This is a header attempt for my awd colt, I am building it, in an attempt to increase my fabrication abilities and TIG welding. I am a novice TIG welder, and am learning some of the key points of fabrication

So here we go
I am building a small fixture so that I can work on it , without a car present


and without the stock manifold in place: A pretty simple start.


all the accessories for my first tubular manifold for the colt... merge collector, flanges, weld els, tubing etc etc
a shot of the collector


and my son and I figuring out how to put this puzzle together


and a couple of shots of the colt in this frigid time of the year




Tubular Header Fabrication Attempt

Key notes :
1) Stainless flanges
2) 1.5" Tubing
3)Runner length 28 inch
4) Stock dsm turbo locations
5) Head flange to radiator 9 inches
6) flange to timing belt 3 inches
7) height limit 6 inches from top of flange
8- No provision for dipstick ( will be removed)

One of the challenging things for me in regards to this manifold, is the proximity of the turbine inlet to exhaust port of runner number 3. With that being said , I had to get creative with the location of collector in regards to that specific runner. Inorder to try and accomplish this, I had to pie cut the entry to the turbine housing, as the picture below illustrates. Keep in mind that I was also trying to ensure that I can get to the bolts and nuts to attach the manifold to the turbo , as well as the cylinder head.



Once I had this portion oriented how I wanted, I began to construct Runner #4 as it would be the longest one in the manifold, and where I need to get a given length. A shot showing the collector , runner number 4 complete, and the start of runner number 3


here is front shot, showing how far down runner 4 goes down, also I hope I have enough clearance for the wastegate that is off the turbine housing.


top view


side view


Runner 1 and 2 are going to "side wind " past the timing belt area inorder to attain that 28 inch runner length

Finished up runner #3 , I like the way it turned out.. I basically tried to make it follow the path of runner #4 , while trying to attain 28 inches of length


Next I planned my attack on #2 and number #, these are just the start of them, so they are not completed yet



a view from the rear, looks like a convoluted mess..


and now some over all shots to kind of show you what it looks like as a whole




this is alot of fun.. I won't be making another one again.. it is quite labor intensive. But I suppose everyone needs a hobby,

Critique, Laugh, re-engineer, enjoy etc

more to come on this project
warren

Wow that will look really cool!

^^^ I agree. I would love to take on a project like this some day.

I need to learn how to weld to do this!! This looks like alot more fun than it probably is.

Very interesting design. Looking forward to seeing results!

Very nice work so far.

thanks for the kind words folks, it is definitely a lot of fun to build, like a giant 3d puzzle

p.s this is the engine bay shot ( with the old 18g)


and an engine shot with the 3065 and evo 3 ported manifold

Worked on the manifold a little more today

Here are some shots of runner number 2 finished up




Number 1 was the easiest to build, but it had its challenges too... Anyway I have finished the manifold so lets go In order

TOP VIEW


Front view ( if you were standing infront of car)




Side View ( from timing belt side)


Side View ( 45 degree top view from timing belt side)


rear view 45 degree from timing belt side


full rear view ( from behind engine)


now who wants to weld this pig up, as its going to be challenging

enjoy

Yes it is gonna be challenging. I dont think you can man. Not unless you disconnect each runner and weld individually. Then connect them to the collector the design and cuts are great. But you really can't weld 360* like that

I'm wondering how he's going to weld that now >.>

I could weld it

I'm surprised after all this it's still dsm flange

Its obvious the manifold is going to be weld in pieces. That is how the majority of custom manifold are made. Besides there is nothing wrong with the mitsu flange. The fp30 housing is pretty much the same size as the bep t3 housing and flows great.

Im more interested in the runner design/stock placement you chose vs something more simple and straight forward. I would think the larger diameter pipe and tight radius bends would actually reduce exhaust velocity.

It doesnt look like it was thought out to come out in oieces. He tack welded the shit out of it z

And with a t3 housing he would have a choice of .82, .85, etc

here is what i would do, if it were me...

I would do it in halves, take a spot on each pipe in the middle, the easiest joint to get around, and cut the manifold in half at each middle joint. Then weld the collector side up and the flange side, bolt it back together with your jig and weld the 4 outside tubes together. It can be done, just think a little outside the box from the traditional way

You may also need to remove the half a runner from the flange side to weld em, but it should be ok, just a little more work.

urbansmoker1 said:

It doesnt look like it was thought out to come out in oieces. He tack welded the shit out of it z

And with a t3 housing he would have a choice of .82, .85, etc

Click to expand...

You need a good amount to tacks because of how intricate his design is with how much stainless warps. You should know that being a welder...

The fp30 housing is more then sufficent. That turbo will easily make over 600hp and larger housings would only be needed for max effort car wanting low drive pressures.

The fp30(.68) is basically the same size as the bep .70(.82 and .85 the same too) has hx40 which has no problems with back pressure and is a slightly larger turbo.

The only thing with mitsu based turbos is the limited selection of turbos vs the universal t3, t4, or t6 turbos.

Any ways, back on topic. Do you plan on coating/wrapping the manifold? I see a lot of heat escaping and cooling of the exhaust gasses which reduces velocity. Heat is energy and you want to keep that all in.

Yeah you need a good amount of tacka when you are ready to make your passes but if you had planned to remove each runner to make your passes on you would habe only wanted two tacks at the seperation points. Or else your grinding your tacks out and that effs up your bevel.

It looks like there is 4-6 on each joint.

You may want to go count again. I see about two per in the picture and since I was there during some of the construction I will tell you I watched Warren tack 2 per joint.

Theres definately 3-4 in almost each spot in the last picture but I'll let op chime in. You can't see the 360* pipe to know whats on the other side.

This header is crazy as hell in an awesome way.

thanks for the comments guys, I appreciate them

Urban, nice welds . I did think about how I was going to weld it up and could only summarize it as being a bi*** to weld. I typically only put two spot welds per joint, there are only a few that have multiple tacks on it. I intend to break stuff away ( sections of the manifold and weld it up). If I can not reach a given section, I will window the tube - not ideal but thats my only option.

Lasthope05... Reason why I left the stock flange and location on here, is because it Ups the level of difficulty for me during the construction of the manifold. I have never built a manifold, and thus wanted to challenge myself to make something unique and complicated. I feel that the FP housing is more than adequate for the goals of this car. The Vehicle has already run 11.8s at 120 mph on an 18g with ethanol, So I feel this header in conjunction with the 3065 should up the anty a little.
My intent with the manifold, was to build a long tube header for the 3065-- The runners are about 27 inchs on average for each tube. It is an open scroll design. Yes I intend to get it coated, I personally love the stuff that Full-race does (I have one of their manifolds on my other car), the black ceramic coating, has held up exceptionally well in that application). I think this header would look really nice in Grey or even Graphite color coating.

Thanks for the advice breezio, I will take some of your suggestions, At this rate, I will have to come up with a critical path analysis to determine the sequencing of each joint weld. Should be fun .

This is giving me all sorts of ideas for when I make my twin scroll T4. That is one thick flange that bolts up to the head Good luck welding this beast together =D

I think it's two flanges, one to simulate the head to bolt on to, to keep the manifold flange from warping. Thats what it looks like to me unless it's a spacer.

Warren, did you consider a smaller diameter tube? I know it's too late now, but I'm thinking 1.25" would be a better fit with such a long primary and small turbo.

How close are they all to matching in length (min/max)?
Those treadstone flanges are nice. I used one with the last manifold that I built. I'll probably become my go-to head flange.

Twinturbo120 said:

This is giving me all sorts of ideas for when I make my twin scroll T4. That is one thick flange that bolts up to the head Good luck welding this beast together =D

Click to expand...

You're seeing the manifold's flange bolted up to the fixture.

The FP housing will be more than sufficient! I don't think people really give the FP housing its due credit. Shoot, my car is going high 9s with FP's exhaust manifold, turbine housing, and the same FP3065 being used here. I've been 9.9, English Racing has been 9.6, and Curt Brown has been 9.4, all using the FP turbine housing on an FP3065. Looks great Warren!

The STM flange looks similar, only it's CNC not cast