boost gauge just yet, next week I'll buy one. And a boost leak tester.

Next week I'll replace fuel injector rings and new spark plugs....

IF, and this is assuming that you have the vac line deleted properly, if you have the vac lines gone, the fuel pressure solenoid and bcs plugged in, but no lines running to them, then the sensors could just be bad still plugged in. All of mine are plugged in with a full vac delete and I dont throw a code, none of my solenoids (that are still plugged in) have caps on them either.

I'm still leaning toward a boost leak, good to hear you hooked up the wastegate to the turbo and not the possibly broken bcs. Get a boost gauge, if you spike then drop below 10 and sputter out you almost surely have a leak somewhere.

Yeah try the evap cbarcoal canister but if your loosing fuel I'd say maybe a bad fuel filter or leaking from the fuel filter.. I just replaced mine cause my copper washers were bad so it was steadily misting out gas..

I dont mean to hijack this thread, my question is semi related. If the BOV is leaking, is it possible that it would affect idle vacuum?

Antimob said:

I dont mean to hijack this thread, my question is semi related. If the BOV is leaking, is it possible that it would affect idle vacuum?

Click to expand...

Not if it is leaking from boost. Only it is leaking from the diaphragm just take it off and pull vacuum on it, and see if it leaks down if you suspect a problem.

leathaleagle21 said:

Not if it is leaking from boost. Only it is leaking from the diaphragm just take it off and pull vacuum on it, and see if it leaks down if you suspect a problem.

Click to expand...

Alrighty, thanks for the input

805LegendDSM said:

You didn't read the whole thread did you?

But let me re write the original post, since at the time I was posting through my iPhone and I'm no texting expect...

"My car has the Stock boost control solenoid connected and itS routed to my T25 . Now here's the problem, I have a code it's P1140...now may my BCS be bad enough that it's not doing it's job, and it's letting my car uncontrollably boost from stock psi to idk 14+?"

Ok...well...since the last time I posted in this thread I've done a couple of things...
Before I did anything i disconnected my battery..

I re-routed the lines and have my turbo connected directly to the wastegate acuator.

I checked all vacuum lines from the back of intake manifold, BOV, intake piping before turbo, all lines are connected no leaks or tips what's so Ever.

Checked fuel lines no pinched sections.

I left my stock Boost controller plugged in bit the nipple are uncapped.

I gutted my MAF, took all honey comb out maybe to lean it out a bit.

My Fuel pressure solenoid is plugged in still, and the fuel pressure regulator is connected to the intake manifold.

I erased the codes with a scanner, and the CEL can back on after a few drives, P1104 & P1105.

Now no obvious leaks...

What happened right after...car runs no different boost seems little light, but at a stop while in gear (D) or park or neutral the car seems to wanna stall idlig really low we're talkig about 500 Rpms..while acceleration it's fine doesn't bog.

I haven't bought a boost gauge just yet, next week I'll buy one. And a boost leak tester.

Next week I'll replace fuel injector rings and new spark plugs....

Click to expand...

Your boost spikes from stock to 14+psi. Sounds like the waste gate actuator. And not a boost leak! Usually when you have a boost leak your car will cut under boost.

After connecting the wastegate to a turbo boost aource(on the turbo) it ran good seem to held boost, even though I don't hae a gauges stock needle would hold little under the last line...

Wasn't able to get a gauge today proabably won't get one for another 2 weeks thanks to valentines day and my wife and daughters...

But now out of the blue...my psi seems to spike up so bad like, when I hit boost the car just won't go anywhere and the little stock boost gauge doesn't hold at the last bar it literally bounces past it, checked all lines from before no change no leak everything right the vacuum line from the wastegate is good. Is my wastegate acuator stock open or close now?

BUMP re-searched and still can't seem To find out anything and have any idea if I did something wrong?

805LegendDSM said:

After connecting the wastegate to a turbo boost aource(on the turbo) it ran good seem to held boost, even though I don't hae a gauges stock needle would hold little under the last line...

Wasn't able to get a gauge today proabably won't get one for another 2 weeks thanks to valentines day and my wife and daughters...

But now out of the blue...my psi seems to spike up so bad like, when I hit boost the car just won't go anywhere and the little stock boost gauge doesn't hold at the last bar it literally bounces past it, checked all lines from before no change no leak everything right the vacuum line from the wastegate is good. Is my wastegate acuator stock open or close now?

Click to expand...

This really seems like a boost leak to me. If you are hitting full boost and your car goes nowhere, and the stock "boost" gauge spikes up, it could be counting air that is going out somewhere after the MAF. The maf is compensating for the air, but it is not actually being used.

Get one of these,


Put one of these in the end


Put this on it


And place final product on turbo inlet, fill with air and listen for leaks!

ryztriumph said:

This really seems like a boost leak to me. If you are hitting full boost and your car goes nowhere, and the stock "boost" gauge spikes up, it could be counting air that is going out somewhere after the MAF. The maf is compensating for the air, but it is not actually being used.

Click to expand...

+1 On This.


OP from what you have said it almost certainly sounds like a boost leak. The 2g bov is prone to leaking even at stock boost levels, it is plastic and could be causing your issue. It should be replaced with a factory 1g bov or suitable replacement.



Also the stock boost gauge is not accurate by any means, don't rely on it for troubleshooting.
Do a proper boost leak test and report back with results before bumping for answers to an issue only you can resolve.

Oh, and I forgot to add, before I used my stock boost gauge as a knock gauge, I was running about 18-20 psi on my 14b, and it was at the same spot, or lower than when I had the t25 at stock boost.

Like everyone says, you can't rely on it. Real boost gauges are relatively inexpensive, lots of fun to watch, and very easy to put in.

So...I found my leak..

Bov was leaking ...the nipple broke and previous owner replaced it with a little metal tube with what looks like super glue, I just noticed the crack going down the the middle and realized the super glue failed...since it moves in and out, but that wasn't the leak, I guess it just leaks under boost.

Replaced it with a Knock OFF block off valve...which I've used these ebay bovs before and didn't have a problem with a type s and type rs both in the past did me nothing but good functioning performance.

Well this purple top wannabe type s bov, looked and seem fine...but it just fluttered like crazy an loud on every setting I could think of. I wasted near 20 bucks of gas just adjusting it.
All recirculated...
Both springs- all settings = flutter..
Single spring(large)-all settings = flutter...
Both springs with second port plugged in-all settings = flutter
Single spring(large) second port plugged in- loose settings=flutter
Now...more and more reader aches nearly 3 hours of adjustment..I dug deep into Evo forums and found a link to Greddys type s Adjustment instructions. They state that the second port should always remain open, that it's a vent. Note taken, removed the hose and not only that, Evo forums say that leaving in the small spring will make the blow off valve have no fluttering what so ever. They weren't kidding, removed the large spring, slapped on the small one..
Single spring(small)-5-6turns from contact= no fluttering/Stock BoV sound
Single spring (small)-8 turns from contact = Greddy Type S signature sound ...wow...loud enough to hear through stock airbox stock everything...10psi

Goodnight...

I would get a new bov the gen 2 stock ones were just bad all together.