Glad to help you out john.

donniekak said:

Please never use starting fluid.

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Elaborate?

I bled my slave cylinder today and now my car won't start everytime. I have to try at least 20 times and it might start. It don't click or anything. It acts like when you don't push clutch in and turn key. The battery is charged. I have clutch all the way down. Any ideas? Please help. 1997 eagle talon. 420a. All stock. Thank you guys

I would check to see if your starter has gone out. You can take the starter out of the car and test it using jumper cables. Hook the jumper cables to the battery. Then hook the ground cable to the case of the starter. Then hook the positive cable to the battery stud on the starter. Using a screwdriver short from the battery stud to the solenoid stud, this should make the plunger come out and spin the starter. If it does then it shows your solenoid is good. You can also test the starter motor itself by putting the ground on the case of the starter and then, with the positive cable just touch it to the motor stud on the starter. Again, the starter will spin and you'll know the starter motor is good. Lastly with the ground cable on the case and the positive cable on the the ignition stud you can test the override clutch. The plunger will pop out but the motor will not spin. If it pops out the override clutch is good. I'd also check to make sure you have battery voltage to the starter. If you don't, do a voltage drop test to see if you have a short somewhere. You could also test for continuity to the starter if you want. The fact that the car starts sometimes makes me think you have a battery, starter or possible ignition switch problem. Also check your connections and make sure everything is tight. Hope this helps.

GoodbyeSTI said:

Check the clutch sensor under the dash.

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+1 do this.

^ agree the clutch sensor can be the issue . Check your work go back look everything over that you touched or tweaked for the bleed job . It could be something small you missed rechecking is a + .

Car stalled on me getting up to highway speed between shifts (if I remember correctly). Pulled over and it wouldn't turn over but was trying to crank. The car is bone stock, so no loud Walbro 255 to hear, but I didn't hear any fuel pump at all when I switched it over to acc from off. What I do hear is a "click click click" under the throttle body area every time I switch from off to acc and again when I switch back. I tried to cut my teeth through the No Start diagnosis thread (I'm a complete newbie), so please don't post it as a sole response. I'm going to keep trying things in there but just wanted to know if these symptoms screamed anything to anyone. The timing belt is tight, there's fuel in the tank, Also I just switched out the Ignition Control Module.

Thanks for any help, it's greatly needed (dd not running) and appreciated.

Check all your grounds, make sure your battery terminals are tight.

lewishamilton said:

I tried to cut my teeth through the No Start diagnosis thread (I'm a complete newbie), so please don't post it as a sole response. I'm going to keep trying things in there but just wanted to know if these symptoms screamed anything to anyone.

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iugrad92turbo said:

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-miscellaneous/217951-how-diagnose-no-start.html

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What was the point of that?

lewishamilton said:

What was the point of that?

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Either way your original thread got merged through here, so the post should have began here to resolve issue. We need more info than you are posting, if you just hear clicking, then you need to check battery negative terminal and positive. Make sure you have contact on the battery posts. Clean of any corrosion and you have a fresh contact surface.

Start checking out those things on the thread it could be anything mentioned.

I ran my car low on fuel to the point it was jumping, hesitating and beginning to run lean I shut off the car and get it towed home (I was about 29 miles from the nearest gas station) and today I put in 3 gallons of fuel and no start. Cranks over, and sometimes sputters. I have spark, I am getting fuel and I haven't done a compression test. Oil also smells like oil possibly from continuous cranking and flooding the motor... Could anybody maybe tell me what's going on? Also I should mention, my fuel gauge stopped working it stays just below E, possibly related?

ill give it a try!

i had an issue with my car, basically the original ingition cables broke inside and it was arcing across the break and melkting the plug from the inside. might need new cables. also had the problem of the cables coming lose at the coils, and make sure you have the cables plugged in the right order on the coils.

So after a number of days reading and following troubleshooting threads I still haven't found the cause of my no start. I need your guys help.

Background: Left dinner last Monday night and was sitting at a red light. Went to take off once green, and I thought I accidentally snubbed it out. Ok, np, tried to start it, but only cranked. So grabbed my jump pack since it had been in the 10s and tried again, no go. Guy in Silverado 1500 pulled up and offered a jump. With tons of extra juice I figured easy. Wrong, just cranked a bunch, still no fire. So we tow-strapped to near parking lot. (note the only CEL light stored was the rear O2 sensor circuit one due to exhaust).

Next day I tried new plugs, disconnecting battery, listen for fuel pump, and spray in starting fluid. New plugs, no change. Battery reset, no change. Friend couldn't hear pump from outside at filler, but with backseat off and cover open, we could hear it whirl-whirl-whirl as car cranked. Sprayed starting fluid in intake before throttle body and still no start.

So after getting towed home, I started testing with Haynes manual, and forum "how to diag a no start" and "no start merged thread." (sorry if I should have posted there and added to the end in that thread instead of this one).

Checks completed:
Visually checked ground, wires, connectors, and cleaned a little rust off negative battery terminal and grounds running to it. Perhaps I missed something?
ECU removal and inspection = Flawless, no discolor or smell on top or bottom. (took pics in case).
MFI removal, inspection, & test = Good, using test in Haynes, Left relay pins 2/4 test @ 68.5 ohms, and pins 1/3 test @ 00.1-00.3 ohms. Right relay exact same figures.
Coil Packs test = Secondary resistance, Left (1/4) @ 11.85 K, Right (2/3) @ 12.40 K.
Spark Plug Wires = Good, No visual crack or distress, 40-50 ohms per foot (MSD super conductors. Installed in 2005).
Power Transistor = Tested using method in Haynes manual (continuity with 1.5v battery), 1/4 (pins 3/8) pass, 2/3 (pins 1/3) pass.
ECT = Appears good. Connector @ 2.32 K Ohms, Sensor 4.83 ohms. I also have ECU+ piggyback on the car and took two logs, one with the ECT unplugged, and another with it plugged back in. Unplugged read -74 F, plugged in 41 F.
CAS = Appears good. Key ON, Black gets continuity, BLU/RED @ 5.04 volts, RED @ 11.25. Cranking BLU/RED @ 0.4, 2.8, 3, 1.8 volts varying.
CPS = Unsure due to cranking voltage. Key ON, Black gets continuity, BLU/RED @ 5.04 volts, RED @ 12.12 volts. Cranking BLU/RED @ 5, 4.9 volts.

Using extra spark plug and holding to valve cover and top engine lift point while cranking, no spark on all four (4) cylinders in both locations. Does this mean that the PT or Coils can still pass tests but be bad?

Also, through entire testing process there were no check engine codes logged or pending until after I tested the CPS. After I tested the CPS I noticed the CEL was staying on now, plugged in laptop, and now it has P0335 (CPS 'A' Circuit) & P0115 ECT Circuit. No rear O2 sensor circuit code anymore though (probably because of unplugged battery for long enough to clear?)

Summary: Thought I killed it at light while trying to go on green, but now won't even spark on all four (4) cylinders. Testing all came back as passing from what I saw, but at the end CEL light staying on and now codes P0335 & P0115.

Is there anything that stands out to you guys from reading this? Thanks so much!

- Jim

Can you hear your fuel pump turn on?

Do you have a rewired fuel pump? IF so check the seperate fuse it has.

I had same problem, car turned of at light and just cranked. Everything check out fine.

Fuel pump was not engaging due to blown fuse or corroded fuse.


Hope this helps.

Vdubz - Completely stock fuel pump setup. Are you talking about the MFI relay that you can hear click on when turning key to ON?

Ignore my post dude i reread the post and saw you checked fuel.

IF the pump is whirling and you hear it buzzing then the MFI should be working properly.

Also when u added starter fluid the car didnt start, it can cross out the fuel problem.

Spectre86 Did you get this fixed? I have a 95 gst with similar symptoms. The starter and battery are new. good connections. Starter motor clicks and won't start. Then out of the blue it cranks normal. You mention the starter relay? Thanks for any follow up.

If you put a new battery in, and overnight it was dead it suggests there's either something draining the battery or the alternator isn't charging properly (or both). Have you checked both of those items as well? A few minutes with a test light will confirm if you have a drain or not.

My car used to do this on occasion -- make sure the igniter is properly connected. On my car the connector was broken and would randomly come off causing this problem.

The only other thing I can suggest is try swapping the starters. I also had an issue where the starter would short internally and draw enough amperage that the ignition system wouldn't always fire.

Battery and starter were replaced essentially at the same time. No time to drain. It just clicks and then I walk away for a bit and then come back and try it and it starts normally. Thanks for the post.

Is the engine actually turn over or just the starter. If the cam gears are not turning you may have a timing belt issue. Remove the cam gear cover and give that a look. If the timing belt broke a suspect you might have done a good bit of damage by consistently swinging to get it to start.

daplatano91 said:

Is the engine actually turn over or just the starter. If the cam gears are not turning you may have a timing belt issue. Remove the cam gear cover and give that a look. If the timing belt broke a suspect you might have done a good bit of damage by consistently swinging to get it to start.

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Just went and double checked to be sure, and cams are spinning, as well as the timing marks on the cams still perfectly aligned.