The Top DSM Community on the Web

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. Log in to remove most ads.

Please Support Kiggly Racing
Please Support ExtremePSI

95 GSX 2.3 stroker street build

This site may earn a commission from merchant
affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

DSM_GSX01

10+ Year Contributor
985
13
Jul 27, 2011
La Junta, Colorado
I am currently building a 2.3 stroker engine for my GSX. I have got some of the parts in and will be taking pictures. I am shooting for a goal of 500hp. I will have forged internals along with balance shaft elimination. :thumb:

The parts list:

Manley forged pistons
Manley forged crank
Manley forged rods
ARP main studs
ARP head studs
Head gasket( cosmet or MLS)
272 cams not to sure about yet
FP Green turbo
1250cc injectors
Dsmlink V3 lite
EGR block off plate

and more parts to come soon. :hellyeah:

This is the crank i got. It is a 2.3 stroker 100mm Manley crank.
 

Attachments

  • 2.3 crank.jpeg
    2.3 crank.jpeg
    44 KB · Views: 178
  • 2.3 crank 2.jpeg
    2.3 crank 2.jpeg
    49.7 KB · Views: 201
  • 2.3 crank 3.jpeg
    2.3 crank 3.jpeg
    47.7 KB · Views: 199
Just ordered parts this week and should be in the mail. And the block is at the machinist now. As soon as i get some parts I will have some picture. I am trying to get pictures of the block. but i live 2 hours away from the machinist. :( . I will update as soon as possible. thanks :thumb:
 
Update. These are the newest pictures of my 2.3 stroker.:thumb:. Jacks Transmission is the one that did all the machine work and put it together. Thanks Jacks.:hellyeah:. They took the pictures of the engine going together for me thanks Jack.:thumb:.


100mm OEM crank
Manley H beam rods/with ARP-2000
Wiseco Forged 2.3 Pistons
BSE kit
Oil pump with straight cut gears
ARP main studs
 

Attachments

  • w.jpg
    w.jpg
    8.3 KB · Views: 731
  • crank.jpg
    crank.jpg
    11.9 KB · Views: 739
  • grinding 2.jpg
    grinding 2.jpg
    8 KB · Views: 719
  • grinding.jpg
    grinding.jpg
    7.9 KB · Views: 751
  • OEM 7 bolt forged crank.jpg
    OEM 7 bolt forged crank.jpg
    8.7 KB · Views: 743
  • Manley H beam rods.jpg
    Manley H beam rods.jpg
    11.1 KB · Views: 740
  • piston rod combo.jpg
    piston rod combo.jpg
    9.3 KB · Views: 730
  • fresh new block.jpg
    fresh new block.jpg
    10.9 KB · Views: 738
  • cramk,pistons,rods.jpg
    cramk,pistons,rods.jpg
    10.2 KB · Views: 746
  • caps.jpg
    caps.jpg
    9.2 KB · Views: 739
I have got some new pictures. I will be putting them up. I hope im making a good journal for everyone to read. I haven't got any feed back yet on my build. I hope to have some to and have some tips on my build. Any help would be great. Thanks
 

Attachments

  • 2.3 top pic.jpg
    2.3 top pic.jpg
    8.6 KB · Views: 673
  • 2.3 side pic2.jpg
    2.3 side pic2.jpg
    9.7 KB · Views: 666
  • 2.3 side pic.jpg
    2.3 side pic.jpg
    10 KB · Views: 657
  • 2.3 rear pic.jpg
    2.3 rear pic.jpg
    9.2 KB · Views: 662
  • 2.3 front pic.jpg
    2.3 front pic.jpg
    10.1 KB · Views: 653
  • 2.3 bottom pic.jpg
    2.3 bottom pic.jpg
    10.5 KB · Views: 663
Engine is almost done. I have just cams and spring kit to order. then the block is together almost just need trimming and stuff now

Ok I am doing my next build project now its winter. I am doing a fuse box relocation and battery relocation to trunk. I will be posting picture on this build here. :thumb: I like feed back so tell me if i can up grade something. Thanks
 
Dustin could you tell me what the rod length center to center is and what the compression height of the pistons is?
If the rods and pistons are off-the-shelf items (not custom) it would be nice to know the part numbers for them.
It would be cool if you could post a full resolution (big) version of that one picture you have above, because it would show where the wrist pin goes relative to the oil ring groove and skirt and so-forth. I'll post a copy of the one I mean below.
The crank is a Manley? or is it from like a 4g64 or something?

ehdm.png
 
Cool - Thanks!

That rod chart on the Manley page is a good one. They give "big end width" which is something I've been wondering about. Here you can see that the 6 bolt and 7 bolt have different big end width.

The piston compression height I see is 1.130 inches. There are some good closeup pictures of Wiseco pistons with that compression height on the English Racing web site, so I think yours will look the same as far as how the pin bore goes into the oil ring groove and so-forth. That is the CH they use with 153mm rods and 94mm stroke in 4g63 builds that come out to about 2.16 liters, which is a way I might go. They think the 1.130 CH is OK, and I think that's about as far up as I would want the pin to go. Some of the 100mm stroke builds use a CH less than that, with longer rods.
So, all very interesting. I hope it works great for you and runs for 300,000 miles - like my stock Toyota! :thumb:
 
Nice build man, keep up the good work. I see you havent decided on cams yet. If i may for your setup i would run the gsc s2 cams. They should be perfect for you. They make some quality stuff.
 
Yea i think i am going with GSC S2 and their Hi-Rev valve springs. Should be a good head set up. Oh i am getting ARPs. And MLS head gasket.

If i can up grade on any were on my head let me know. Thanks
 
Yea its coming along. I have the block in my house and wrapped up in plastic. I hope to get the money for the head soon though.
 
I just noticed the comment above about battery relocation to the trunk. I'd be interested in some details about that. Are you doing it to make room for the upper intercooler pipe? What I've noticed is that with any of the aftermarket intake manifolds like Magnus, JMF, and so-forth, they put the throttle body farther outboard, which moves the uicp farther outboard, and it goes right through the battery, so the battery has to be relocated. That would be my reason for doing it at some point.

I think most people just drop the battery to a lower position, way below the stock position, where there is some room. But then you have to pull off all kinds of stuff just to get at your battery connections. I think a trunk mount would be cool. I'd be interested in seeing where you run the big cable under the car, how you do a battery box, and venting to the outside, etc.

I do have a BMW with stock trunk-mount battery and man that is done right. That is a year 2000 BMW 5 series. The aftermarket batteries (like NAPA) that are made for the car are made with the proper vent-to-a-hose arrangement for this. The vent hose goes out into, I think, the real wheel well. I don't know if it is really necessary to go to all that trouble, but that is one very good way of doing it.
 
There is a couple reasons why i am moving it to trunk. I have tried dropping my battery on sub-frame and just don't like how it sits and if i was to ever need to change my battery i might have to pull my transmission. So i didn't like the sound of that. And i run a Optima Red top battery so its big. The other reason is because i am getting a JMF drag intake. I also am closing up all my hole in both fenders to make it clean. I can post up a picture of my battery on the sub-frame. I am taking pictures tomorrow of my progress.
 
Well i have made some progress on the car. I have got my wiring harness out. I am also going to clean my interior up. I have the black dash in my car now i did have a gray dash in it. I need a black center console. I also had to get rid of my leather seats when i got the car they were so horrible. I want black leather seats.

Now that i have the harness out the fun is starting.
 
I like the engine set up, ive got some manelys on my next build got my spare block and head to work
with, got my mind set on the goal of the car. A clean 1gb occasional track car and a beast on the streets, horse power not yet determined with a tight suspension, a ways to go but im getting there. What turbo you got in case I missed it.
 
Im gonna run the FP black. I was going to go with a 20g but i then found a FP. And a 20g wont get me in my power range goal.
 
Yes I like that one too its still on sale but ive got other things to address. could be the last one I buy when I look at my goals.
 
Yea i want a turbo that is bolt on stock no modifications. I also want a 3"cat back exhaust. I am doing some research on ones that are popular and ones that have sold alot.
 
Update today. I have done a lot sense i last posted on here. I got my cams and springs ordered for the head yesterday. I also got my fenders in the bay almost done to make them closed. I got everything in the hatch complete also. I just need to repaint. I need to take more pictures the ones i had got deleated in my phone. I also need to figure out on my hatch i did the conversion with if it will work on my 95. Because i did the 97-99 swap with the whole hatch.

Sorry for a late update on the build. Pictures in a day or so.
 
Good looking build. I went with the black and gsc s2s as well. I used a magnus smim and I just bought a smaller (honda) battery ha ha what are you lacking on the motor and fuel delivery?
 
I still need to get the head studs and gasket. After that I'm going to get my 1150 or 1250 injectors. I'm going to use the stock intake manifold for now. Then i need to decide on clutch.
 
Sound like you've been busy you cant go wrong with either one of those injectors still haven chosen I like the 1150s.
 
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community
Boosted Fabrication ECM Tuning ExtremePSI Fuel Injector Clinic Innovation Products Jacks Transmissions JNZ Tuning Kiggly Racing Morrison Fabrications MyMitsubishiStore.com RixRacing RockAuto RTM Racing STM Tuned

Latest posts

Build Thread Updates

Vendor Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top