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switchyck

Probationary Member
5
0
Aug 11, 2013
Spencer, Massachusetts
I have a 95 gst. My turbo works but not well. It kicks back if I get on it too hard. I assume it's the seals dand its not holding pressure like it should. Is it worth rebuilding the turbo or replacing it? What are some suitable replacements for it. It's stock Garrett t25.
 
No mods. When I accelerate hard and bring the boost up it spools but then knocks or kicks. It's definitely the turbo it only happens when the boost pressure is high. Not sure how much it's actually running but the specs for stock say 6.4-14.7. I would imagine it's in that range. If I don't accelerate hard it runs smooth. I can check the actual boost pressure Thursday to see if it's high or low. The kick back kind of feels like hitting the rev limiter when you top out a car but it will happen multiple times in a short time period and only while accelerating.
 
Replace your fuel filter and see if that helps. When your turbo goes, you will, most likely, not see any boost. Also, check the vacuum line from the wastegate to the Boost Control solenoid. Either you are getting fuel cut due to poor flow, or you are getting fuel cut due to over-boosting.
 
Any check engine lights? I would start with a boost leak test. Verifying boost pressure would be good, but it sounds like a typical boost leak.

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T963989F3c0]How to do a boost leak test - YouTube[/ame]
 
I have a 95 gst. My turbo works but not well. It kicks back if I get on it too hard. I assume it's the seals dand its not holding pressure like it should. Is it worth rebuilding the turbo or replacing it? What are some suitable replacements for it. It's stock Garrett t25.
You have a boost leak somewhere in the charge piping- your turbo is likely fine.
 
I fuel filter is maybe 6 months old I had starting problems earlier with that. I will pressure test the boost and see what happens and then see if I can find a leak
 
Will pressure testing the boost help me find out if it is a leak? If not how do I go about finding a leak?
 
Fuel cut? Not likely.... At all.
I second a boost leak..

Wouldn't a boost leak cause fuel cut? Or some fuel flow interference because of the unmonitored air?
 
When's the last time you had a tune up?

My GST did the same thing, it's not like hitting a wall(fuel cut) but while it's under boost the car seems to hesitate or pull back a bit. A lot of things can cause this, boost leak is common, but sometimes spark plug wires or cool pack can be the issue too.

I replaced my wires and plugs and it fixed my problem. It can be mistaken for "fuel cut"...
 
When's the last time you had a tune up?

My GST did the same thing, it's not like hitting a wall(fuel cut) but while it's under boost the car seems to hesitate or pull back a bit. A lot of things can cause this, boost leak is common, but sometimes spark plug wires or cool pack can be the issue too.

I replaced my wires and plugs and it fixed my problem. It can be mistaken for "fuel cut"...

You are describing spark blow out. While it does have similar symptoms, its very different, and you can tell when one plug doesn't get a signal, or when the ecu pulls the fuel to all 4 cylinders... big difference.

Op, before you drop any money buying replacement parts when you dont even know if they are bad or not, do a boost leak test like the video. There is also a different style blt tester than the one in the vid, it uses a shrader valve (bicycle, automotive valve stem) and you can charge the pipe then listen for leaks. Where in that video it kept constant pressure in the system. Either will work, if you don't have a compressor for the video style you can use the other at a gas station with an air source, that's the benefit of the shrader style.
 
You are describing spark blow out. While it does have similar symptoms, its very different, and you can tell when one plug doesn't get a signal, or when the ecu pulls the fuel to all 4 cylinders... big difference.

Op, before you drop any money buying replacement parts when you dont even know if they are bad or not, do a boost leak test like the video. There is also a different style blt tester than the one in the vid, it uses a shrader valve (bicycle, automotive valve stem) and you can charge the pipe then listen for leaks. Where in that video it kept constant pressure in the system. Either will work, if you don't have a compressor for the video style you can use the other at a gas station with an air source, that's the benefit of the shrader style.

Well from experience, hitting a fuel cut is like literally hitting a wall, you lose power since the ECU pulls fuel from all injectors. Like you said.

What he's describing is "kicks" "rev limiter" feeling...

I may be wrong...a tune up wouldn't hurt wires and plugs beat replacin a turbo...

Boost leak test is a must and so far the cheapest route to solve this problem.

I would replace the injector O seals...heard that's a common boost leak.
 
I just changed my plugs more recently than my fuel filter. Wires are fine.
 
You can go with the "small"16g turbo from the 1g talon/eclipse, or the "big"16g from the EVO III if you wanna go the economical route.
 
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