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6262 JB on stock 6 bolt bottom end

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Boosted DSM 32

10+ Year Contributor
681
2
Aug 21, 2011
McDonald, Ohio
Hey guys my buddy is selling his practically new journal bearing 6262 turbo off his car for 500 bucks since I'm a good buddy of his it has the .82 ar housing but I also have a .63 ar for it. My question is how would this Turbo fare on a stock 6 bolt bottom end? I have 880 injectors..255 pump... Dsmlink...4" Fmic.. And will have kelford 272s and kiggley springs in the car before its back on the road. Basically all supporting mods are taken care of.

My goal for the car is an 11.50 at over 123 mph on pump gas


From what I've read I would expect full boost to be around 5100-5300 rpm with the .63 ar? What I'm worried about is the powerband I would like to have around at least a 2500 rpm powerband. Would it be safe to rev the stock block to around 8000 rpm?

My car will be more of a roll race vehicle which I believe the 6262 would be awesome for with a good set of cams it would easily climb to anything my bottom end would take. I believe the stock motor in healthy condition should be able to see 8000 rpm without an issue.

If anyone could set me straight on the spool and safe rpm I'd really appreciate it
 
It probably wouldn't be optimal as your injectors will max at 25ish psi. Provided you had better injectors you could likely do those times at 28+ psi revving out to 8k. Your pump will also max soon after 30 psi. I don't have a 6262 but I have a 62mm hx40 which I feel is comparable. My bottom end is stock other than arp head studs and a felpro hg and it has seen 30+ for over a year and logged solid pulls at 36 psi and spiked to 38psi and its still going strong.
 
My question is how would this Turbo fare on a stock 6 bolt bottom end?
Laggier than you're going to want it to be for a street car.

My goal for the car is an 11.50 at over 123 mph on pump gas
You can do that on a turbo much smaller than a 6262.

What I'm worried about is the powerband I would like to have around at least a 2500 rpm powerband.
Pretty much. It would basically be: "waiiiit.....waiiiiit.....waiiiit....SHIFT....then repeat".

Would it be safe to rev the stock block to around 8000 rpm?
Without balance shafts, maybe....with balance shafts, absolutely not.
 
Damn... I want to get rid of this hx35 it's the 8 blade I calculated it from my track time and from what I've read I'm only making about 350whp on a mustang dyno. My holset falls off like a rock after 6800 rpm granted I have stock cams for now but I don't think cams would make a night and day difference. My home track is a super slow track you hardly get any mph. To put it into perspective I ran a 12.2 at 112 at my home track and a 12.0 at 120 at a different track LOL. But I know my car isn't a 120 car that tracks mph is way to fast.

My car just doesn't feel fast from a roll i can barely beat my buddies bolt on tune coyote 5.0. It feels like my car would need another 70whp to be fun and on pump gas I don't think the holset is gonna do it, I figure cams would give me 2-30whp more at most.
 
My holset falls off like a rock after 6800 rpm granted I have stock cams for now but I don't think cams would make a night and day difference.
You'd be surprised. Stock cams are geared for a 3000-5000rpm powerband as any non-gearhead in a 14B car isn't ripping to redline.

My car just doesn't feel fast from a roll i can barely beat my buddies bolt on tune coyote 5.0.
I'm going to assume you're talking about roll racing on a track somewhere....otherwise the thread stops here as we have a zero tolerance for street racing. The thread will be closed if the "roll racing" talk continues.

It feels like my car would need another 70whp to be fun and on pump gas I don't think the holset is gonna do it, I figure cams would give me 2-30whp more at most.
You need cams, and you also need to free up the turbine-side a little bit if you want to make power on pump gas...so going to a T3-flanged turbo will be beneficial no matter what size.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/drag-strip/444679-4g63awdhonda-holset-hy35-10-71-2012-shootout.html

^ 10.71 on a Holset HY35 with a full-weight 2G on pump gas; car had trapped as high as 133.9 on that setup. The only thing that was removed from the car was the spare tire. Not a stock motor, but he's not running any ridiculous compression ratio, either...just 8.3:1. Spools a hell of a lot faster than a 6262, also. ;)
 
I'm running the stock twin scroll t3 hotside that came on the turbo. Yes cams are going to be one of my first purchases after I get a better inter cooler on the car this winter. I already have a set of BC cam springs but I want to get a better set I've heard nothing but bad about Brian crower.
 
I'm running the stock twin scroll t3 hotside that came on the turbo.
Mated to what manifold?

If you're using a single-scroll manifold, that may be where some of your lost power and spool lies. Without a true twin-scroll manifold you're basically using a single-scroll 12cm2 turbine housing on your HX35, which is rather huge for a stock motor considering the HY35 works great with it's single-scroll 9cm2 housing and smaller turbine wheel.
 
Your right Justin I'm running a Megan open t3 with a tial 38mm external wg I welded on it it does make it noticeably more laggy I don't see full boost till 4000 rpm in 3rd

We tuned the car at 27 psi and it was flowing 44 lb/min at 7000 rpm if I remember correctly but I turned it down to 25 psi because I was getting knock on warmer days ( we tuned it in like 40* weather)
 
Do it. 67mm T4 on my 6-bolt rod & piston here. Tune has to be clean though! Car runs to 8500, have taken it to 9250 many times in the past.

ARP everything, ACL "Race" bearings and Mitsu MLS HG. Consider opening your ring gaps (maybe even P-to-Ws) a bit if this is on pump gas to deal with the heat.
 
Your right Justin I'm running a Megan open t3 with a tial 38mm external wg I welded on it it does make it noticeably more laggy I don't see full boost till 4000 rpm in 3rd

We tuned the car at 27 psi and it was flowing 44 lb/min at 7000 rpm if I remember correctly but I turned it down to 25 psi because I was getting knock on warmer days ( we tuned it in like 40* weather)
Without a properly-built twin-scroll manifold you basically have a .89 a/r turbine housing on your HX35. A HY35 would reduce lag and has a newer, more-efficient compressor wheel for boost levels near or above 30psi. The HY also uses the same oil lines and turbine housing outlet flange as the 12cm2 HX35 housing so it would a direct bolt-on. The trouble is finding one....they're only used on 99-02 automatic Dodge trucks.

44lb/min is within the realm of a 20G- there is definitely a lot more power to be had with cams and some help to your tuning before bailing completely for a turbo that's even larger than a HX40 for your modest ET / trap speed goal.
 
Without a properly-built twin-scroll manifold you basically have a .89 a/r turbine housing on your HX35. A HY35 would reduce lag and has a newer, more-efficient compressor wheel for boost levels near or above 30psi. The HY also uses the same oil lines and turbine housing outlet flange as the 12cm2 HX35 housing so it would a direct bolt-on. The trouble is finding one....they're only used on 99-02 automatic Dodge trucks.

44lb/min is within the realm of a 20G- there is definitely a lot more power to be had with cams and some help to your tuning before bailing completely for a turbo that's even larger than a HX40 for your modest ET / trap speed goal.

I think the tuning has a lot to do with it too, my an my friend tuned the car it was our first time messing with Dsmlink. There's only 3* peak timing on the car as one of my previous post stated we were having knock problems with higher boost I think the crappy Fmic has a lot to do with it.

Do it. 67mm T4 on my 6-bolt rod & piston here. Tune has to be clean though! Car runs to 8500, have taken it to 9250 many times in the past.

ARP everything, ACL "Race" bearings and Mitsu MLS HG. Consider opening your ring gaps (maybe even P-to-Ws) a bit if this is on pump gas to deal with the heat.

I don't want to touch the bottom end at all man I'm not good with that stuff at all. I just want to run the stock block how it Is, I have another 6 bolt block that I'm going to build this coming fall and go for some big numbers.
 
I think the tuning has a lot to do with it too, my an my friend tuned the car it was our first time messing with Dsmlink. There's only 3* peak timing on the car as one of my previous post stated we were having knock problems with higher boost I think the crappy Fmic has a lot to do with it.
There's something majorly wrong with your setup if you can only get 3* of peak timing. I'm pretty sure the HY35 link I gave you up above was done on 17-18*.

Start replacing some of the weak links like the head, cams, and intercooler then clean up your tune before bailing for a turbo that is way larger than you'll ever need just to make power. I'd much-rather own a 12-second car that is fun to drive than an 11-second car that only has 1600rpms of usable power in each gear.
 
You don't have to open it up, just something to consider as insurance if you decide to push the stock shortblock later.

Mine is something of an outlier because of the super-tall gearing and about as little back-pressure as possible.. but boost comes on much faster than expected. That's pretty much the first comment anyone who driven, ridden or dyno'd the car has made LOL

3rd gear WOT we're seeing positive pressure in the mid 3k range, full 25psi around 5250. On the freeway in 5th it's able to build 3-4psi as early as 2800rpm on level ground.

Full song from 5250-8500 or more if needed ain't bad. Better than many cars I've been in.
 
Sometimes it's just the timing curve that makes things knock happy, not til recently do i get 12* peak LOL

Was that on pump gas? I don't know why but we were having Knock problems 3* is all we could get with upper 20s psi. I want to go to a dyno this time but I'm afraid buschur will turn my car away and TPG tuning wanted 500 dollars to tune Dsmlink LOL they only charge 400 for aem? It doesn't make sense to me Dsmlink is easy as it gets.
 
A 6262 is way over kill for a stock bottom end based street car. You will hate driving it. I wouldnt consider that turbo unless I was 9.1 on a 2.0 or 2.4. I see that it seems like a good deal to you but you should be able to run that time on the turbo your currently running. It should be ideal for your goal. The HY is snappier in the mid range and I don't feel like im constantly down shifting like I did on the hx35 in a t3. I would look over your set up to see what holding you back. You mentioned the intercooler being 1 issue. Old knock sensors, catalytic converter or any restriction that could cause excessive back pressure will create issues for your tune. I was so eager in my previous build to constantly change things but never stopped to think about the high flow cat that had been on the car for 5 years could be causing my knock around 20psi. Its the little things that can cause some of your biggest headaches.

Ive ran the t3 hx35 on 9:1 8:5.1 and 7:8.1. I literally hated driving that turbo on the street using stock 1g compression. 9:1 with the same exact turbo and a smim which increases lag was the most fun set up to date. I had power all the time and could easily go up over the mountains out my way in 5th gear. I do not have any quarter mile times to prove anything just experience. I just wanted to give you something to think about.
 
A 6262 is way over kill for a stock bottom end based street car. You will hate driving it. I wouldnt consider that turbo unless I was 9.1 on a 2.0 or 2.4. I see that it seems like a good deal to you but you should be able to run that time on the turbo your currently running. It should be ideal for your goal. The HY is snappier in the mid range and I don't feel like im constantly down shifting like I did on the hx35 in a t3. I would look over your set up to see what holding you back. You mentioned the intercooler being 1 issue. Old knock sensors, catalytic converter or any restriction that could cause excessive back pressure will create issues for your tune. I was so eager in my previous build to constantly change things but never stopped to think about the high flow cat that had been on the car for 5 years could be causing my knock around 20psi. Its the little things that can cause some of your biggest headaches.

Ive ran the t3 hx35 on 9:1 8:5.1 and 7:8.1. I literally hated driving that turbo on the street using stock 1g compression. 9:1 with the same exact turbo and a smim which increases lag was the most fun set up to date. I had power all the time and could easily go up over the mountains out my way in 5th gear. I do not have any quarter mile times to prove anything just experience. I just wanted to give you something to think about.

My knock sensor and o2 sensor are both brand new oem less than 1000 miles on them. And I have a 3" straight pipe right off the turbo that's only 3-4' long so there really shouldn't be any back pressure at all.

If I could get the timing up on my car I bet that alone would deliver 20whp alone I would like to go to a shop to get tuned especially so I can see what actual power the car makes. To run that 11.50 I figure the car will need about 415whp or so my car weighs 3280 with me in it
 
From what I understand maxing that turbo out should net over 500whp so Im curious as to why your suffering so much. hx35 8 blades in a bolt on housing can make 400whp fairly easy.
 
Don't get me wrong the car runs good its just not enough I trapped 121 once with this setup that track was a fast track tho this turbo runs out of steam at 6500 on my car I'm guessing because of stock cams and springs. And in going by low reading mustang dyno numbers I bet I would make close to 400whp on a dyno jet as it sits now.
 
Thats not a slow car by any means. The valve train and cams are where its at as justin stated. I was running BC valve springs with Delta HKS 272 regrinds and I had a pretty sweet power band. It pulled hard from 3800 to 8500 rpm. I could go to 9k but I liked my comfort zone. The more you go top end with this the less streetable it will be on the lowest compression ratio dsms see. I dunno how much that matters to you but I do not prefer a car thats all top end. The biggest issue I started to run into with running rpms that high was getting locked out of gears. I think the most common issue with modifying any boosted car is people running too much turbo. I would not want that turbo for anything other then a larger displacement engine or drag car. Just my opinion though.
 
From the dyno graphs Ive seen on 3.0 Supras they arent hitting full spool till high 3 low 4k rpms on a 6 cylinder so I would imagine full spool on a 2.0 being around high 4 low 5k. It just seems really over kill to me.
 
I guess I'm just getting frustrated with my setup is all. The smart thing to do would be to get a divided manifold.. Good set of cams and springs.. And get a good tune and see what it does. I think my car would be super fun with around 420whp.

I have a comp stage 5 4 puck clutch it shifts nice I've ripped gears a few times off limiter at 7500 and it shifted ok
 
Was that on pump gas? I don't know why but we were having Knock problems 3* is all we could get with upper 20s psi. I want to go to a dyno this time but I'm afraid buschur will turn my car away and TPG tuning wanted 500 dollars to tune Dsmlink LOL they only charge 400 for aem? It doesn't make sense to me Dsmlink is easy as it gets.
You're dealing with the wrong people. If you're logging a wideband accurately, get a remote tune done- and Remote Tuning & Troubleshooting / https://www.facebook.com/RixRacing would be the place I'd start.
 
Get rid of that knock! 3* is pathetic timing and not doing that turbo any justice at all! I run 21* on my HX35 with aggressive timing down low and it spools like the 18g I used to run!

That low of timing on a stock block suggests carbon build-up contributing to the knock. Seafoam it!

What plugs and gap? What's your coolant temps?
 
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