PrimerPLus said:

Just another tip.
The fluidampr is slightly larger in diameter than stock and so you will need a larger alternator belt to fit it.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/433189-gates-blue-belts-fluidampr.html

Post #9 tells size difference

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a link to the part number would be better

Awww bummer. Well good luck on the tear down.

I dont see how you could need a longer belt when you can loosen tension as much as you can. I dont see me having a problem.

urbansmoker1 said:

So straight up swap?

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Our motors are internally balanced so it's installed straight up.

stock made 611hp here on a 2.4 no balance shafts. would like to get a fluid but stock will work

dsmreck said:

stock made 611hp here on a 2.4 no balance shafts. would like to get a fluid but stock will work

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Thats what i was sayin, then i got paranoid.



Their kinda heavy huh?

I would rather a few extra pounds then an over heated motor any-day.
plus you gain dependability especially if you are running higher hp/torque

just thought id add some other info I remember about these pulleys here.

I recall some of the early designs of this pulley had the timing marks on the wrong side, so be sure and match it up to your old unit before you bolt it on.
if you have any problems... like the above issue call the company,and see if they can help... or if you don't have the time, patch the wrong mark up, then make a new notch in the pulley.

Did people really have to shave timing cover for this?

There still seems to be a good deal of confusion on what this piece of hardware is for. Please take some time to go through these:
http://www.epi-eng.com/piston_engine_technology/crankshaft_torsional_absorbers.htm

http://www.bhjdynamics.com/downloads/pdf/tech/BHJDynamics_Damper_Info.pdf

That should help clarify a few things.

mitsubishikid said:

I would rather a few extra pounds then an over heated motor any-day.
plus you gain dependability especially if you are running higher hp/torque

just thought id add some other info I remember about these pulleys here.

I recall some of the early designs of this pulley had the timing marks on the wrong side, so be sure and match it up to your old unit before you bolt it on.
if you have any problems... like the above issue call the company,and see if they can help... or if you don't have the time, patch the wrong mark up, then make a new notch in the pulley.

Click to expand...

Two things:
1.) How do you figure the engine will overheat from the Torsional Absorber? ("harmonic dampener")

2.) To the extent I am aware.. the original problem with the Fluidampr unit (I run the revised/new version) was that the hub was too thick for the recommended fasteners. This has since been remedied.

Did you have to ahave your timing cover? Mine is obviously the new version .

I just got one like 6 months ago and it fit fine. Didn't rub the cover and I didn't have to buy any different belts. Yeah I was surprised how heavy it was .

Two things:
1.) How do you figure the engine will overheat from the Torsional Absorber? ("harmonic dampener")

when an oem crank pulley splits clean off the base, what happens to the drive belt that runs the water pump...well it could slip off, or simply fall off...
hence an overheated motor[ see picture in link below]
https://www.google.com/url?sa=i&rct...9qdt7RLLpfiRa_ZXA2OWq0tQ&ust=1389924433205964

2.) To the extent I am aware.. the original problem with the Fluidampr unit (I run the revised/new version) was that the hub was too thick for the recommended fasteners. This has since been remedied.[/QUOTE]

Vary true... but to be safe, my advice still holds true, you should double check your fluidampr pulley to your old oem unit, and make sure all is in order before you bolt it in, and even more so if you buy it used or it is an early version... you never know.

Mines arrived and damn! they are heavy XD

Ha took long enough

NHerron said:

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/bolt-tech/374411-attention-all-fluidampr-users.html

Stock bolts aren't long enough when upgrading it seems.

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I made the message at the top of the page larger so that it wouldn't be missed.

urbansmoker1 said:

Did people really have to shave timing cover for this?

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I didn't have to modify my 2G timing cover at all to run the Fluidampr.

I have to check the length of the bolts, not feeling to order and wait for ARP, so i think some grade 8 can do the job

99gst_racer said:

I made the message at the top of the page larger so that it wouldn't be missed.





I didn't have to modify my 2G timing cover at all to run the Fluidampr.

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How about a bout 6bolt cover I'm a 6bolt with 2g head.

YoYo_4G63 said:

I have to check the length of the bolts, not feeling to order and wait for ARP, so i think some grade 8 can do the job

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Any Fluidampr made in the past couple years will work with the OE bolt length. Just measure the hub thickness. Old ones were ~17mm, new ones are ~10mm. The OE bolts work fine with a 10mm hub.

urbansmoker1 said:

How about a bout 6bolt cover

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I wouldn't know. I seriosuly doubt you need to trim anything though.

Easy way to find out. Install it and see.

It's 0*F f that!

And my garage sadly is just as cold as outside .

A friend of mine had the rubber deteriorate and caused some problems. If you are on a tight budget you could consider an aluminum replacement for cheap? However I am unsure of vibration or unbalanced effects...

99gst_racer said:

Any Fluidampr made in the past couple years will work with the OE bolt length. Just measure the hub thickness. Old ones were ~17mm, new ones are ~10mm. The OE bolts work fine with a 10mm hub.

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thanks

urbansmoker1 said:

It's 0*F f that!

And my garage sadly is just as cold as outside .

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Here 90° , btw i put the one i have and doesn't rub with the cover

^f you island boy.

(I'm from a cold island near seattle)

You have the 6bolt? Good to know it was straight up install.

urbansmoker1 said:

It's 0*F f that!

And my garage sadly is just as cold as outside .

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i can imagine, i removed mine and replaced it back on to look around and make sure timing belt was good and marks all lined up today, and i live in FL were is has gotten below freezing if you can believe that,

To add, yes this thing is heavy, mines was ordered from ExtremePsI (2 months ago), and did not require longer bolt. I also like how the white marks are very visible compared to my experience with oem ones.
it does rub just a lill against my 6 bolt timing cover, but did not require any trimming, it's pretty straight forward.

I'd imagine your timing marks would line up since your not touching the timing belt, but make sire to re check your base timing with the light!

urbansmoker1 said:

I'd imagine your timing marks would line up since your not touching the timing belt, but make sire to re check your base timing with the light!

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Me right
if so, i was just down there to check my tensioner, and timing marks, since i rebuilt my head recently, due to previous tensioner failure. But all is good now, and will use timing light tomorrow>then tuning - Thanks,

Anybody else have their balancer show up with black magic marker marks on it? I know it's being picky but I'm not that happy to have been shipped one that looks like it was scratched up and covered in permenant marker.