Araesk
Proven Member
- 188
- 1
- Jul 10, 2013
-
Muskego,
Wisconsin
Okay so after that first cluster f*** of a post I decided to revise it, make it chronological, and a lot more clear. I apologize to those of you who tried to understand me first message. Anywho here is a recap of what I have done on my car recently over winter and where I started noticing problems.
1) I installed a Begi 2035 Rising Rates FPR and a wally 255 onto my car. (The RRFPR is set to rise as slowly as possible, which should end up being 1:1 IDEALLY.) I took the car out for a spin after installing both of these, and the car ran just fine. (Pic to the vacuum lines for the FPR: http://imgur.com/X5v4OOc)
2) I installed a new wideband innovate wideband o2 sensor. I was curious if the car would drive w/o there being a front o2 sensor, so i started it up without it. The car ran fine as close loop, but once it warmed up and got into open loop it started to run really boggy. It got to the point where I came back outside and I heard the car chugging (the engine was still turning over and firing, but the tachometer read 0 RPM's). I just ignored it and figured the lack of an o2 sensor was the problem. (Note: at this point I had disconnected the ECU and even finished wiring in the wideband, I just had no O2 sensor plugged into it). After I installed the wideband I let the car run again, and it ran just fine. I even let it run for prolonged periods of time so it would definitely be open loop, and I had no problem. I rev'd the engine and watched the A/R gauge, and at about 4k RPM's i was reading high 9's as my AFR.
Now here comes the problem, I took the car out last night for a drive. The car ran beautifully and was shifting like brand new (thanks to a 3 hour job installing skateboard bearings into the base of the shifter cables as bushings). I wasn't letting the car spool at all just to make sure it was running fine. I go ahead and take it out onto the main road to open the throttle up, and the second my car reaches boost, the car immediately starts running boggy and sputtering again like it was after I had no front O2 sensor in. I inspect my car and notice the excess fuel line from my fuel rail to FPR is rubbing against the accessory belt located behind the engine. The fuel line wasn't leaking, it just has a little wear (http://imgur.com/7yS27Xd) in it now from where it was rubbing. I was wondering if that could possibly had somehow yanked the timing off a mark if it got a little to snug (the timing belt is still intact and no obvious signs of damage, will check timing marks Wednesday when i have time).
The other thing I was wondering is that could this all just be from a bad ground? Since my battery's negative to chassis wire is severed on one end so only about 1/5 of the wires are actually still connected (will take a multimeter and check the voltages from battery pos. to neg. and then from battery pos. to chassis and see how they compare.
1) I installed a Begi 2035 Rising Rates FPR and a wally 255 onto my car. (The RRFPR is set to rise as slowly as possible, which should end up being 1:1 IDEALLY.) I took the car out for a spin after installing both of these, and the car ran just fine. (Pic to the vacuum lines for the FPR: http://imgur.com/X5v4OOc)
2) I installed a new wideband innovate wideband o2 sensor. I was curious if the car would drive w/o there being a front o2 sensor, so i started it up without it. The car ran fine as close loop, but once it warmed up and got into open loop it started to run really boggy. It got to the point where I came back outside and I heard the car chugging (the engine was still turning over and firing, but the tachometer read 0 RPM's). I just ignored it and figured the lack of an o2 sensor was the problem. (Note: at this point I had disconnected the ECU and even finished wiring in the wideband, I just had no O2 sensor plugged into it). After I installed the wideband I let the car run again, and it ran just fine. I even let it run for prolonged periods of time so it would definitely be open loop, and I had no problem. I rev'd the engine and watched the A/R gauge, and at about 4k RPM's i was reading high 9's as my AFR.
Now here comes the problem, I took the car out last night for a drive. The car ran beautifully and was shifting like brand new (thanks to a 3 hour job installing skateboard bearings into the base of the shifter cables as bushings). I wasn't letting the car spool at all just to make sure it was running fine. I go ahead and take it out onto the main road to open the throttle up, and the second my car reaches boost, the car immediately starts running boggy and sputtering again like it was after I had no front O2 sensor in. I inspect my car and notice the excess fuel line from my fuel rail to FPR is rubbing against the accessory belt located behind the engine. The fuel line wasn't leaking, it just has a little wear (http://imgur.com/7yS27Xd) in it now from where it was rubbing. I was wondering if that could possibly had somehow yanked the timing off a mark if it got a little to snug (the timing belt is still intact and no obvious signs of damage, will check timing marks Wednesday when i have time).
The other thing I was wondering is that could this all just be from a bad ground? Since my battery's negative to chassis wire is severed on one end so only about 1/5 of the wires are actually still connected (will take a multimeter and check the voltages from battery pos. to neg. and then from battery pos. to chassis and see how they compare.
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