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To go forged or not

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Cad

Probationary Member
4
0
Nov 15, 2013
San Antonio, Texas
Hi all new here ... But anyway ...I bought my gst knowing it needed some work ... 2 days later it goes from working fine with a valve tap and a blown turbo to a full on rod knock...I Did my homework and was gonna build a 6bolt with 7 bolt pistons... Pulled the motor and this motor had VERY MINIMAL CRANK WALK .01 mm or so . so I have decided to bail on the 6 bolt and build the 7 bolt instead... I'm using a 100mm crank out of a 2.4 and I've already bought forged piston

I'm shooting for "big" numbers on this like 5 to 550 lbs of torque and about the same in hp. I'll be using a much bigger turbo than my little 18g(undecided which kind.) 280 cams with a full ported head hard pipes front mount intercooler out of a starion. Along with a lot of other goodies I'll be tuning with what will most likely be ms3 .

s now I'm stuck with a hard question. Should I use the 6 bolt rods out of the block I acquired while I was doing my homework?(I know this route will require a lot of machine work.)
OR sell that and buy forged 7 bolt rods?
 
well, i'd be worried about the beginning stages of crankwalk as well, especially with pushing more power to that motor.
 
I'm not worried about that as I'll be using new crank , bearings and all that and I'll also be doing the thrust washer mod...
 
For 550 lbs of torque I would go forged hands down. I would also drop the starion front mount. I think it will not have the cooling capacity your looking for.
 
For 550 lbs of torque I would go forged hands down. I would also drop the starion front mount. I think it will not have the cooling capacity your looking for.

It's very possible that it won't . It's just kinda what's on the shelf right now since I have been big into starquests for a few years. But I will keep this in mind if I have any ping issues

Ok so that's
1 for forged rods
0 for 6bolt rods
 
Go for forged...cheaper to spend alittle extra now then more to put them in later.
 
I would buy forged rods for sure. Simply not worth the effort to make a 6 bolt rod work since its not much of an upgrade over stock.
 
You could also opt for aluminum rods.. Less rotating mass. I'm actually going to go with aluminum rods and wiseco hd for my 7 bolt over the winter too.
 
Go forged. If your rebuilding it you might as well spend the extra cash and get some good rods that are proven to handle the abuse. I was in the same position last year and decided to go with a 2.3 7 bolt and forged Manley rods and pistons. I also decided to go with the 4g64 crank and a Holset HX40. I ran a best of 11.5 on a full weight 2g spinning all four in first and half of second gear. My internals are the least of my worries. Now, my transmission and cv shafts on the other hand are a different story.
 
Go forged. If your rebuilding it you might as well spend the extra cash and get some good rods that are proven to handle the abuse. I was in the same position last year and decided to go with a 2.3 7 bolt and forged Manley rods and pistons. I also decided to go with the 4g64 crank and a Holset HX40. I ran a best of 11.5 on a full weight 2g spinning all four in first and half of second gear. My internals are the least of my worries. Now, my transmission and cv shafts on the other hand are a different story.

Exactly!
Just go with what is known to work. I ain't bagging on aluminums but read the quote above.
 
I agree with the other posts, go forged while you have the opportunity. To properly recondition, strengthen and rebalance a set of rods, you might find yourself spending close to or the equivalent the amount of a new set. dont ask me how i know :D.
 
Forged. Its really not that expensive anyway. Under a grand for rods and pistons. Thats not a whole lot and with your goals you're going to need it undoubtedly.
 
Go forged. If your rebuilding it you might as well spend the extra cash and get some good rods that are proven to handle the abuse. I was in the same position last year and decided to go with a 2.3 7 bolt and forged Manley rods and pistons. I also decided to go with the 4g64 crank and a Holset HX40. y.
Do you by chance know how well the Manley pistons compare to Wiseco HD? It happens that I was planning a very similar build with a Holset HX40, but using Wiseco internals as an alternative. I am speaking in means of longevity at approximately 24PSI as a daily driver with a stock crank in a 7 bolt (bad idea?). I am new to these cars and am still learning. Thank you for the info.
 
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^^There was a thread recently where quite a few members expressed complaints of the pins on standard wisecos. The wiseco HD line, to my knowledge, suffers none of this and has only positive reviews. I have no first hand experience but ive listened to a lot of other members here. For safeties sake, i would only use wiseco HD line, not the standard line they offer.
Hope this helps.
 
Forged it is thanks guys . And I'll keep the hx40 in mind thanks for that info too
 
Forged...Probe Pistons / Eagle rods...Go for Under $750.00

Do you by chance know how well the Manley pistons compare to Wiseco HD? It happens that I was planning a very similar build with a Holset HX40, but using Wiseco internals as an alternative. I am speaking in means of longevity at approximately 24PSI as a daily driver with a stock crank in a 7 bolt (bad idea?). I am new to these cars and am still learning. Thank you for the info.
Very big diff in the Manley SD vs the Wisceo HD. but Manley HD vs the Wiseco HD Manley HD wins. but if your going put out that type of cash call Magnus for there pistons.

You could also opt for aluminum rods.. Less rotating mass. I'm actually going to go with aluminum rods and wiseco hd for my 7 bolt over the winter too.
for the price of Aluminum Rods just but a set of R&R rods from Magnus. English Racing< Morales Racing<Magnus<Krio Tech all use them. But when its time to Freshen up the motor. Most shops change $300ish just for the drilled bearing
 
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