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RWD 4G63 Subframe mod?

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If you're going to continue, could you at least try to start doing things the right way? Have you even put ANY thought into this cage?

So you have your main hoop, I see it is correct with a single piece of bent tube going from side to side. That is the ONLY piece of metal you have stuck in this car that is correct. You said you cut the cross bar at a 90* angle to the floor because of your elbow room... had you done a correct pillar bar, which is a piece of tube, bent from the back of the vehicle somewhere, to the roof line tying in the B pillar, then down the windshield to the floor, one piece. THEN you do your cross bars from the main hoop to the front pillar. By doing the roof "halo" (which is only a half halo in your case) the way you did, and now welding in the 24" or so filler pieces down the windshield, you have now again created a breaking point in the cage.

Just give up man. I see you aren't smart enough to be tacking this together to take it apart and fix as needed, you keep wasting metal.
 
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Oh boy !!!! Tsk tsk tsk !!! Cages and chassis rules arent there for decoration, they serve a purpose. SAFETY. No matter if you not going to track race, which I dont believe for a second safety is safety regardless or not of track or street use. Cages are built to safety guideliness.. on the other hand I canr understand wht you caging the car like a full race car for the street, a 6pt roll bar is enough for the street and that pushing the safety borderline to dangerous having a caged street car..
 
Those cross bars don't even meet in the middle. I can see you're off from here. And I can see the other side as well. It's not even straight.
 
I am not rationalizing anything I never said I would be taking my car to the track. I could care less if i pass tech spec. This car is being built for the streets.

The more and more I see this going on, it just makes me wonder. With a $5k budget and the way that you are wanting to do the car, just makes me shake my head. There are many people telling you that this is unsafe, from beginners to advanced. For 5 grand, you could have bought a small pickup truck, stripped the cab and bed, then bolted your body straight to the frame. That way it would have been rwd, be able to support the engine/trans, and would have been less fab work for your part and be 1000 times safer than what you have going on.
 
What do all of these cages have in common?

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Answer: they are designed correctly. Take a look at what they show and what you have. Even the one that looks like its drawn on a napkin is more simple, and twice as correct as what you have.
 
Just because you put tubing in a car and weld it how it looks in pictures, doesnt make it correct. And are you atleast using a tig. I think i already know the answer, but i figure ill ask.
 
Just because you put tubing in a car and weld it how it looks in pictures, doesnt make it correct. And are you atleast using a tig. I think i already know the answer, but i figure ill ask.

Not sure how that's relavent as long as you are getting good metal penetration. People have been mig welding cages for years.... And seriously comparing the strength of the cage to PVC you think if my bars are 3 degees off and don't make a straight line the cage will not work.... I'll give you a 30lbs sledge hammer come over and try to break my welds
 
It is very relevent. Roll cages are supposed to be welded with a tig. ANYBODY on here will tell you that to be true. U will not find a chassis shop doin cages with a tig.

Not sure how that's relavent as long as you are getting good metal penetration. People have been mig welding cages for years.... And seriously comparing the strength of the cage to PVC you think if my bars are 3 degees off and don't make a straight line the cage will not work.... I'll give you a 30lbs sledge hammer come over and try to break my welds

And yes, in an accident, if ## angles arent correct, and the metal isnt butted correctly ## gonna be sorry. Just answer me this. Why are you being so stubborn and not listening to ppl that have A LOT more experience then you with this kind of thing?
 
It is very relevent. Roll cages are supposed to be welded with a tig. ANYBODY on here will tell you that to be true. U will not find a chassis shop doin cages with a tig.



And yes, in an accident, if ## angles arent correct, and the metal isnt butted correctly ## gonna be sorry. Just answer me this. Why are you being so stubborn and not listening to ppl that have A LOT more experience then you with this kind of thing?

Why am I not listening the only thing "the people with a lot more experience" have told me was to throw my car out. If everyone gave me tips what bars I should add b.c I'm clearly to stubborn to scrap the idea maybe your input will save " an innocent bistandards life"
 
Because he is an attention whore, a know-it-all, and is above reproach from anyone. He's determined to get this car together and running because he thinks we're all just "haters" when in fact everyone here is just trying to help him.



I say #### this guy. Stop commenting, stop looking in here, completely ignore him. Bet he gives up with no one giving him any kind of attention.
 
Why am I not listening the only thing "the people with a lot more experience" have told me was to throw my car out. If everyone gave me tips what bars I should add b.c I'm clearly to stubborn to scrap the idea maybe your input will save " an innocent bistandards life"

Their saying scrap the car because you've done so much damage already. Chassis work needs to be done in steps. What you did with cutting the firewall was a big mistake, because now you have no way of knowing if the chassis has twisted or anything like that. By the liiks of how u cut it and how u cut the area for the trans, chances are its not gonna be strait. If you want to save this at all, i think you should start over. Because if you want it to be safe, you will pretty much have to re-do everything you have done. Your cage isnt installed correctly, the firewall is just wrong in every way, and the front section isnt right. Man if there was something good here, i would be the first person to tell ya. Im all about trying new stuff. But sometimes just jumping into something without doin the proper research isnt the way. Id say, do more research on chassis work, buy a new shell, and start over. Nobody here is gonna give you shit, or say anything negative. You will gain A LOT more respect for doing the right thing and wanting to be safe. I know u have a lot of time into this, and it will suck to toss. But were all trying to tell you that its in your best interest. And if you would start over and not just take everything negative, then ppl would be more willing to give you advice. But nobody wants to help you because all you have done is not listen to anything anybody has said. Im not trying to be a dick at all, and i know from how you have responded to other ppl, that your gonna think i am and just want you to fail. But all i can do is try to give you advice.
 
Why am I not listening the only thing "the people with a lot more experience" have told me was to throw my car out. If everyone gave me tips what bars I should add b.c I'm clearly to stubborn to scrap the idea maybe your input will save " an innocent bistandards life"

You know what that's called? Selective hearing. At this point you only want to hear what you want to hear. You can add all the bars you want. It'll be moot. The only way to save that is to get a straight frame from some other vehicle and throw the shell on top as a body on frame. Or build a complete cage. Or invest thousands in getting a way to make your frame straight and brace from there. Or you can just start over with another shell. How's that sound? Probably fell on deaf ears.
 
I tried suggesting both of those now and still nothing.

Why would my frame not be straight I used a plasma cutter not a hack saw and a hammer I did not force anything off the car I cut the pieces away.

Once you cut it without making a jig or bracing it, it has fallen out of square. It doesn't matter what you cut it with, without it being held true before the cut and after the weld, it will fall out of being square.

Also,haven't you ever seen metal twist while welding if everything is not clamped?
 
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Take a long cardboard box, box one end closed, leave the other end open. Put a cup or a wrench or anything weighing 1 pound on one corner near the open end. Use a square and tell me if that box is still maintaining 90* on all corners. Now put that box on top of four books of varying thicknesses at the corners and put weight in the center. Let me know how that turns out.
 
So.... Much... Fail... The corvair just lost it's title of "Unsafe at any speed".
 
This is just wrong on so many levels. I dont understand how you would put something like this together, sit back, and think to yourself "Ya, that looks safe."

You get an A for effort and drive.

But your preparation, planning and designs are completely flawed. You can get away with putting slight bends into your tubing, but pie cutting a roll cage at the base mounting points? Come on now.

Are you using a flux core mig welder for all of this?
 
Do yourself a great big favor...

Engineer to Win by Carroll Smith
Chassis Engineering by Herb Adams
Competition Car Suspension by Allan Staniforth
How to Build a Winning Drag Race Chassis and Suspension by Wayne Scraba
How to Build Motorcycle Engined Racing Cars by Tony Pashley
How to Make Your Car Handle by Fred Puhn
 
Do yourself a great big favor...

Engineer to Win by Carroll Smith
Chassis Engineering by Herb Adams
Competition Car Suspension by Allan Staniforth
How to Build a Winning Drag Race Chassis and Suspension by Wayne Scraba
How to Build Motorcycle Engined Racing Cars by Tony Pashley
How to Make Your Car Handle by Fred Puhn

Hmmm i might have to check a couple of them out myself!
 
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