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Best BOV for 500+ using 1G flange

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I knew I saw a forge on the classifieds. These used to have major problems, but since they revised the design they are reliable and hold big boost.
NEW Forge Motorsports BOV Recirculator Valve - DSM Classifieds
Not sure the forge would be any better than the 1g with a dodge garage mod on it though. 1g is a beast.

Yeah I am running a revised forged bov and its awesome 653whp@34psi with no issue will turn it up next week hoping for new numbers at the dyno:thumb:
 
turning it up more kel.

Well last dyno was at 34psi I plan on turning it up to 36 psi. The 653 dyno was a drive in off the street dyno This time I plan on getting a tune on the car. I have also upgraded the fuel pump to a walbro 450 as well as upgraded the clutch. I am definitely hoping for some improvement over the 653;) I have been playing with linktools and now have the ability to control boost through dsmlink v3 I am excited about the improvements!
 
Ah I see im still running my greddy s had it for years love it over the rs I had years ago, so far no problems. Other than that I only had a 1g bov. 653 huh that's a lot of power man.
 
Are you guys using the Forge Diverter Valve or the Atmospheric Dump valve? And what proof do you guys have that the Synchronic is a bad BOV? I've used them with great results.
 
Ah I see im still running my greddy s had it for years love it over the rs I had years ago, so far no problems. Other than that I only had a 1g bov. 653 huh that's a lot of power man.

Yeah its a lot for fwd but I love it. Here is the cool part about dsmlink v3 I can set the boost based on gear and at the same time selected rpm this helps me to keep from blowing the tires off its godsend for us fwd guys:cool:
 
Are you guys using the Forge Diverter Valve or the Atmospheric Dump valve? And what proof do you guys have that the Synchronic is a bad BOV? I've used them with great results.

I am dumping to the atmosphere. I am not familiar with synchronic bov!
 
Yes link does have some cool features, Im so glad Invested in it, ill never need another tuning platform.

Its certainly an investment. I posted on ecmlink forum yesterday That AEM can't even come close to link IMO :p
 
This has to be one of the most ignorant things I have ever heard.



Edit: Given your propensity for BC cams, nevermind. Totally expected from you.

Lol why is it please explain what you've heard! Aem is not even close to link v3 that's a fact! Aem is problematic at best! I know a few locals who wish they had link and hate Aem. BC smallest cams yielded me 653 ponies 500 of which came at 4800rpm! Cyclone baby no cookie cutter here and by the way, I am not mad at you. May be you are not what you all "cracked" up to be LOL!
 
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Wow, I have been around a long time and personally I never seen a aem unit. LOL. Damn I love a platform I can grasp with out any tuning experience but that's just me.
 
AEM is an amazing tuning system, it is more complicated than link but i believe it is a better tuning system.

See this is what I like to know "what makes it better/amazing?" No one can seem to answer that. It is certainly not user friendly for the nomad!
 
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See this is what I like to know "what makes it better?" No one can seem to answer that.

Not a user or familiar with AEM but one of Kiggly's crank tooth kits is for AEM and uses a 12 tooth trigger plate instead of our stock trigger plate which has only 2. Theoretically, the 12 tooth plate should give a higher resolution. At least that's what I heard from Dave. He was asked whether they could adapt a 12 tooth and he said he could but it would take a lot of work to rewrite the code for small gains. That's just one of the advantages. I'm sure there's more.
 
Seems like a lot of work with aem even though I never used it, but there is a thread about this on the site aem and ecmlink pros and cons. that's another topic, all together
 
Seems like a lot of work with aem even though I never used it, but there is a thread about this on the site aem and ecmlink pros and cons. that's another topic, all together

Yeah link is definitely more user friendly for the beginner. Okay getting back on topic;)
 
Seriously? You're moving this much air, and you want to restrict the main BOV passage? Just reflange it to a TiAl and be done.

If you want to make your 1G bov work better and hold the boost. Here is the way to do it without crushing it.

How to Dodge Mod a BOV - YouTube

And if someone wants to make 500hp, you shouldn't be trying to ghetto rig a 1g BOV to do the job...
 
I wouldn't run a Synapse if someone gave it to me.
I don't know that it could have kept up with the air needing to be dumped on the old Talon, but as far as the valve itself, it's stellar. I mean, it's no 100 dollar turd that needs re-greasing and guessing at springs, though.
 
I'd be looking at something with more cross-section than a 1G flanged "anything" has to offer if you are looking to evacuate 50+lbs/min from the charge pipe when you are slamming the throttle shut.. especially if you are mounting it perpendicular to the flow.
 
I'd be looking at something with more cross-section than a 1G flanged "anything" has to offer if you are looking to evacuate 50+lbs/min from the charge pipe when you are slamming the throttle shut.. especially if you are mounting it perpendicular to the flow.

Sound advice,

Its really about surface area that the BOV/bypass valve can allow for charged air to pass by. The same reason people run two BOV/bypass valves.

pi X r^2 = area
 
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