I just picked up this turbo
It has engraved "GT30-60" I tried searching on Google and no luck
To my knonlege I know there's 3071r and 3076r by looking at the compressor wheel
The 3071 and 3076 compared to mine mine has 7 blades
The others have 6
The fellow dsm'er I got this turbo from made 525hp here are a few pics maybe justin can help me identify this turbo
Btw it's a ball Bering turbo

Breezio69 said:

I picked up a small h1c (44/72) turbo for about the cost of two cases of beer. I was going through it and this thing is clean and tight. My question is this, can I upgrade the compressor side to a 56 or 60mm by replacing the backing plate, wheel, and compressor cover?

Click to expand...

You can, but don't go any larger than 56mm or you'll potentially outflow the turbine wheel depending what turbine housing you'll be using.

H1's also suffer from a weak thrust system...to prevent putting a pile of money into this thing, you should consider unloading it and buying a HX35 if that's what you're looking for. Much more-reliable in the long run.

You'll need to venture out from local transactions to find deals on HX35's. eBay is a great source as long as you make sure the turbo came from a running vehicle and not a core supplier with unknown history. Price for a good used HX35 should be in the $250-$300 range, or about the same as what your total investment will be with bringing the H1 dinosaur into the 21st century.

awdmonster1904 said:

I just picked up this turbo
It has engraved "GT30-60" I tried searching on Google and no luck
To my knonlege I know there's 3071r and 3076r by looking at the compressor wheel
The 3071 and 3076 compared to mine mine has 7 blades
The others have 6
The fellow dsm'er I got this turbo from made 525hp here are a few pics maybe justin can help me identify this turbo
Btw it's a ball Bering turbo

Click to expand...

An interesting piece indeed.

It's a 3076R with the -13 suffix on the part number. Part number for the CHRA would be 700177-5013. It's basically a GT30R with a T04S 60-1 compressor wheel rated at roughly 60 lb/min. I'm assuming that's where the "60" came from which is engraved on the cover.

If it were a SBR turbo it would be called a GT13. If it were a PTE turbo it would be called a GT3076RLS-13. Doesn't really matter who distributed it- Garrett built it, so it's a quality piece.


There was also a -12 and -14 suffix....the -12 was also a 7-blade compressor and rated at 55 lb/min; this was the cartridge which was used in the old FP 3055 from ages ago. The -14 turbo had a 35R compressor wheel which later became known as the GT3082R or FP 3065. The -12 and -13 turbos are no longer available, both being replaced by a plain 6-blade 3076R.



We actually talked about this exact model turbo in this very same thread just two months ago and two pages back.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/turbo-system-tech/393636-questions-justin-72.html#post153353115

JusMX141 said:

You can, but don't go any larger than 56mm or you'll potentially outflow the turbine wheel depending what turbine housing you'll be using.

H1's also suffer from a weak thrust system...to prevent putting a pile of money into this thing, you should consider unloading it and buying a HX35 if that's what you're looking for. Much more-reliable in the long run.

You'll need to venture out from local transactions to find deals on HX35's. eBay is a great source as long as you make sure the turbo came from a running vehicle and not a core supplier with unknown history. Price for a good used HX35 should be in the $250-$300 range, or about the same as what your total investment will be with bringing the H1 dinosaur into the 21st century.


[/url]

Click to expand...

I appreciate your help, I actually mistyped the size of the wheel I had my eye on with the backing plate, it was the 54/83 wheel, which from what I understand is the "big h1c" that does not have the compressor surge porting milled all the way through... correct? And the 52 doesn't have milling at all?

I'm glad this works out, I think this thing was ran on whatever it was on for a very short amount of time. I pulled it apart and it hadn't appeared to be cleaned on the inside prior to the transaction. Zero play in any direction.

And I already have a t3/t4 manifold and it bolts right up, the only thing with the manifold I have is it isn't twin scroll which I know isn't ideal, but I know I can at least run it for the time being until I can get a different one.

Here is what I picked up with very minimal wiping down by myself.

Clean unit, but post up the part number from the compressor cover- I don't believe yours is a 54mm compressor wheel...it's DEFINITELY not a Big H1C.

A few other things to note- that era of Holset was balanced as a rotating assembly so you're going to need the rotating assembly rebalanced regardless of whether you swap wheels or reinstall the same wheel assuming you didn't mark the nut, wheel, and shaft prior to disassembly. Also, I'm seeing a bit of oil carbon buildup on the heat shield behind the turbine in the third photo- I wouldn't run this turbo without rebuilding it. Lastly, this turbo will have either an 18cm2 or 21cm2 non-wastegated turbine housing which is WAY too big for a 4-cylinder 2.0 gasoline engine. Count on replacing it with a 12cm2 HX35 housing if you want to have any kind of reasonable spool.

Like I said, you're looking to spend some serious money on this thing and it still won't perform as good or be as reliable as a 7-blade HX35. It's all in what you want to do.

JusMX141 said:

Clean unit, but post up the part number from the compressor cover- I don't believe yours is a 54mm compressor wheel...it's DEFINITELY not a Big H1C.

A few other things to note- that era of Holset was balanced as a rotating assembly so you're going to need the rotating assembly rebalanced regardless of whether you swap wheels or reinstall the same wheel assuming you didn't mark the nut, wheel, and shaft prior to disassembly. Also, I'm seeing a bit of oil carbon buildup on the heat shield behind the turbine in the third photo- I wouldn't run this turbo without rebuilding it. Lastly, this turbo will have either an 18cm2 or 21cm2 non-wastegated turbine housing which is WAY too big for a 4-cylinder 2.0 gasoline engine. Count on replacing it with a 12cm2 HX35 housing if you want to have any kind of reasonable spool.

Like I said, you're looking to spend some serious money on this thing and it still won't perform as good or be as reliable as a 7-blade HX35. It's all in what you want to do.

Click to expand...

The compressor wheel, nut, and shaft are all marked for reassembly.

Although, I did not see this message until after I placed the wheel and backing plate on order. You are right, this isn't the big h1c, but that's why I was asking if it could be converted. It also has the 12cm2 housing already

Either way, parts are on their way, I'm still into it less than a bill so far, so if it doesn't work I'm sure I can put it back together and sell it to a honda guy...

I have faith, like I said I'm looking for something with a little more lag than my 16g, it just comes on too hard @20psi and only having fwd. If this turbo ended up around a 20g or little better I'd be fine, for only spending a few bucks on it.

What do you think of a gtx 35r wheel 62/88 6.5mm shaft hole

On an hx40 76/64 turbine? Pretty potent i think

Hx40 shaft is 7mm

Now to figure out a compressor cover that'd work...

Speaking of compressor covers, do with you know of anywhere or possibly have one yourself for the 54mm h1c? I got the backing plate and wheel last week. Now I just need the cover and the vband clamp for it. I got in touch with gpopturbo and they sourced me a brand new one, but it was $140 with no clamp.

urbansmoker1 said:

What do you think of a gtx 35r wheel 62/88 6.5mm shaft hole

On an hx40 76/64 turbine? Pretty potent i think

Hx40 shaft is 7mm

Now to figure out a compressor cover that'd work...

Click to expand...

Not too worried about it- I have bigger / better things on the horizon for late spring / early summer.

Breezio69 said:

Speaking of compressor covers, do with you know of anywhere or possibly have one yourself for the 54mm h1c? I got the backing plate and wheel last week. Now I just need the cover and the vband clamp for it. I got in touch with gpopturbo and they sourced me a brand new one, but it was $140 with no clamp.

Click to expand...

I do, but it's currently on a turbo. Individual transactions aren't something I can discuss publicly anyway.

JusMX141 said:

Not too worried about it- I have bigger / better things on the horizon for late spring / early summer.





I do, but it's currently on a turbo. Individual transactions aren't something I can discuss publicly anyway.

Click to expand...

Not for you and dave, for me . Or even an HTA 94? Or 86hta On a hx40? The hx40 turbine is damn close to the 37r turbine just a few mm smaller and as long as the GT shaft is smaller then 7mm hx40 shaft it is doable!

Hey Justin,

I currently have on my shelf a 8 blade HX35 with a .55 BEP housing. I only plan on running pump gas. I have a 2.3L and I'm looking for 450whp at least for a DD. I already have everything I need to make the HX35 bolt right on. I found a HY35 pretty cheap and I keep hearing good things about them. I will be tuning the car myself with ecuflash, and since I'm only running pump gas (93), I'm concerned with the high backpressures/knock happy BEP housing vs my WHP goal. Am I over thinking this or should I pull the trigger on the HY35?

Attached are pics of the HY35, that I wanted to verify. The only thing that makes me second guess is the turbo inlet doesn't have the outer groove. All the pictures I find of a HY35 have the outer map widening groove. Thoughts?

P.S. I obviously know the HY35 is a T3 and would need a different manifold/custom O2 housing, etc. I would sell the bolt on set up if the HY worked out better.

Thank you for your help!

There's a silencer ring installed in your turbo inlet that can be removed and would then reveal the groove you're referring to.

Definitely is a HY35; if you're looking for an easy 450whp I'd go for the HY35 over the HX35/BEP setup. The annoyance there is fabbing an o2 housing and finding a durable T3 manifold, but I promise it'll be worth your troubles.

The HY has already made 560hp/450tq with a 2.0 in a 2G DSM on pump gas and made 567whp/525tq with a 2.4 in an Evo VIII also on pump gas.

Awesome! Good to hear. I've been searching for a turbonetics t3 manifold and they are kinda hard to find. I found a dnp t3 manifold for $150 but I the only thing I read abou them with fitment is with a bullseye .70 t3 housing for a HX40, which is a lot larger than the HY housing correct?

kanusky1990 said:

Awesome! Good to hear. I've been searching for a turbonetics t3 manifold and they are kinda hard to find. I found a dnp t3 manifold for $150 but I the only thing I read about them with fitment is with a bullseye .70 t3 housing for a HX40, which is a lot larger than the HY housing correct?

Click to expand...

These are a copy of the turbonecits cast mani, nearly identical.
GSP DSM Eclipse 1g 2G Talon TSI galant 4g63 T3 T3T4 Cast Iron Turbo Manifold | eBay

pneumo said:

These are a copy of the turbonecits cast mani, nearly identical.
GSP DSM Eclipse 1g 2G Talon TSI galant 4g63 T3 T3T4 Cast Iron Turbo Manifold | eBay

Click to expand...

Thanks, I've seen those and definitely considered getting one, but I thought I read that the need a slight angle machined on the turbo flange for block clearance and that the bolt holes were 1/2" off on the turbo flange making the ports not line up. If that specific one has reviews showing that's not the case, I'll pick one right up since I like the idea of the cast vs tubular and the wastegate provision.

pneumo said:

These are a copy of the turbonecits cast mani, nearly identical.
GSP DSM Eclipse 1g 2G Talon TSI galant 4g63 T3 T3T4 Cast Iron Turbo Manifold | eBay

Click to expand...

The turbo flange angle is different on the knockoffs than on a Genuine Turbonetics manifold. Rather than risk fitment issues, it's better to go with a true Turbonetics model....I've yet to see an older Turbonetics manifold with any cracking, so they appear to hold up very well.

Would this housing fit directly on to the Hanh super 20g?

Kinugawa Mitsubishi 3" Anti Surge 20g Turbo Compressor Housing w 8 Bracket Hole | eBay

It would, but it's not going to add any noticeable power increase. In fact, the presence of surge porting may actually hurt peak airflow output a little.

Interesting. I have 2 Hanh 20gs, one came with a larger compressor housing and the other came with a slightly smaller one. I was thinking about just replacing the smaller one with this housing to try out. Now that I have 2 I can send you the one for rebuild.

Maybe this housing would be coupled best with the extended tip billet wheel then?

xxNocturnalxx said:

Interesting. I have 2 Hanh 20gs, one came with a larger compressor housing and the other came with a slightly smaller one.

Click to expand...

Then one's not a 20G, it's a Hahn Super 16G....unless someone machined the smaller cover for a 20G wheel.

xxNocturnalxx said:

Maybe this housing would be coupled best with the extended tip billet wheel then?

Click to expand...

Not really...unless you're having some severe surge issues, which probably isn't going to happen with a 10cm2 T3 turbine housing.

Hey Justin I have a question for you or anyone else that would like to chime in on the matter.

Just this past weekend I got the opportunity to work on and then drive a Evo 9.
When I first took off I instantly noticed the power differance between that stock turbo and my tdo5H Burscher 20g... lower spool time even though the turbo itself looked the same size if not a little bit bigger in size than my 20g (to the naked eye, not taking anything on it apart). My mods consist of evo pistons, evo crank, eagle rods, 272 cams, stock exhaust mani and 3" turbo back exhaust. the evo was mostly stock with a mild cam and tuned with evoscan making 390awhp.

My question being what can I do to my 2g to make it pick up and go like the evo does? better flowing mani than stock? different turbine housing? better head (ported)?

Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated,
-Ben

Twin-scroll 10.5cm2 turbine housing combined with MIVEC versus your 272's, unclipped turbine wheel, etc.

It's a physically-larger turbine housing volute which doesn't lose any spool because of twin-scroll technology. Not to mention the IX turbo's compressor wheel itself is smaller than a 20G, which also results in quicker spool.

The entire turbo setup is just more technologically-advanced than your old 20G, plain and simple.

JusMX141 said:

Twin-scroll 10.5cm2 turbine housing combined with MIVEC versus your 272's, unclipped turbine wheel, etc.

It's a physically-larger turbine housing volute which doesn't lose any spool because of twin-scroll technology. Not to mention the IX turbo's compressor wheel itself is smaller than a 20G, which also results in quicker spool.

The entire turbo setup is just more technologically-advanced than your old 20G, plain and simple.

Click to expand...

Any ideas on upgrade (or downgrade) to make that kind of power with a better spool? I'm around 400 and hes at 390. but i hit full boost at 3800 and hes seeing boost as little as 2300 rpm and then full boost at 3400.

Not unless you're willing to custom-fab a manifold, o2 housing, and all of the oil and coolant lines needed to get an Evo turbo as well as figuring out a way to install MIVEC on your car. Here's a hint- it's not going to be easy, and the payoff won't be too rewarding aside from the reduced spool.

JusMX141 said:

Not unless you're willing to custom-fab a manifold, o2 housing, and all of the oil and coolant lines needed to get an Evo turbo on your car. Here's a hint- it's not going to be easy.

Click to expand...

Oh I know it wouldn't be but at 20psi of boost would my tdo5h 20g have more lbs. per minute than a evo 9 TD05HRA-16G6C? I'm just looking for efficiant driving and my 20g hits HARD after about 7-8 psi, the evo was super smooth.