1- Your wordplay is so unoriginal it is abysmal
2- This is not entertaining in the least. Not in any satirical/sarcastic/literal/metaphorical sense whatsoever, or any other form the universe can fathom.

Good day to you troll.

thank you for contributing insults, gross obnoxious decor and overall evil spirits to my thread. you need a hug bro? BTW, would you would happen to have experience with "shimmying" and could offer some perspective on my question?

You might get more positive and informative replies if the corny jokes were not in the mix. its Just to much.

You must set bearing clearances by shimming. You need to get the factory manual and read up. You will need a micrometer, not a caliper. Based on you previous post you do not know what you are doing.

Practicing your standup routine? Like we used to say in grade 2: so funny I forgot to laugh

thank you, thank you... especially for any applauses for my corny jokes. I mighta smoked a little bit beforehand and things tend to get funny in my head. I'll try to tone that down in the future. . keep my threads focused.

micrometer really? dude used a caliper and chunks of solder like I said and I only replaced the differential and it's tight as right before I took it apart. Paulyman, based on your posts you sound like your know what you're doing. you sound like a friggin nascar mech. sorry, don't know where the conversation was going there. your wrench is bigger than mine. I get it. what post you referring to? the ring at the end of steering rack? see how I figured that conundrum out all on my very own? big pat on my back!

I like you tho Pauly man. you always come thru with the big knowledge & wisdom but just always leave me wanting more on the 'why's' of engineering and life in general. is just what happens with the vacuum of information between us. no biggie. thanks as always.

I have no idea what the problem is with someone adding some humor whether you find it funny or not. Anyways to answer your question your transmission won't blow up or anything but if you did not check clearances (which is a bigger deal when replacing sections like a bell housing if it cracked) the transmission just might not shift as well. The debris should clear out with the first or second fluid change.

and cheer up guys unless you want coal.

juntjoo said:

BECAUSE I only changed the differential and it checked out by my dual arm jiggle test. Seems pretty tight. Zero shakeage as far as my arms could detect.

Click to expand...

Bet you got a calibrated torque wrench in that arm too. And shoot lasers out of your eyes to precisely measure something.

I compared myself to Mad Max, not inspector gadget. anyway, thanks for replies. just needed some input on this new situation.

I'm not going to spoon feed anybody. If I remember correctly FWD uses taper bearings on the front diff. You did not JUST change a diff. You changed the bearing clearances. If you just removed the old shafts and put them back in you do not need to reshim. Anytime you change a component or bearings you have to reshim. "feeling" right and being right are two different things. Can you tell the differerence between .002 end play and .002 preload by feel? Didn't think so. Do it right or do it twice. There is no other way. And once again a caliper is not the right tool for the job. A micrometer is the right tool. Have I rebuilt one? Yes, many many times.

alright, since I'm here I will do the measurement. thanks

hey paulyman or anyone for that matter, what is the safest way to remove these gears? I don't want to use two big screw drivers like I did last time, and the gear pullers I've found, the guillotine looking kind, can't fit under there with oil guide and that shift rail popping up there(that sleeve part would be removed), and the jaw type pullers can't get under the gears here. pic for reference:



so what's safe? I got the screw driver idea from some LSD install guide I believe but I chipped a synchro gear a little. I bought some flat metal spatula shaped scrapers to try next(just like the two flat head screw driver idea but flatter). i was thinking as a last resort find some metal I can sand down to a taper to slip under there, perhaps something wide enough I can cut a space in the front to go around the shaft to really get around the gear. thanks in advance...

or... does the gear come off easy once I remove the synchro assembly(with one of those jaw pullers?). I believe that is correct no? I forgot already how it all worked out the first time(pre-lsd install). if that's the case, where does the assembly start? the bottom-most brass synchro ring correct?

okay, got synchro assembly off with 3 jaw puller rental but as you can see you can't under there with such little space, but I cut pennies in half and stuffed them under the brass rings which gave the jaws something to fit under. but if anyone can tell me a better way or if there is an actual tool that would get under there on its own I'm curious. thanks

You could have removed the hub first. You need to use a lot less sealant.

that was an old pic. cleaned off that rtv already, and hub off, if you mean that sleeve part that slides up/down.

anyway, I think I could use a shim, like .1mm to add to the already existing 1mm, or do they make them in like 1.1mm sizes? what's the quickest way to get these? local tranny shop, dealer, big brand name stores...?

and what about gasket thickness? don't you have to do this test with the rtv in? in which case you'd have to be quick.

and look at what this one guy in here said:

" I preload all shafts. You will be amazed at how quick the 2-3, and 3-4 shifts can be with a preloaded input shaft. You will also have less of a chance of breaking the teeth off of 3rd or 4th gear..."

what's that about? sounds cool. i think I shall play around with different fits no? I can get the basic feel for it right here on my work bench no(out of the car)? is the risk squeezing the shafts?

Make that the sleeve

hey so where do I get a the best price on a kit of these shims?

Dealer.

Thre is no kit. Oem part, one at a time. There is a reason there are a lot of shim part numbers.

$12.02. ouch

so after tightening the case down you should be able to hand turn the transmission(using an axle shaft) right? if so not only did not need a spacer but I'll need to remove the one that was in there. I don't get it.

well actually, I just learned that with zero spacers, bolts tightened to 29ft/lbs, it gets seized, unless I loosen the bolts. not sure how loose exactly they need to be but... so how does this work?

Nothng should seize with zero spacers. What is seizing. How are you measuring for spacers. What measuring tools?

I had to use a clutch disk on the input shaft to rotate the gears after all preloads were set and gears lubed up and cases were torqued down. Trans shifts flawlessly in car with no problems. I ordered my shims from twicks69 on this site.
Edit: if there's no shims, the shafts are probably binding up on each other's gears, or the dif is hitting the case.

I used a new micrometer. the whole transmission is seized. without shims tightened fully I can barely move it by hand. stick one shim in, either one, I bought a .043 and had a .046, tighten down I can't move it. I'm turning it by hand with the short axle put in the differential.

should I put the old differential back in to double check that it originally was good? I'd have to throw the gear back on it. I did a quick visual check of my bearing installation on my Lsd and they're fully seated. what next?

will have to check in a couple hrs but could it be any of the bearing races not being put back in their seats fully as I did perform the solder test on all shafts and had to mallet them all back in?

Why are you using the output shaft to rotate the gears?
Second question, have you shimmed the other shafts properly?
Putting the other diff in will not tell you what's binding, or why its binding.

well, it was sitting right there and I didn't think of anything else I guess. as far as the other shafts I'll have to double check. be back in a few hrs...