Actually, the 6152 is one of the worst turbos in DSM bolt-on form.

- Poor reliability due to a weak thrust system if you're unfortunate enough to have a journal bearing model.

- Super-restrictive turbine housing that limits airflow production, raises EGT's, and burns the inducer tips off the turbine wheel if you're pushing the turbo to the max.

- It's a 65 lb/min compressor that is limited to about 52-55 lb/min due to the turbine restriction. If you consider it a 52-55 lb/min turbo, it's the slowest-spooling out of the other turbos in that airflow range.


If you're looking for something similar to the 6152 that spools faster, the HX35 is for you. If you're looking for something that spools similar but has far higher airflow production and responds better to higher boost levels, the HX40 is the clear winner. Both are more-reliable when oiled properly.

Perfect! Thank you!
Thats what I was thinking. I know its an older turbo and is no longer efficent.
My plan is to make over 500. Ive heard from a few people who have hx35 that they max out at about 550. Is this true?

If you're satisfied with the way the 6152 spools but you want the ability to make 500+whp while staying in a DSM bolt-on turbine housing, the HX40 is exactly what you're looking for.

Not sure what kind of wastegate setup you currently have (internal/external), but for that power level it's highly-recommended that you use an external gate.

I have a tail 44mm external wastegate. Since I am upgrading tirbo im going from stock flange exhaust mani to t3 with am hx40 correct?

You can run a HX40 on the stock manifold using a Bullseye Power DSM bolt-on turbine housing.

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What about a FP black? they cost $799. That bolt on housing is almost $300 without the cost of the HX40, i'm saying because i sold my 6152 that i had to rebuild etc and now i'm in the same boat looking for options

Not sure how durable the journal bearing Black would be at boost levels where the HX40 doesn't even break a sweat. At the end of the day the Black still based on the same center housing design as a factory 14B....and there must be a reason the Black is no longer offered in journal bearing format in any other platform than ours.

JusMX141 said:

Not sure how durable the journal bearing Black would be at boost levels where the HX40 doesn't even break a sweat. At the end of the day the Black still based on the same center housing design as a factory 14B....and there must be a reason the Black is no longer offered in journal bearing format in any other platform than ours.

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yeah good point, i have a hx40 in the garage that i could use, only need the bolt on housing

Thanks guys. lots of good helpful info.

Bay looks nice- what dipstick are you using?

Im not sure what it is. The guy who had it before me did it and I havent touched it.
Is there one I should be using?

The factory 2G dipstick looks nothing like that...I'm just wondering how accurate it's reading!

2G left, 1G right....they're interchangeable as they're both the same length, just the handle is different.

JusMX141 said:

The factory 2G dipstick looks nothing like that...I'm just wondering how accurate it's reading!

2G left, 1G right....they're interchangeable as they're both the same length, just the handle is different.

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His looks like the oil dip stick in my ram1500

ive been told the 6152 is capable of 450-500 in the bolt on housing, would switching to a t3 housing on the 6152 not be worth it? would it really make more sense to switch to a holset? im currently runnign a ball bearing 6152 in a bolt on housing and have a t3 housing in the garage for it

@Sexystover

The t3 would be a big upgrade. Its still a PTE hotside but at least its guaranteed to be less restrictive. I would just use what you have. I mean, its gonna cost upgrading the mani and getting a custom DP built. That might be higher than the cost of a used hx40 and bep depending on what t3 mani you get. But in the end you WOULD have t3. You have to weigh the benefits and if you think you may go t3 eventually, then now would be a great time.

My plan is to get rid of the 6152 and do an hx40 which then I will need a t3 mani.
I also have a slight problem with my dump tube.... when i bought the car it was pointing directly onto my inner cool piping.
is there a benefit to the stock dipstick? or just keep the one i have and check if its accurate or not?

I would keep the one you have like Justin said its just a different handle. Welcome to the site always nice to see women with interest in cars here.

Thank you!

Justin was saying the handles are different between 1g and 2g which the op's looks to be neither. I say get the correct one to be safe.

Good to know! it will def be something i will look into with the motor rebuild!

girldriven said:

I also have a slight problem with my dump tube.... when i bought the car it was pointing directly onto my inner cool piping.

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You can either re-route the intercooler piping somehow, cut / modify the dump tube to face another direction, or snag some flexible exhaust tubing at an auto parts store to move the exhaust flow out of the engine bay or at least lower than the intercooler piping.

girldriven said:

is there a benefit to the stock dipstick? or just keep the one i have and check if its accurate or not?

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Knowing the correct oil level and not causing engine damage is the big winner here.

It's possible the previous owner cut and marked the current dipstick so it's the same as the OEM stick, but then again it's also possible they just threw a dipstick in there out of a 1987 Plymouth Voyager and didn't do shit to it otherwise.

Better safe than sorry, especially when a new stock dipstick is +/- $20.

I value your opinion and experience but it's always the same pte this pte that garbage. I've had my 6152re for years with no problem. Not saying im the norm but the same goes the other way. This turbo made 500+ years ago on a little mitsu hotisde.

Imback said:

I've had my 6152re for years with no problem.

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Ball bearing = no thrust system to fail prematurely.

PTE ball bearing turbos don't seem to have the random and unexpected failure issues that their journal bearing models do.

Imback said:

This turbo made 500+ years ago on a little mitsu hotisde.

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As would be expected for a turbo using a 65 lb/min GT35R compressor wheel. Coming from personal experience, had you swapped to a .63 or .82 T3 housing the spool would've stayed nearly the same as the DSM-flanged housing but airflow production would've gone up considerably.

So I m looking into a pte 6152 mfs in t3 .63 hotside, in other words t3 makes the turbo more efficient and reliable? Looking for 450whp on stock 6bolt on e85 272 bc cams, Manley valve springs, 1120cc injectors, walbro 255, and aero motive a100 fuel pressure regulater, dsmlink v3, full 3 inch exhaust, built tranny and stage 4 comp clutch, also got arp head studs and mls head gasket