Just to make sure. You open the bleeder, press the pedal, close the bleeder, lift the pedal, repeat. It takes 2 people if you don't have speed bleeders.

Yes, well, I opened the bleeder, ran a hose from the bleeder to a bottle with clutch fluid in it, pumped the pedal at least 10 times (each time the fluid is not going down in the fluid reservior) pedal stays on the floor, close the bleeder, then lift the pedal. I still don't have pedal pressure at all. Do you have to prime the master cylinder or is the rod not going in far enough when the pedal is pushed to the floor? So you think I should just push the pedal once to the floor and close the bleeder valve?

i just changed a clutch on a gst and the trow out bearing got stuck on the input shaft from all the grease/dust/ drift. so the clutch was released all the way and it took out his clutch. so i just cleaned everything up n greased it runs great now.

i had this problem the fork was a tiny bit bent and that what the proplem was.

Bought my talon a few years ago and it had a clutch issue that the guy couldn't figure out how to fix.. me and my dad replaced the TOB fork and it was fine no problems what so ever, the guy had the wrong fork in.

Now I just finished rebuilding my motor. I bought a USED transmission for fairly cheap, wasn't on a car or anything though just sitting under this canopy the guy had. so i get my motor all put together and in the car... it STARTS!! but won't move because the clutch wont disengage so i can put it in gear. So i pulled off the trans assuming the clutch fork was the problem, the fork i pulled off was very worn and not the same as the fork i pulled off my old transmission.. i was debating on shimming but decided not to as the for was in the middle of the housing where it is supposed to be, throw out bearing also looked good and it was smooth spinning with no play. so i put the trans back on and still wouldn't work, pedal still only returned 50 percent. i put the helper spring on the pedal.. which it NEVER had before, now it returns but i only start getting pressure from the pedal at 50% still.. yes the pedal did not come all the way back up before i removed the trans... then i decided to bleed it again with a mighty vac but the piece that goes over the bleeder was loose and had to be held on with pressure to seal. the fluid that came out was what has been sitting in it and it was dark, but i don't know if that would be from age or a bad master.. i replaced the slave because it was extremely dirty and gummed up and i got a deal on an OEM part. $25. Replaced the slave last night, and filled with new fluid, let it gravity feed with the bleeder open until fluid started coming out and i let it run for a little while i made sure the reservoir was full. then i had someone pump the clutch a few times and hold it, i then opened the bleeder and fluid SHOT out, closed the bleeder and repeated 3 times, no bubbles and fluid was clean..
thought it would be good, so we tried starting it and no luck still had 50% pedal, and clutch not disengaging..

i am looking for transmission for 96 eagle talon tsi
AWD, MT, 23 spline.
If anyone knows where I can get one, or where a better place to post this would be, it would be much appreciated.
im looking for one thats under 100k or around that, and i dont want to spend more than $800

samvdb89 said:

Bought my talon a few years ago and it had a clutch issue that the guy couldn't figure out how to fix.. me and my dad replaced the TOB fork and it was fine no problems what so ever, the guy had the wrong fork in.

Now I just finished rebuilding my motor. I bought a USED transmission for fairly cheap, wasn't on a car or anything though just sitting under this canopy the guy had. so i get my motor all put together and in the car... it STARTS!! but won't move because the clutch wont disengage so i can put it in gear. So i pulled off the trans assuming the clutch fork was the problem, the fork i pulled off was very worn and not the same as the fork i pulled off my old transmission.. i was debating on shimming but decided not to as the for was in the middle of the housing where it is supposed to be, throw out bearing also looked good and it was smooth spinning with no play. so i put the trans back on and still wouldn't work, pedal still only returned 50 percent. i put the helper spring on the pedal.. which it NEVER had before, now it returns but i only start getting pressure from the pedal at 50% still.. yes the pedal did not come all the way back up before i removed the trans... then i decided to bleed it again with a mighty vac but the piece that goes over the bleeder was loose and had to be held on with pressure to seal. the fluid that came out was what has been sitting in it and it was dark, but i don't know if that would be from age or a bad master.. i replaced the slave because it was extremely dirty and gummed up and i got a deal on an OEM part. $25. Replaced the slave last night, and filled with new fluid, let it gravity feed with the bleeder open until fluid started coming out and i let it run for a little while i made sure the reservoir was full. then i had someone pump the clutch a few times and hold it, i then opened the bleeder and fluid SHOT out, closed the bleeder and repeated 3 times, no bubbles and fluid was clean..
thought it would be good, so we tried starting it and no luck still had 50% pedal, and clutch not disengaging..

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I would make sure the master cylinder is adjusted correctly, then if it still doesn't come all the way back up, its time to take out the clutch pedal assembly and weld it.

Alright so I got this 92 laser turbo rs about three weeks ago drove it for a week and then the clutch messed up. My dad and I replaced the whole clutch the master and the slave cylinder. We have bleed the whole system and now the clutch will pump 3 to 4 times then will go straight to the floor. We pull it up with our hands then it pumps again. If the car sits for too long the clutch goes straight to the floor no pressure but if we turn the car on it pumps and has pressure we pump it about 3 to 4 times and it drops to the floor and does not return unless done by hand. whats the problem?

tubulor101 said:

Alright so I got this 92 laser turbo rs about three weeks ago drove it for a week and then the clutch messed up. My dad and I replaced the whole clutch the master and the slave cylinder. We have bleed the whole system and now the clutch will pump 3 to 4 times then will go straight to the floor. We pull it up with our hands then it pumps again. If the car sits for too long the clutch goes straight to the floor no pressure but if we turn the car on it pumps and has pressure we pump it about 3 to 4 times and it drops to the floor and does not return unless done by hand. whats the problem?

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It's likely you still have air in the lines. The only time I've had this happen to me when it wasn't air in the lines was with an old master that had developed a small crack in the oring/seal. It wouldn't allow the pedal to build any pressure until I threw a rebuild kit in it. You said yours was new though.

Turns out something was wrong with the new master cylinder we put the old one in and it works but broke again im going to order a new master cylinder from auto zone today any link on a video that shows me how to replace the master cylinder I wanna try and do it myself.

boostedinaz said:

Sometimes I come across as a dick and this may be one of those times. I have been around cars for along time and one of the things I have seen is something like this. People will go and get a part that "should fit just fine." When they try to get it to work it doesnt and they end up spendign more than they wanted in the first place. If you look at some of my other post I always say do it right and do it once. Get rid of the part you have and go buy a brand new 2G turbo master cylinder. The parts store has two different part numbers becasue they are two different parts.

Michael

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I would start by filling your master reservoir with fluid and unhook the line from the slave. [which you should pre fill with fluid] now a few things. first let the fluid gravity feed till its dripping from the fitting. and making sure the slave it pre filled with fluid, hook the line back up to it, now if your slave is not mounted as It normally should be, for example when the pins pushes the fork, It will need that resistance from the pressure plate to help the process so gravity feed, pre fill slave and mount, when fluid starts dripping the hook it up to the slave, which needs to be mounted properly. pin an all, now, the best way I have found to do this is to mount a strong spring to the pedal to assist it once pressure starts to build. so with everything hooked up. pull the pedal up, which will draw fluid in from the reservoir, then do only one depress, have a friend open the bleeder, {Avoid using a clear hose on the bleeder nipple, sometimes it can draw air in at the nipple itself and it will only appear that air is being bleed out.} Now only push that clutch down one time,,,,,,open the bleeder, and then close it... IT MUST BE CLOSED BEFORE RETURNING THE PEDAL TO THE UP POSITION, the spring I mentioned earlier will help with the pedal returning to the top position, but never raise the pedal with the bleeder on the slave open, it will draw in air, defeating the purpose. Again avoid clear tubing on the bleeder. its a little messier but just trust me on that,. So now you simply repeat the process. only depressing the pedal once and a time till you feel pressure build. once the pedal begins returning up on its own. then pump the pedal a few times before opening the bleeder screw on the slave cylinder, But IMPORTANT!!!!! The pedal must always be down to the floor when opening the bleeder on the slave. never lift the pedal when its open or you will be starting all over again. Now that should work for you I Wish ya the best of luck

tubulor101 said:

Turns out something was wrong with the new master cylinder we put the old one in and it works but broke again im going to order a new master cylinder from auto zone today any link on a video that shows me how to replace the master cylinder I wanna try and do it myself.

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putting a new clutch master in is a piece of cake you simply have to run the piston form the master through the firewall then mount the unit to the firewall itself then your one steel line from the master to the slave{ Just one steel line. like a break line} and hook up a threaded adjustable bolt from the master cylinder which is now under the dash, to the clutch pedal assembly. when connected, depressing the clutch pedal will in turn drive that pin into the master cylinder, which will then force hydraulic fluid through the steel line to the slave which pushes a pin into a fork that works as a sort of teeter totter, in turn press the throw out bearing against the splines on the pressure plate wihich will disengage the clutch from the flywheel. all in one swift motionexcatly, its a fairly simple task,,,,,,best of luck to ya

Sup guys? I have a 98 TSI AWD. Few weeks ago I went outside on a cold day too start up my car and the pedal stuck right too the floor, I physically have too pull the pedal up off the floor. The car will not go into gear. I replaced the Slave cylinder and bled the system and and I can feel a bit of pressure in the pedal but it still does not come all the way back up as a clutch pedal should, I am going too order a new Master cylinder and see if this fixes it.. any ideas guys? all opinions would be helpful and tips. Thanks

Re-bleed the system. Use some Teflon on the bleeder screw to make sure air doesn't re-enter the system.

If not, could be defective parts.

Make sure you try to readjust it too. I had the same issue ended up being the adjustment.

How do I adjust it ?

Hes talking about petal adjustment, which wont be your issue here.
Youre probably getting air into the system. Check the slave cyl, and the lines from the master to the slave.

You say you bled it, are you sure you got all of the air out of the system. They can be a real pain at times and you just have to keep bleeding it..