So right now my car has a 14b with the 7cm turbing housing at 15psi. Its fun but Im looking for a little more power. It has just over 93k on the chassis and motor, transmission has about 5k on it. The thing I like most is the car has been super reliable and never caused any problems. Headgasket and tbelt were done at 88k, and Ive also kept up with regular maintenance. Car doesnt leak or burn any fluids.

I have ECMLink v3 but am still on stock tune. Ive been tossing around the idea of going 20g this winter. Heres my thoughts

TD05 20g with downfiring compressor housing
Swap stock headbolts for ARP Headstuds
Switch from MAF to Speed Density
Larger Injectors
Maybe swap the 190 our for a 255 and afpr
Then spend the money on a good dyno tune. (boostin performance)

Id like to shoot around 300whp, which I think should be easily attainable with the 20g. I also feel that with a good tune the stock block and transmission should be able to handle this. The only thing is that I would hate to sacrifice reliability. I love being able to just jump in the car when I want and be able to drive it hard, even though I baby the car most of the time.


My profile is up to date on current mods to the car, just looking on some opinions from people.

Build plan sounds pretty good. I'd definitely get a 255 and regulator, or at the very least rewire the 190.

Do things right and get a good tune, and your reliability shouldn't suffer one bit.

WES_393 said:

Build plan sounds pretty good. I'd definitely get a 255 and regulator, or at the very least rewire the 190.

Do things right and get a good tune, and your reliability shouldn't suffer one bit.

Click to expand...

Yea I wont skimp on the tune thats for sure. Ive heard the 190 is good for around 400hp, why do you say get rid of it?

Horsepower capability depends on how much boost you plan to run, but here's the airflow support numbers for a 190lph non-rewired.

10psi = 46.48lbs/min
11psi = 45.89lbs/min
12psi = 45.26lbs/min
13psi = 44.58lbs/min
14psi = 43.86lbs/min
15psi = 43.09lbs/min
16psi = 42.28lbs/min
17psi = 41.43lbs/min
18psi = 40.54lbs/min
19psi = 39.60lbs/min
20psi = 38.62lbs/min
21psi = 37.60lbs/min
22psi = 36.53lbs/min
23psi = 35.42lbs/min
24psi = 34.26lbs/min
25psi = 33.06lbs/min

Above 20psi your cutting it really close for 300whp. So that's why I say get rid of it, or at least rewire it. And either way I'd still get a regulator.

Definitely go 255 and afpr. You will want that turbo at 25+lbs soon. It's addicting on the street.
Any thoughts on fuel? E85? I'd go with some 1050-1150's.
Good Luck, Have Fun

I am using a frank 3 20g aka td06 20g with 54mm inducer wheel. Seems to perform quite well i am running 25psi on stock motor accept for head studs. I am also on e85 though as well not sure on hp but ecm link estimate is right around 400hp. I am using fic 1050cc with still little room to go so for td05 20g they would be just fine.

get some fuel in that bad boy, 255 rewire, afpr and a e85 tune would be pushing over 400 easily.

other thoughts of small things ive done bored over winter( meth injection, wire tucks, cleaning up the bay, try fiberglassing gauge pods, It very easy and can be done with 20 dollars in supplies, get good at it and can make all kinds of stuff with fiberglass

As much as Id like to, I wont go e85 yet. As its not very readily available around me.

If You are staying on pump gas leave the 190 until it comes a problem. The stock head bolts will hold your goals. If you have remove the cylinder head for any reason that is when I would upgrade. Leave them for now. In your case I would leave the stock MAS. Your goals and needs won't gain you anything by switching to speed density. The car will be easier to tune and rive with the stock mas. I have speed density, but my truck is very complicated and it was necessary for my goals.

I thought about doing the headbolts one at a time since Ill have the valve cover off to swap in the one I just got powder coated. I figured for the $100 they are it would be a good idea to play it safe. Ive also been throwing around sticking with the maf. Ive heard of people saying their car runs so much better and smoother on speed density. And I really would like the tial bov

my friends car runs great on sd, im going that route in a few months, with bigger fic injectors so I can run e85.

Unless you plan on venting your blow off valve for that uber cool sound, stick with the mas. Your not tuning it anyway so what do you care? I would like to think Boostin Performance is capable of tuning your car in either configuration. ARP's won't serve you any benefit at your level. But if they make you feel better, go ahead and waste your money.

Recirc the BOV. Speed density or not, it helps keep spool up between shifts, makes for a smoother transition.

biglady112 said:

Unless you plan on venting your blow off valve for that uber cool sound, stick with the mas. Your not tuning it anyway so what do you care? I would like to think Boostin Performance is capable of tuning your car in either configuration. ARP's won't serve you any benefit at your level. But if they make you feel better, go ahead and waste your money.

Click to expand...

No Id like to get rid of my type-s bov. The tial is much nicer. Also wouldnt mind getting rid of some clutter with the maf. And Ive heard people saying their cars run way better once on sd. I havent decided yet, just throwing ideas around. Also with the headstuds I thought it would be a good idea if I ever wanted to push the stock block more.

NHerron said:

Recirc the BOV. Speed density or not, it helps keep spool up between shifts, makes for a smoother transition.

Click to expand...

How quickly the td05 spools I dont think it will make a drastic difference. But I havent decided against the maf yet.

Kyle_T said:

Also with the headstuds I thought it would be a good idea if I ever wanted to push the stock block more.

Click to expand...

The headstuds are a good idea. Stock 7-bolt head bolts are torque to yield so it wont take much to stretch them.

Yea, rather play it safe than sorry. I dont consider it wasting money.

Arp headstuds are not a waste of money, very beneficial, unless you like your stock studs stretching and blowing her up hahaha go ahead and throw them in, can run more boost safer.

2GEEZEY said:

Arp headstuds are not a waste of money, very beneficial, unless you like your stock studs stretching and blowing her up hahaha go ahead and throw them in, can run more boost safer.

Click to expand...

My thoughts exactly

If all you want is 300whp then why not go with a evo3 16g? it will spool faster and make the car fill more similar to the way it feels now with the 14b but provide that extra power all the way to redline. Wouldnt a 20g be better if you wanted say 400whp? Im not a hugely experienced dsm guy and im just getting back into the community after being hardcore into ls6 engines and still am. But seems to me with your bolt on 4g63 that the evo3 would spool much faster than the 20g and easily hit 300-330whp with bolt-ons and some mild port port.

Ok I think this will be my plan:

Td05 20g with downfiring tdo6 compressor cover
Tial mvs wastegate
walbro 255
aeromotive fpr
arp headstuds(thoughts on putting them in without lifting the head? My headgasket/timing belt were done 6k miles ago)


Id really like to get rid of the maf, but Im wondering if it will be worth it to go speed density. I will most likely be getting the car dyno tuned when everything is done. So should reliability/drive-ability be an issue with a good tune on speed density?

Also any other comments, concerns are welcome. The car still has all the original features: power steering, cruise, a/c, emissions, etc. And I plan to keep it that way.

Actually a SD tune could give you better drivability because of its ability to have VE numbers adjusted both by load AND RPM. It also meters air that actually makes it to the intake manifold vs. air that SHOULD make it to the intake manifold.

Couple of questions.

1. Are you going to run the wastegate off the o2 or the manifold?

2. You wouldn't happen to be on pbnation, would you?

Why not a bastard 20g? To retain the j-pipe? That's what I'm running. But If I was awd, I would opt for the 16g. I went 20g to compensate for my fwd.

I also had a 190 rewired & it seemed to keep up very well.

Get rid of your cruise control, lower battery, & clean up vacuum lines.

I should have pix in my gallery of my setup.

smills1840 said:

Couple of questions.

1. Are you going to run the wastegate off the o2 or the manifold?

2. You wouldn't happen to be on pbnation, would you?

Click to expand...

1. o2 housing. I will be keeping my fp manifold.
2. Haha yea, I used to go on there alot like 5 years ago. Dont go on much anymore.

rEclipserGST said:

Why not a bastard 20g? To retain the j-pipe? That's what I'm running. But If I was awd, I would opt for the 16g. I went 20g to compensate for my fwd.

I also had a 190 rewired & it seemed to keep up very well.

Get rid of your cruise control, lower battery, & clean up vacuum lines.

I should have pix in my gallery of my setup.

Click to expand...

TD05 20g = Bastard 20g. Im getting the better compressor cover because I want to get rid of the jpipe. Ive thought about keeping the 190 and rewiring it, but not sure yet. And Ive already said Im keeping cruise control & emissions stuff since I still have to pass testing.

Honestly for around $90 I can't see a reason not to get the 255. Then you won't have to worry about running out of pump.