With it coming from JAM, I would have to conclude they decked the block for use with a MLS HG.

Cometic is not a bad brand, just alot of improper installs.

Next is, how is the surface finish of the head you are going to install?

Head and block were both prepped and built by JAM. Mirror finish on both

I doubt Tony from JAM would send you a HG that would fail.

Keep in mind, a failed HG is not the cause of a problem, but the result of a problem.

If you have questions on how to install it, or what prep work needs to be done to install it, I would call JAM and ask them.

Oh I know Tony wouldn't send me anything less then great. He did awesome work and I've been in contact with him about it the whole way.
I was just unsure after hearing some failed stories with Cometic that maybe I could go with Fel-Pro.
I'm seeing more and more I should just go with my instinct on it and install the Cometic though.

Personally, I would suggest that both the block and head surface be wiped down with brake clean, install the ARP studs and rock the Cometic.

Take your time and follow the torque sequence, and go in 3 steps, after the final torque, give it an hour or 3 and check the studs one last time at the final pull torque.

If both the block and head are mirror finished, stick with the cometic. I am about to install one and have heard numerous good things. As someone else stated above, most problems come from improper install. Get a set of ARP head studs and follow the installation instructions exactly. You should never have any problems.

I would rethink using the cometic IMO its at the bottom of the food chain when it comes to head gaskets and most machine shops will use a certain part because they are vendors of the manufacturer. Back in the day there were only three choices for us dsm guys when It came to choosing a head gasket. Composite, Mitsubishi Mls, and the cometic with the latter two being a bead type metal head gasket. Most head gasket failures comes from, not installers error but the head gasket ability to stand up to repeated accidental episodes of detonation. The thinnest metal layer of the metal layers usually suffers the most damage and eventually the gasket looses its sealing power in a very short period of time since the detonation is taking its rage out on the weakest point of the combustion chamber which is the thinnest layer of metal. I went through a few head gaskets back in the day and with the help of a few local tuners found out that my old way of tuning was backwards.

Most inexperienced guys will tune by starting off lean and the add fuel but what happens is before the car is tuned completely detonation is usually encountered and when this happens ,depending on how great the detonation is, it causes irreversible damage usually to the weakest part of the head gasket. Therefore I started tuning rich and subtracted fuel this kept me away from detonation.

At the same token I found a lot out about head gaskets and have used them all. I will post a picture later. with all being said the two that I found to work the best even under some accidental episodes of detonation and still maintain its seal are the power enterprise grommet style and the hks stopper head gaskets both being 87mm bore. The reason is the thinnest metal of the head gasket is protected from detonation with a grommet or stopper type bead as seen the the pictures. Below are some pictures of the differences in the types of head gaskets.

I`ve had several failures with Cometic and ARP. My car`s around 700hp with nitrous. I think my problem was mainly the head lifting due to the studs. I switched to Fel-Pro with A1 studs. No more HG problems.

JAM and Bogus SVO have the knowledge and reputation. I`m not arguing, just relating my experiences.