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NO DSM knowledge, buying 98 GSX

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Enjoi577

Proven Member
78
0
Jan 15, 2014
Peoria, Illinois
Hi guys, very new to this site and forums in general (just found maybe a week or two ago), but am motivated by the responsiveness and willingness/eager to help newbs:D. This is probably going to be a rather long post, so read at your own will!

Iv done as much research as I can on what to look for when buying a used GSX, but I have a few questions.

I'm buying a 1998 GSX with 95,XXX miles. Owner says it hasn't been beat on (after several conversations/questions, I believe him), and I'm going to check out the car for the first time tomorrow. This is my first car, my first big project, my first anything really.

I don't know anything about cars besides changing the oil, spark plugs, and audio, but I have a crazy obsession with working on cars. I'm trying to find someone in my area that would agree to do work on my car and show me how and what hes doing so that I can learn without fear of taking my car apart on my own and having it not start because I cant put it back together again. All in all, I WANT this to be a learning experience for me, I WANT to baby this car like its made of gold. I want to learn everything about this car, I plan on having this car for a long time, so I want to start with the very basics and general tuning and work my way up. I'm prepared for a long run.

Timing belt has been replaced within the last 10,000 miles, so that's good. No colored exhaust coming out upon startup and rev-up, so that's good as well. What else am I missing that's just totally obvious to everyone besides me?:confused:

Here's my questions and either I'm totally missing big pieces of info, or haven't done enough research:

1. Does anyone know of a video showing how to take off some pipe (a part to the turbo so I can check for shaft-play, just cant think of the name of it) to check to the turbo? Iv seen diagrams and everything, but no videos and that something Id like to be able to check before purchase.

2. Should I be specifically checking around the suspension for rust? Are there covers I need to take off?

3. Cracked, old, leaking, gaskets- What do these looks like and where are they? Do I need to remove the valve cover to get to these?

4. Is it worth it to buy/build a compression tester and test the cylinders BEFORE I buy, or is something I'm going to want to deal with a little later on regardless? (I plan on buying within two days of this post- 1/17)

5. What is this lifter tick I hear about? Is this something that could be detrimental later on?

So, this is what I know to look for:

1. Shift through all gears -make sure it will reverse!
2. Check ground for leaks
3. Look for exhaust color
4. Check oil for color
5. Pay attention to gauge for boost leak (is this possible without a test?)
6. Pay attention to gauge to see if over boost is apparent
7. Check for rust
8. Check for cracks on engine/exhaust (how long are they on the exhaust?)
9. Check for crank walk (turn wheel all the way to the left and shift? problems=crankwalk, no problems= A ok?)

10. Make sure car handles well at high RPM, no side to side obvious shaking

11. Report back to everyone on DSMTuners that took the time to help!!:hellyeah:

ANY and ALL links will be read entirely, like I said I think I did my research, I read through the most of the stickies in DSM FAQ, the entire VFAQ, DSM maintenance article and stage 1 upgrade path (and free upgrades), and tons of articles/posts on many different sites. **Id like videos explaining any/everything, if anyone knows of some**

Will report back once car is(if) purchased. Thank you so much for reading this long ass post!!!
 
I was hoping against that. Oh well, I'll test drive it tomorrow then take a quality video myself and post it. Thanks for the response though!
 
This car appears to be a great start. it appears to be stock under the hood(which is rare for these cars) and with only 95k miles, as long as regular maintenance has been done you should be good. Definitely post back with your decision and good luck with ## first DSM! they are fun cars :)
 
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jXRggXufHtE ******PLEASE EXCUSE THE HORRIBLE ANNOYING CELLPHONE ANGLE VIEW--SHOULD BE ROTATED FOR NORMAL VIEWING SOON****

Ok guys, i bought it. Drives great, in the video it has a high idle that was unusual since it normally idles just under 1000. Havent noticed any problems while driving, seems good to me. Today I'll probably just wash it and try to get some Redline MT90 for the tranny, and heavy weight shock proof for the diff and transfer case; then some DOT3 for the clutch fluid, along with 50/50 mix of distilled water and water wetter. AM i right with all this so far?

Getting a little overwhelmed, just because i cant seem to find anything explaining how to bleed and fill the diff or the transfer case, hell, I dont even know where they are (but thats an easy search). Another quick question, the coolant case i pulled out at the beginning of the video, thats the overflow right? Well, it was about half full, so I would assume thats bad?
 
Would definitely get to work on that rust before it becomes a big problem. And why is the engine being so loud? Maybe an exhaust leak? Mine is completely stock and its not nearly as loud, only lifter ticks which im taking care of soon.
 
Ooof, those are some really rough strut towers. You might want to focus on repairing those before they get worse. Otherwise it sounds like the car is running great. Congrats!
 
Ya I sprayed some rustolleum but I'm not sure what else to do.. and do you mean the struts ontop? How would I go about fixing those?

Is my fluid list good? I don't want to put in the wrong thing. The clutch res is totally empty...so either I have a leak or it wasn't put in? Idk, but I bought some DO brake fluid that was suggested by someone else. I'd just like a double opinion I really don't want to screw this up.

As far as the car being so Damn loud, the muffler is all rusted out and isn't even connected to the exhaust system anymore, it's just hanging on there. So I figured after getting the fluids change, that would be my first step? I'm not exactly sure what to do about the strut towers either so..
 
Dang man. You really should have posted that video before you bought it. Hope you are really good with body work or have friends in the business. Judging by the rust on that strut tower that you stuck your finger through, makes me wonder about the under side of that thing.
Welome and Congrats on your purchase.

Jayson
 
Good luck on the dsm bro! After owning one for awhile, you will be a better mechanic than the average. You will want to keep learning, and replacing things. Follow the maintenance guide above, and you should be all set.

Just remember, you can come to this site for ANY question that you have. 99% of our community are more than willing to help a brother out.

Kevin
 
I have a guy who does body work, just don't know how much hell charge. I'll figure it out though


Thanks kevin. So first question, will DOT3 work fine as clutch fluid?
 
Ahhh that manual is amazing!! Thank you!

Im looking for a tutorial on how to change the coolant now, Iv never done it before, but Iv heard it isnt hard so...may as well.

I also put the DOT3 in the clutch reservoir. I didnt bleed anything, because there was nothing in there so hopfully everything works out ok.

For coolant, I got water wetter and distilled water. Iv heard people say 50/50 and 30/70 (water) so..Guess a little bit more research is in order.
 
This is a really good site. Visual Frequently Answered Questions - Home Page
Go under drivetrain and there is a write up on the diff and transfer case fluid change.

For the coolant change, you don't really need the water wetter. I would just get a gallon of distilled and a gallon of straight antifreeze. 50 50 will be fine, but you can add more water to the ratio for a little better cooling. Just make sure the ratio will be ok for your climate so it doesn't freeze up.

Make sure you check for fluid on the outside of the transfer case and how much fluid came out of the transfer case as they are known to leak.
 
Ahhh that manual is amazing!! Thank you!

Im looking for a tutorial on how to change the coolant now, Iv never done it before, but Iv heard it isnt hard so...may as well.

I also put the DOT3 in the clutch reservoir. I didnt bleed anything, because there was nothing in there so hopfully everything works out ok.

For coolant, I got water wetter and distilled water. Iv heard people say 50/50 and 30/70 (water) so..Guess a little bit more research is in order.
Congrats and welcome to the community :thumb:
Considering you are in freezing weather in Illinois i would stick to 50/50 mix and you can switch to 30/70 water in summer if you want.
 
Congrats and welcome to the community :thumb:
Considering you are in freezing weather in Illinois i would stick to 50/50 mix and you can switch to 30/70 water in summer if you want.

Thanks! Very new to the world of DSM, but very willing and eager to learn the trade. Is there any benifit to rnning 30/70 water in the summer? Why not keep it 50/50?
 
Water cools better than antifreeze. The more water in the water to antifreeze ratio, the better it cools. There is no need to change the ratio though. 50/50 will do you just fine.
 
Thats exactly what i though but i wanted to be sure.

The first things I want to do are:

1. New exhaust cat-back system. Still a little unclear about the benefit verses a turboback, but either way my muffler is pretty rusted (pics tomorrow) and isnt even connected to the downpipe anymore, its all rusted and needs to be replaced. Also fix the rust in the front strut tower.

2. Sound system. I know, I know some turn their heads to this, but since this is my daily driver, I want some comfort and dont like the stock speakers/theyre blown.

3. Replace 2g BOV with 1g BOV, replace OEM air filter with K&N high flow filter charger, get a new exhaust manifold, 650cc fuel injectors with a 16g turbo, new fuel rail and fuel line, possibly a FMIC(?), aftermarket boost, water temp, oil temp, and pressure gauges, manuel boost control, new 02 sensor housing (?), big brake upgrade with bigger/wider rims and tires, lightened flywheel(?), walbro fuel pump, fuel control mangement system.

4. Demon eye headlights and fix sticky door locks.

All in all, Im pretty sure I'm in way over my head. I had trouble figuring out how to flush the coolant.... But i didnt jack up the car so im sure that was my problem (had to go to work soon). I have a friend who knows a guy who may be willing to work on my car with me and show/teach me everything hes doing. I think i can install the exhaust and o2 housing myself, the manifold replacement too. Same with the fuel ingectors and BOV, but im not so sure about the fuel rail/turbo/gauges (Iv never done electrical work) or the flywheel. I dont even think that would be as beneficial as i think it if im not upgrade more things like the camshaft etc. I also need to figure out why the aftermarket front bumper isnt installed properly and my left front headlight wiggles, plus theres a gap that just looks weird. Any tips as to where i should start?
I was about to go to a Mitsu dealership, but by myself I thought theyd try and pull one over on me and get me to spend tons of money on things Im not looking for but "need".

I also need to research how to roll my fenders, Id like to get a bit less clearance between the fender and the tires, so i want bigger rims/tires without lowering the car and having to get new shocks. This may not be possible, but these are just my thoughts now.

My goal is a comfy daily driver with 300-350whp but AS RELIABLE AS POSSIBLE. Since funds are not exactly flowing, I dont want to put all this money in and then have to do a engine rebuild because I missed something or overpowered something. Im literally on me own with this (praying this guy has time to help here and there), but Iv got the power of the interenet so...even if it takes years, this is one goal im sticking too. Im trying real hard to not say over and over GIVE ME ANSWERS PLEASE HEEELLPPPPP haha
 
To be absolutely brutally honest, I wouldn't sink a dime into the car until you get a quote for that tower repair and fix it. With one that bad, it's borderline unsafe. Usually, the other side isn't very far off (which i'm likely correct on given the bad surface rust already present). That bill is going to be high if you can even get a shop to do the work. Some are nervous with tower jobs and I can't blame them from a liability standpoint. Assuming you get it all fixed up, all fluids, belts, and wear and tear items applicable are next on your list.

The way I see it, you're a long way away from modifying anything at this point. I really hope you didn't give him close to his list price.

I know it's tempting to just throw money at it, but you'll really regret doing so without addressing this serious issue.

Welcome to the rust bucket 2Gs. Enjoy your stay :thumb:.
 
To be absolutely brutally honest, I wouldn't sink a dime into the car until you get a quote for that tower repair and fix it. With one that bad, it's borderline unsafe. Usually, the other side isn't very far off (which i'm likely correct on given the bad surface rust already present). That bill is going to be high if you can even get a shop to do the work. Some are nervous with tower jobs and I can't blame them from a liability standpoint. Assuming you get it all fixed up, all fluids, belts, and wear and tear items applicable are next on your list.

The way I see it, you're a long way away from modifying anything at this point. I really hope you didn't give him close to his list price.

I know it's tempting to just throw money at it, but you'll really regret doing so without addressing this serious issue.

Welcome to the rust bucket 2Gs. Enjoy your stay :thumb:.


Hey this is what I need, brutal honesty! Is it really that difficult to make them reliable? I dont know much about welding, but I just figured cutting out the rust and welding in some durable sheet metal (or whatever) coating with rust deterrent, would be fine? The timing belt was changed a few months ago along with the water pump. So should i just assume on replacing the timing belt tensioner and pulley, the idler pulley, the tension arm, and the balancing shaft?

I know it would proably just be a ball park, but as I havent personally contacted him about (talked a friend who said this guy could probably do it), how much do you think this will run? Couple hundred, or more like a grand or two? I get that ANY rust is really not the safest, but what makes this rusted point stand out when compared to others?
 
The rust on the strut is really dangerous because this is where the top of your strut connects... The strut connects in one way or another to a lot of other(if not all) front end suspension components. If it got so bad and collapsed it would def do serious damage... if you were cruising at highway speeds on 74 (i live in the area) you would probably make the news!
 
It's not always as simple as welding on a patch and calling it a day. When it eats through like that, you can almost guarantee the entire inner portion of the tower looks like that without having made it to the surface yet. Think of it like cancer, sometimes by the time you find it, it's already spread 3/4 of the way through your body.


It's not that the car itself is unreliable, it's just us northern cars have had this issue. Water and salt mixes from these lovely winters make their way into the towers, likely through the upper control arm mounts. Thus you have the end result. I'd venture to say the good majority have had at least one rust related issue with the tower. Some of us have just been relatively lucky.

You don't want that tower buckling in on you at any speed. Its the mounting point for both the strut and upper control arm. One really good pothole is all it can take. I also couldnt give you a price. Every shop is going to value that job by different means. What I would get charged her in NY is going to be vastly different. I can't really see it being less than $700 though.

You also don't necessarily need to replace the tensioner and pullies. I would do them and a new belt around 120k though along with your bsek if you so choose. Whether the P.O. did it or not, I always follow the factory maintenance schedule to the "T." As a result, the car has only ever left me stranded once, and that was dude to a crappy remanufactured alternator. Went with a good 90 amp alternator from the junkyard, threw some new brushes and a front bearing in it and called it a day.
 
It's not always as simple as welding on a patch and calling it a day. When it eats through like that, you can almost guarantee the entire inner portion of the tower looks like that without having made it to the surface yet. Think of it like cancer, sometimes by the time you find it, it's already spread 3/4 of the way through your body.


It's not that the car itself is unreliable, it's just us northern cars have had this issue. Water and salt mixes from these lovely winters make their way into the towers, likely through the upper control arm mounts. Thus you have the end result. I'd venture to say the good majority have had at least one rust related issue with the tower. Some of us have just been relatively lucky.

You don't want that tower buckling in on you at any speed. Its the mounting point for both the strut and upper control arm. One really good pothole is all it can take. I also couldnt give you a price. Every shop is going to value that job by different means. What I would get charged her in NY is going to be vastly different. I can't really see it being less than $700 though.

You also don't necessarily need to replace the tensioner and pullies. I would do them and a new belt around 120k though along with your bsek if you so choose. Whether the P.O. did it or not, I always follow the factory maintenance schedule to the "T." As a result, the car has only ever left me stranded once, and that was dude to a crappy remanufactured alternator. Went with a good 90 amp alternator from the junkyard, threw some new brushes and a front bearing in it and called it a day.


Rust has probably spread under all that paint. So it isint just the visible parts that are rusted out. Would weld out the whole part from another car to stick on this one.
 
It's not always as simple as welding on a patch and calling it a day. When it eats through like that, you can almost guarantee the entire inner portion of the tower looks like that without having made it to the surface yet. Think of it like cancer, sometimes by the time you find it, it's already spread 3/4 of the way through your body.

This paragraph really puts the damage it into perspective. I also live up North and it took me many months of rigorous searching to find a rust free shell worth purchasing. My first purchase DSM was like yours unfortunately, I ended swapping the engine/usable parts into a clean shell and scrapping the remains of the car. Have you taken a good look under the car yet? I bet the rockers are crumbling.

I hate to say it but you could probably buy a clean shell for less than it is going to cost you to repair/replace your strut towers.
 
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