That is an ebay clutch. It's the XTD Stage 3.

gieri002 said:

That is an ebay clutch. It's the XTD Stage 3.

Click to expand...

Good call! Looks like the PO had the clutch installed as well as a cheap throw out bearing. The one we pulled out was not an OEM unit and was cracked/broken badly.



UPDATE: 1/26/2104

Ordered some Black Prothane motor mount insert as well. My stock ones are looking pitiful.

UPDATE: 2/3/2014

Here's a picture of the TOB and fork that I pulled out. The fork had a broken clip and the TOB is not an OEM unit. You can see the cracking.



Black motor mount inserts are in! Going to be assembling them in my removed mounts any day now.

I also took some time and cleaned up and painted my modded 1g BOV. Sprayed the top to match the car color. I also stripped my IC piping. It was painted black, but is now back to its aluminum color.

UPDATE: 2/13/2014

Not to much has changed since the last update. I've been VERY busy with life and the cold hasn't helped.

As of last month, i'm now the new SOLO Chair for our local SCCA region. Currenty finalizing our schedule for the season. Very excited and looking forward to getting back out on the track.


Wendy currently has a 16g cold side on her. As I was having some trouble with the 20g cold side bolting up. Once I get the tranny back in, i'm going to look more into this.

This Saturday, my buddy Justin and I are going to attempt to throw the tranny back in Wendy with all the new components. After that, I plan on doing a lot of cleaning, bolting her all back together and getting her ready for the spring.

Still on the hunt for a nice set of 17x9 +35(ish).

Will def get some pictures up after this weekend.

UPDATE: 2/16/2014

Lots got done this weekend. Big thanks to my buddies Justin and Justin. New clutch, PP, TOB and Fork are all in. And we got the tranny in! Got eveything all bolted up, and put on some finishing touches. Now I need to order some Tranny Fluid, a new driver side axle and hub.



The driver side axle boot was trashed! Not only that, but we could not get the axle nut to thread. So I decided it was time to replace everything. After a BFH, some PB Blaster and a little elbow grease, I got the hub out.

Now my biggest issue is getting the axle and hub out of the car. This could be interesting as the axle is seized in the hub.



Now that the tranny is back in, I wanted to get some other things done. I removed the Throttle Body for a good cleaning, new gaskets and a new BISS screw & o-ring.





And......After some grinding and text fitting, the 20g is in!!! This should be fun.





Once the trottle body was all done, I put some of the IC piping back in. As well as the coolant overflow tank, and the radiator fan. Still a plethora of colors, which will be changed once she is running good and tuned.

Had a custom Spark Plug cover done. I think it came out great.

UPDATE: 2/18/2014

Picked up a good used Drivers side axle w/nut and no ripped boots for $60 from Miller Import Parts (MIP). I highly recommend you contact MIP for any of your needs. The guy has TONS of DSMs on his lot and his prices are always spot on.

Also order a new hub for that side. Now all I need to do is get the old out and get the new in!

She's coming together!

Getting close ..

Pipnorcali said:

Getting close ..

Click to expand...

You know it! The day I go to start her is going to be glorious. I already have a cigar and some Honey Whiskey picked out for the day.

UPDATE: 3/3/2014

Back from a vacation with the future wifeys family. Going from the Caribbean to 1 degree here in Erie wasnt fun!

New hub is in, axle is in. Now I just need to find some time and get the old out. Once this is done, I will be doing a first start for this season.

Also, I found a set of wheels 17x9 +27 in Gun Metal, in a style I like. Haven't pulled the trigger yet, but I will at some point.

More to come!

UPDATE: 3/10/2014

Go some work done over the weekend.

Installed/Completed:
- Intake system
- Filled with coolant
- Hood damper kit
- Custom Engine bay work light (turned out really nice actually)

On the list:
- Remove stock hub/axle (going to be interesting)
- Seafoam & Oil Change (once she is running)
- Set Up Idle tune
- Set Up base Cruise tune
- Fill tranny with fluid (Red-line MT90 ordered)
- Buy some DAMN wheels for my AX tires. Buy some damn tires for my DD wheels.
- Wire WideBand to the ECU
- Turbo oil return
- Bolt up Exhaust
- Lower IC piping
- External Waste Gate & Dump routing



Snapped a few pictures. Ill have plenty more in a day or two.

UPDATE: 3/21/2014

With some help from Justin (99ECLIPSEGSXDSM) and my buddy Matt, we busted the old axle and hub out! Nothing like a little ingenuity and a cut off wheel.

So we got the old out. Cleaned everything up, I have the new axle in, haven't yet bolted up the hub though, just ran out of time, and I wanted to watch Top Gear.


I had a few questions.

We have tightened the upper ball joints and they both have the same amount of play. They were absolutely fine before unbolting them. Am I missing something or did I ruin both sides when removing the axles?

Also, I have ordered/received my Redline MT90 fluid. However, I am worried about a possible leak at the driver side axle seal. I have some new/unused, just older, gear fluid from my GT4. I was wondering if I could fill her up with that, check for leaks, fix, then drain and use my good MT90 stuff. I just hate to waste it if there is a leak.
You should know that while the older gear fluid is in the tranny it will NOT be driven, only started and idled and moved through the gears.

Ill also be upgrading my brakes, upon removing the driver side axle I found my pads to be near GONE! I already have some StopTech Pads. My rotors look to be in very good condition, but I will be upgrading those as well since I am going to be running the Mitsubishi Outlander brackets with a bigger rotor.

Tuning:
Here are my thoughts about a first start and idle tune. I'm going to leave the fuel system completely stock. I want to set up DSMlink with a good idle tune, once that happens and I have some solid numbers, Ill upgrade the pump, FPR and install my injectors.
My thoughts are to get a good base tune setup, then install the fuel upgrades and make the simple changes, instead of throwing all the new parts on and figuring it out. During this time, the car would see no boost, and would only be driven around the block to make sure our tranny/clutch install went well.

ANY input is greatly appreciated, as im very excited to start tuning my car. I have been watching a lot of the ECMlink videos and How To's.


Will be taking a ton of pictures and posted them up this evening.

UPDATE: 3/22/2014

Got some pictures for you guys.

Badly worn our brake pads on the driver side. The rotor has a lot of life left.



The old hub/axle assembly. Finally out and trashed.



The new hottness!



In my previous post, I mentioned have some unused/new gear oil. I wanted to fill my tranny with this, check for leaks, and kinda use it as a flush.
Any thoughts?



ALSO, in my previous post I mentioned both my upper ball joints where loose. To the best of my knowledge they were fine before the tranny drop and clutch install. This video will show you the play/movement on both sides.




More to come!

UPDATE: 3/25/2014

I removed my Valve Cover and -12an line Setup - opted for a brushed VC. I'm going to clean it up a bit more. I plan on selling the old setup to fund some more parts I need to finish her up.



I also started a fuse box relocation. Nothing crazy, just want to make more room for an air box. Also removed the cruise control line. Haven't done the non-cruise cable install yet.

Pictures aren't the greatest, and she needs a really good engine bay cleaning.

Put together a small video of some runs from an out of region event last year in WNY.

Enjoy!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AkgTCZ8T8to

UPDATE: 3/31/2014

First start is going to happen very soon!

After work Friday I put some wrenching time in. I got the exhaust bolted back up, the non-cruise throttle cable installed, the carrier bearing bolted in, and the turbo oil return line gasketed and installed.

Fiance snapped a pic.





Things to do before first start:
- Fill with tranny fluid
- Wire in WB gauge to ECU
- Lower IC piping
- BLT
- Setup Base Start Tune

Things to do do before first drive:
- Retighten & check all Suspension bolts
- Buy Intake Filter
- New Upper Ball Joints (both sides)
- Seafoam & Oil Change
- Bolt down Fuse Box
- Setup O2 Dump tube

On the near future To Do List: (no particular order besides the obvious)
- Build Cold Air Box
- Build Exhaust Manifold Heat Shield
- Reset Coil-Overs
- Dial in Cruise Tune
- Install 750 Injectors
- Install Fuel Pump
- Dial in my WOT tune.

Nice build. That light bar fixed to your hood?

952g63t said:

Nice build. That light bar fixed to your hood?

Click to expand...

Thanks man!

It is actually. I work for an LED company, grabbed some spare LED strips and mounted up a engine bay light. Actually works REALLY well. I was having trouble finding a good way to light up the whole bay when working. I used to hang a shop light, but it would get in the way and not always shine where needed.

I have the wiring run through the hood, its not the cleanest look, but it does the job and they are barely seen when off. I have it wired into the fuse box currently.

At some point I plan on using the stock hood open indicator as the light switch.

UPDATE: 4/9/2014

Well, Justin and I finally got the tranny filled, wired in the wideband so the ECU could log it, buttoned her up and did a first start!!

I primed her a few times of course, and finally she fired up and sounded good. Then idle dropped and she sputtered to a stall out.

See my DSMlink thread here:
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/ecm...st-start-w-dsmlink-idles-then-stalls-out.html

Overall im very happy at this point. She sounded real good. Now to figure out this stalling issue.

Hey Aaron,

Glad to see you are enjoying the autocross scene, I know it's a drive but feel free to join me in the DC region, I'm always the ONLY DSM representing how well our cars can compete against late model Mustangs!

Quick question, why were you running in SM on the 14b setup?! The only thing I saw that took you out of the ESP class was the modified -AN fitting on the valve cover. Now that you have upgraded your turbo setup, are you planning on doing ALL the mods that are allowed in SM?

I love racing in ESP class as the 14b is the ideal autocross turbo (virtually no limit to PSI, and virtually no lag) and ESP is easier on the wallet.

Xploitn said:

Hey Aaron,

Glad to see you are enjoying the autocross scene, I know it's a drive but feel free to join me in the DC region, I'm always the ONLY DSM representing how well our cars can compete against late model Mustangs!

Quick question, why were you running in SM on the 14b setup?! The only thing I saw that took you out of the ESP class was the modified -AN fitting on the valve cover. Now that you have upgraded your turbo setup, are you planning on doing ALL the mods that are allowed in SM?

I love racing in ESP class as the 14b is the ideal autocross turbo (virtually no limit to PSI, and virtually no lag) and ESP is easier on the wallet.

Click to expand...

We actually have a few members that run out to the DC region. I'm sure one day ill make a trip!

I had to run SM on the 14b setup because any turbo that is not stock bumps you instantly to SM. Even if the 14b is an older model, its still not a stock unit and bumps you. If you want to get really technical, I should actually be running XP, due to not having my front bumper support installed.


To understand my build better, you have to realize that most die hard SCCA guys will build their car to a specific class in order to be as competitive as possible. I, while a die hard SCCA guy and the SOLO Chairman for our region this year, am building my car to my liking, and then just running SCCA to have fun and to better my own skills.

Car looks good, I'm from around your neck of the woods, just bought a 90 laser rs turbo ready to start building. Can't wait. Good luck

GofaST4life said:

We actually have a few members that run out to the DC region. I'm sure one day ill make a trip!

I had to run SM on the 14b setup because any turbo that is not stock bumps you instantly to SM. Even if the 14b is an older model, its still not a stock unit and bumps you. If you want to get really technical, I should actually be running XP, due to not having my front bumper support installed.


To understand my build better, you have to realize that most die hard SCCA guys will build their car to a specific class in order to be as competitive as possible. I, while a die hard SCCA guy and the SOLO Chairman for our region this year, am building my car to my liking, and then just running SCCA to have fun and to better my own skills.

Click to expand...

I'd love to see some DSMs come down!

A stock 14b is a legal swap for 2gs in ESP. (You can backdate with parts from cars on line same line in the Appendix: "90-99 Mitsubishi Eclipse Turbo") I know yours was rebuilt, but I couldn't tell if that was a stock rebuild or upgraded.

Makes sense to have fun with the car. Period. There are some stuff that I'd like to do but would push me out of my class and don't offer enough performance (read: enjoyment) for me to pull the trigger.

The 20g is NOT a minor mod though so I understand! Happy DSM'ing!

UPDATE: 4/21/2014

Well, after a lot of headache and diagnosing, see threads below, if you would like. In a nut shell the mis-placed TB gasket caused a major boost leak so the car would lean out and stall everytime. This had me running in circles...but im glad thats over with.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/tun...roblem-o2-problem-wiring-leaned-out-idle.html

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/ecm...st-start-w-dsmlink-idles-then-stalls-out.html

I currently have a 14b on the car. She is idling/running great!

List of things to do:
- Replace Upper Control arms (parts ordered)
- Re-torque suspension parts.
- Another boost leak test
- Set DSMlink back up
- Put some tires on my DD wheels.
- Fab up wastgate dump tube
- Seafoam & Oil change
- Front Brake upgrade (have parts)


I'm going to set the car up in its stock form, stock fuel system, 14b, etc. Tune her to the best of my abilities, then throw in the bigger pump, injectors and the 20g.

Adam Wawrzyniak said:

Car looks good, I'm from around your neck of the woods, just bought a 90 laser rs turbo ready to start building. Can't wait. Good luck

Click to expand...

Thanks man! Same goes to you.

UPDATE: 4/25/14

Buttoned up some things last night.

The new upper control arms are in! Reset the coil over height up front, also installed new Stop Tech brake pads up front. I will do the rears when I switch out the wheels.

WHEELS! I finally found a set of wheels that I liked at a great price! 17x9 +35 offset. I will get pictures up once they arrive. They are a matte black color and 10 spoke. I think they are going to look really good with my Star Specs.



Here she is, no longer jack stand balling!




Weekend plans consist of pulling her out of the garage and letting her run for a while. I want to monitor for leaks and what not.

I also plan on doing some nice garage cleaning as the winter cluttered it all up with stuff.

Long winter tear down and build and I'm glad to she's about to roll out of the garage. Good work