2g manifold is Dsm flanged
BEP housing is Dsm flanged

That's my fault, I mean clearance wise. Such as will denting the water pipe be needed, will the oil drain fittings clear the motor mount, and any compressor housing hitting the block issues. I have a t3 to t4 adapter but it brings the turbo to low which makes the ch sit on the motor mount which has been ground way down already. I put a half inch manifold spacer in to bring it out but the oil drain is inaccesable. I hear everyone has mostly good luck with the bep housing but I'm just worried about fitment issues with my particular setup

What would be really cool is if there was a thread specifically on the topic of HX35/40's and their manifold fitment(s) with certain turbine housings.




http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/tur...olds-work-holset-hx35-hx40.html#post151936567

Trust me I have gone through every thread related to hx35 manifolds, and don't see anyone running this setup. Just looking for some input on wether the bep housing with the 2g manifold will have clearance issues on a 1g. have googled it, searched all over dsm tuners, even tried to pm members for exact dimensions on the housing.

F_27stryker1 said:

Trust me I have gone through every thread related to hx35 manifolds, and don't see anyone running this setup. Just looking for some input on wether the bep housing with the 2g manifold will have clearance issues on a 1g. have googled it, searched all over dsm tuners, even tried to pm members for exact dimensions on the housing.

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Did you even click the link he posted? Let me make this easier for you.

squeak104 said:

HX-40, BEP bolt on housing, stock 2G exhaust manifold, no spacers.

Had to dent the water pipe a bit, and compressor cover touches the block. It could clear the block by about a 1/4 to 1/2 inch but my lower intercooler pipe would interfere with the front motor mount.

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Yes idid check out his link. I can see it fits when on a motor stand, but what about in car, with the addition of the motor mount. Worried about fitment here guys, and just trying to get opinions.

It will fit

F_27stryker1 said:

Yes idid check out his link. I can see it fits when on a motor stand, but what about in car, with the addition of the motor mount. Worried about fitment here guys, and just trying to get opinions.

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If I can fit an HX52, bottom mounted, between a full size extra thick radiator (pusher fans) your piddly little HX35 will be just fine.



Here's my old s200sx in the bolt-on housing, which is directly comparable to the HX35 and HX40 depending on which compressor wheel/turbine you choose mounted under a 2G manifold:



For scale - HX52 next to the stock 14B


S200sx next to the 14B:


Long story short, do more research then make it fit. Because this is a custom turbo setup, not everything is guaranteed to bolt-up so expect some massaging.

Well thanks for the replies. Going to try the bep .55, with the 4 bolt mitsu downpipe. One quick question I'm seeing that the bep housings kinda angles forward, like it actually moves everything forward an inch or two. Does anyone know how far excactly?

I don't know exactly how much it moves everything forward, but it's not very much and still not enough. I had to dent the water pipe and shorten the water line banjo bolt.

One of the small problems I'm afraid will happen is that the oil drain will be sitting on the motor mount, but if its moves eveything out just an inch that would most likely allow me to clear it.

You will have to trim the motor mount on the block to allow an easier path the the pan. At least in my case...2 minutes with a grinder and no sharp edges later it for it to fit good.

I'll try to get a picture up of how much I have ground it down already. On the right side of your mount how far did you take it down? I went down till it was flush with the horizontal metal.

WES_393 said:

I don't know exactly how much it moves everything forward, but it's not very much and still not enough. I had to dent the water pipe and shorten the water line banjo bolt.

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You're a 2g so you naturally have more clearance because your motor mount is on the tranny.

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I had no fitment issues with my hx35 setup from 2008. These pics are a bit old but you get the picture. the turbo clears fine with a little clocking of the compressor cover and denting of the water pipe. You can see clearance is fine with both the mount and drain line.

The motor mount may need some trimming. I have the fp mani which is almost identical and I got away without trimming it, but it is very tight. As for the compressor cover, if you leave it firing straight down the motor mount WILL get in to way. If you clock it slightly towards the front of the car you will have no problems.

A little update on this. I tried with the ported 2g exhaust manifold and the regular holset t3 housing. I did this bc I didn't wanna wait for a bep housing and I didn't have that money laying around like most do. We machined out a t4 to t3 adapter and while it bolted up beautifully to both pieces, and made the turbo hit on the block. We went back to the drawing board and angled the adapter forward. This time it cleared the block and water line but made the oil return line impossible to hook up bc it was sitting on the motor mount, which was ground just as much as it could be.
Here is what I did. Bought one of those ebay 110 dollar headers. Had some extra braces tig welded on and the wastegate outlet made to a 45 degree angle. Guess what, everything bolted right up, almost a half inch of clearance between the water pipe and the block, oil drain was just perfect for me. I know these headers are junk, but i'll run it until I get the chance to pull my motor for a serious rebuild and upgrade from there.

Any pics?

I would recommend putting studs in every bolt hole of the BEP housing. Every hole on mine, the threads are either gone, or a bolt is snapped off/sized in. I've never seen anything like it before. Even if I liked the setup otherwise, I wouldn't recommend the POS housing to anyone. Yes, I tried copper anti-seize the second time, and it did not help.

To answer your question, I used a spacer between the head and manifold so I wouldn't have to smash my waterpipe. On my other car, I smashed the waterpipe to get it to fit.

Yes, 2G vs 1G the front roll-stop will make things a little different for the compressor outlet and oil drain, but that's about it -- I've had the setup on both. Depending on your setup, you may be able to use both stock cooling fans still.

Iv'e had 2 of those housings myself and at least 1 snapped off bolt on the manifold mounting part and the o2 housing part. It sucks having to fix that kinda stuff.

+1 for pics

Basically, I can never again take my o2 housing off, which sucks since I don't really like the o2 housing I'm using. Also, even the bolts that hold the turbo to the housing all break off or strip.

I'd love to see updates on how this.setup works.o utfor you

jrohner said:

I would recommend putting studs in every bolt hole of the BEP housing. Every hole on mine, the threads are either gone, or a bolt is snapped off/sized in. I've never seen anything like it before. Even if I liked the setup otherwise, I wouldn't recommend the POS housing to anyone. Yes, I tried copper anti-seize the second time, and it did not help.

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It's still not right, that's why.

There's no copper in a BEP Stainless turbine housing or the bolts you're using to mount it. There is, however, plenty of nickel in the Stainless casting....so here's what you need:



I've removed plenty of bolts from BEP turbine housings I had installed using this compound and never had one seize or stick in the housing. Just make sure the bolt threads are in good condition before installing them- if they're rounded or stripped, you're going to have problems no matter what.

Evo III 16G turbine housings are the same way about eating bolts- and the reason is they're a high-nickel casting that is quite close to stainless.

From Permatex:

Nickel:
Protects metal parts from seizing and galling at temperatures up to 2400 degree fahrenheit
For use with stainless steel, titanium and nickel alloys
For use under conditions of extreme pressure and temperature
Recommended where copper contamination must be avoided
Suggested Applications: Exhaust manifold bolts, exhaust system bolts, muffler clamps and tailpipe assemblies

Copper:
Prevents seizing, corrosion and galling where high temperature conditions exist
Fortified with high quality rust and corrosion inhibitors
Temperature range: -30F to 1800F
Provides good electrical conductivity
Suggested Applications: Spark plug threads installed in aluminum, exhaust manifold bolts, engine bolts, oxygen sensors, knock sensors, thermostat housing bolts, fuel filter fittings and battery cable connections

Standard:
Highly refined blend of aluminum, copper and graphite lubricants
Salt, corrosion and moisture resistant, this lubricant is ideal for marine use
Prevents galling, corrosion and seizing and to assure easier disassembly
Suggested Applications: For easy removal of spark plugs, cylinder head and exhaust head bolts
Temperature range: -60F to 1600F

There are also non-metallic versions that just use graphite...

Nice info about the Nickel anti-seize.
I use some seize but don't know what kind is it, I got one bolt striped from the bep housing.

For reference, what torque specs do they need to be for the BEP Housing?.