Mifff
10+ Year Contributor
- 30
- 1
- Aug 16, 2012
-
Colorado Spr,
Colorado
I purchased a 93 Talon about a year ago and I have been catching up on years of neglected maintenance. I have now come into a problem where the car is notchy to shift. I know there are a lot of threads on this and I have tried to read them all first.
This is what I have done so far:
1. I rebuilt both master and slave cylinders (OEM rebuilds)
2. I rebuilt the pedal assembly (brand new parts from JNZ)
3. I replaced the line from the master-> slave with a SS braided line.
4. I bled the system 2-3 times and removed the restrictor in the slave as well.
- includes pushing in the clutch and slaves as much as possible and then using a vacuum to try and flush out bubbles.
- I picked up a speed bleeder for the slave to eliminate as much user error as possible.
I did step on the spring in the slave cylinder accidentally when I was reassembling it. It's slightly bent but I don't know if that really matters.
I cannot adjust the slave like in Jacks clutch adjustment video. Jack says that the slave will have fluid in it and it should be easy to push back into the cylinder. On my cylinder the slave always collapses fully when I release the clutch. I don't know if this means that the relief valve is staying open since no fluid stays in the slave or something else is the matter.
I started trying to adjust the clutch with the adjustment rod all the way in (pedal on the floor) and the clutch operates best with the rod almost out of the clevis. I saw this thread about putting a 2g adjustment rod in the master to get additional travel. I don't want to do this but i'm currently stumped on how to fix this one.
When I disassembled the old slave the slave rod was bent, so I replaced that with another from the junkyard of the same length, could the rod have also bent the fork? I would think not but i never rule anything out until I've replaced it or made sure it's within spec.
My observations are that it's hard to get into 1st, the rest of the gears aren't to bad but I can feel it hit (or what I assume to be) the synchro and stop for a fraction of a second before going in. I have replaced the shifter bushings with the Symborski ones. The ends going into the transmission are still rubber.
I will be going to the junkyard tomorrow to pick up a 2g adjustment rod because I would really like to drive this car a bit before it gets unbearably cold but if I could get some suggestions on what I might have missed I am open to suggestions as I would prefer to do it right over fast.
This is what I have done so far:
1. I rebuilt both master and slave cylinders (OEM rebuilds)
2. I rebuilt the pedal assembly (brand new parts from JNZ)
3. I replaced the line from the master-> slave with a SS braided line.
4. I bled the system 2-3 times and removed the restrictor in the slave as well.
- includes pushing in the clutch and slaves as much as possible and then using a vacuum to try and flush out bubbles.
- I picked up a speed bleeder for the slave to eliminate as much user error as possible.
I did step on the spring in the slave cylinder accidentally when I was reassembling it. It's slightly bent but I don't know if that really matters.
I cannot adjust the slave like in Jacks clutch adjustment video. Jack says that the slave will have fluid in it and it should be easy to push back into the cylinder. On my cylinder the slave always collapses fully when I release the clutch. I don't know if this means that the relief valve is staying open since no fluid stays in the slave or something else is the matter.
I started trying to adjust the clutch with the adjustment rod all the way in (pedal on the floor) and the clutch operates best with the rod almost out of the clevis. I saw this thread about putting a 2g adjustment rod in the master to get additional travel. I don't want to do this but i'm currently stumped on how to fix this one.
When I disassembled the old slave the slave rod was bent, so I replaced that with another from the junkyard of the same length, could the rod have also bent the fork? I would think not but i never rule anything out until I've replaced it or made sure it's within spec.
My observations are that it's hard to get into 1st, the rest of the gears aren't to bad but I can feel it hit (or what I assume to be) the synchro and stop for a fraction of a second before going in. I have replaced the shifter bushings with the Symborski ones. The ends going into the transmission are still rubber.
I will be going to the junkyard tomorrow to pick up a 2g adjustment rod because I would really like to drive this car a bit before it gets unbearably cold but if I could get some suggestions on what I might have missed I am open to suggestions as I would prefer to do it right over fast.
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