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This too. And all you would have to do is measure out the 2g rad abd just simple change the top neck. But if its not aluminum you should just use a 2g spyder or 8g galant rad.

Oops, I meant 7g and not 8g. I changed my previous post. Basically any motor with the 2.4.
 
Can someone sell a 1g radiator with the alignment pins on the bottom spaced for a 2g?
I know I could buy a 1g and cut the pins and move them but thats a pain.
We cant even buy nice radiator hoses, we have to buy both sets for a 1g and a 2g and use one hose from each kit.
If someone sold a 1g rad that fit in a 2g, we could reap the benefits of being able to just buy just a 1g rad hose kit. We would also benefit from the upper hose being routed away from our exhaust manifolds. Being that most of us dont run heat shields.
I'm confused. I modified my 1G rad to work in my 2G, it wasn't even that hard. Took 20 min to cut off the mounting pins and mark where I wanted them, then got it welded up. Painless. Outside of that, I don't see how the mounting points moving to a different location makes the radiator hose situation any different. I still needed a different upper hose. The hoses are still at different angles on the 2G because of the different water necks, so I'm confused as to your premise. Are you talking about special hoses made just for people that swap 1G radiators into a 2G?
 
I'm confused. I modified my 1G rad to work in my 2G, it wasn't even that hard. Took 20 min to cut off the mounting pins and mark where I wanted them, then got it welded up. Painless. Outside of that, I don't see how the mounting points moving to a different location makes the radiator hose situation any different. I still needed a different upper hose. The hoses are still at different angles on the 2G because of the different water necks, so I'm confused as to your premise. Are you talking about special hoses made just for people that swap 1G radiators into a 2G?

I have a 6 bolt motor in my 2g, full 6 bolt longblock. I currently have a 1g lower rad hose and a 2g upper rad hose to go to my 2g rad. No one sells silicone rad hoses in a set for my setup. I would have to buy a set of 1g hoses and a set of 2g hoses and pull a hose from each set.
Or I could buy a 1g rad and and use a 1g upper and 1g lower hose.
I do not have the means to weld aluminum nor do I feel like finding a place to weld it.
I get what everyone is saying, thats its easy to mod the rad yourself.
But its way easier for a company like mishimoto to do it for me. They make 1g and 2g rads, how hard is it for them to mount the pins in the 2g location on a 1g rad? They are already welding pins on, not hard for them to move them a 1/2" wider and weld them on.
Its 10x easier for them to do it while they are making it, rather than me having to modify it myself.
I dont see what the big deal is about this request, everyones getting so defensive over it.
Its a very simple request for people like me who dont have access to someone who welds aluminum. I have done tons of custom work on my car, but If I can get a vendor to produce what I need and save me time and money, why wouldnt I try? And its costs the vendor no extra time or money to do, just simply weld the pin in a different location...
 
I have a 6 bolt motor in my 2g, full 6 bolt longblock. I currently have a 1g lower rad hose and a 2g upper rad hose to go to my 2g rad. No one sells silicone rad hoses in a set for my setup. I would have to buy a set of 1g hoses and a set of 2g hoses and pull a hose from each set.
Or I could buy a 1g rad and and use a 1g upper and 1g lower hose.
I do not have the means to weld aluminum nor do I feel like finding a place to weld it.
I get what everyone is saying, thats its easy to mod the rad yourself.
But its way easier for a company like mishimoto to do it for me. They make 1g and 2g rads, how hard is it for them to mount the pins in the 2g location on a 1g rad? They are already welding pins on, not hard for them to move them a 1/2" wider and weld them on.
Its 10x easier for them to do it while they are making it, rather than me having to modify it myself.
I dont see what the big deal is about this request, everyones getting so defensive over it.
Its a very simple request for people like me who dont have access to someone who welds aluminum. I have done tons of custom work on my car, but If I can get a vendor to produce what I need and save me time and money, why wouldnt I try? And its costs the vendor no extra time or money to do, just simply weld the pin in a different location...
Ohh, you are swapped then, okay. I get why you could use a hose set then. I even understand why you wish mishi made the piece. The problem with them making it is all their profit is mainly made at the margin, which they get to by large production runs of each radiator so it is cheaper per unit. I don't think they could justify making the radiators to satisfy such a small sect of the market. If they stop selling a certain number of units for a certain radiator, im sure they discontinue it because it ceases to become profitable. But if one becomes available, I would buy it! The less chopping the better, I had to cut off all the front and top/bottom mounting points on the radiator I have now to make it fit in my car.
 
Ohh, you are swapped then, okay. I get why you could use a hose set then. I even understand why you wish mishi made the piece. The problem with them making it is all their profit is mainly made at the margin, which they get to by large production runs of each radiator so it is cheaper per unit. I don't think they could justify making the radiators to satisfy such a small sect of the market. If they stop selling a certain number of units for a certain radiator, im sure they discontinue it because it ceases to become profitable. But if one becomes available, I would buy it! The less chopping the better, I had to cut off all the front and top/bottom mounting points on the radiator I have now to make it fit in my car.

See I dont think its a small section of the market, I think the 6 bolt swap is very common among the 2g crowd.
I guess it depends on how large the company is, if the mounting pins are welded on by machine or by hand. Either way I cant see it being that big of a difference. If they are hand welded, thats simple, just weld them in the 2g spot. If they are machine welded, they already have the specs on where to weld them on the rads. They just have to put those specs into the machine when its producing 1g rads.
Obvioulsy I have no experience in making rads or I would make my own, maybe it is a lot more difficult than I think it is....
 
FENDER FLARES!!! easy bolt on FENDER FLARES!!!
 

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agreed because i want some bad for my 2g but i have only seen 240 flares that people gotta custom fab and when i get some there going to be carbon fiber so i dont want to mess them up and waist the money. im cheap
 
I'd like to see some new hoods, body kits, air suspension, aftermarket or reproduction interior parts and exterior parts i.e aftermarket tail lights, replacement parts, something to help fix the timing belt problems
 
i'll just put it out there and this is wishful thinking as a 2g driver. A fix for the front lower control arm. possibly reversing the ball-joint orientation of the arm so as the suspension is not constantly trying to pull it out. also a fix for the door handles, probably changing material from plastic to something stronger. i guess that's it. :)

oh and the red 1g above, does look bad ass :)
 
i'll just put it out there and this is wishful thinking as a 2g driver. A fix for the front lower control arm. possibly reversing the ball-joint orientation of the arm so as the suspension is not constantly trying to pull it out. also a fix for the door handles, probably changing material from plastic to something stronger. i guess that's it. :)

oh and the red 1g above, does look bad ass :)

They kinda have a "fix" for the door handle problem. It reinforces the plastics arms on the handle with metal. Not sure where I saw it, but its around.
 
i'll just put it out there and this is wishful thinking as a 2g driver. A fix for the front lower control arm. possibly reversing the ball-joint orientation of the arm so as the suspension is not constantly trying to pull it out.
It's too bad they didn't design the shock to attach to the spindle rather than the arm. As it sits though, the best solution is an aftermarket arm with a stronger outter balljoint. Which is definitely doable, but I doubt most people would be willing to pay for it.
 
1G Widebody panels, more front bumpers (non custom) for better intercooler airflow, retrofit projector headlights.
 
1G Widebody panels, more front bumpers (non custom) for better intercooler airflow, retrofit projector headlights.

+1 on all that, minus the wided body. lets just get some rockin fender flares that done need to me modified to fit from some other car.
 
call me crazy...but a proper twin screw setup would make some serious power to redline. Seriously if a honda 1.5L can make 487 WHP on a reworked garbage eaton M62...I am sure a supercharged DSM can make much more on a proper setup twin screw like a Lysholm (same as Whipple) or Autorotor (same as Kenny Bell). Who doesn't want 30 psi by 2500 RPM? Just a thought anyways. I am sure it will never happen.
 
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