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93 Eagle Talon TSi AWD Auto

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This has got to be one of the most expensive builds i have ever seen. Not knocking you one bit, you put in more labor than money, im sure of that. Meticulous attention to detail. Every mm of that car is upgraded or improved in some way. Very very impressive.
This is a 9sec car for sure
 
Slooooooooooooow


If you're referring to the pace of which I'm building this POS you are correct sir.

Got a little bit done this weekend.

Tackled the chassis wiring harness.......

Here is what it looked like before

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wires removed

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end result, I may end up removing more before I finalize it and reloom and heat shrink it.

E37BA161-A65D-4281-88F1-D20DD4D7EA09-2026-0000012390A5B166_zpse4007186.jpg
 
a little bit of progress.

I got my manifold back from Boostin Performance. I sent it off to get coated, I asked for the silver finish but when I received it they had coated it black. Bummed out about the error I called and talked to Devin. He told me that the black has a higher heat resistance over the silver finish and that is what they do most exhaust parts with and that was probably why it got coated that instead of the silver like I had asked for.

I knew this already from years ago when I had sent off a set of 300ZX Twin Turbo manifolds to Jet Hot to get coated and that is the same thing they told me.

So instead of sending the manifold back to get blasted and recoated I'm just going to deal with it. Also Devin told me that if there is anything in the future I wanted to get coated that he would give me a discount on it. I still have to get the side exit downpipe made and I was planning on getting it coated as well so it worked out I guess.

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Also got some more AN fittings in to finish up my catch can setup and finish the coolant feed and return lines for the turbo.

Earls -6 AN pushlock with Vibrant performance silicone hose

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Also got this nifty tool, its a billet anodized vice insert to help assemble AN fittings so they don't get scratched up.

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Last, the oil drain on the Super99 HTZ is a T4 oil drain versus a T3 like on the 3794HTA. So I had to purchase a new oil drain flange and gasket. The issue I ran into is that with the -10 AN flange on the center cartridge there is no room to attach the -10AN hose and fitting with the flange on the turbo like I was able to with the T3 flange on the 3794.

After looking it over and speaking to Chris Ginev I figured I'll try attaching the flange to the hose end fitting and attach it to the center cartridge like that. Hopefully it will clear the compressor housing. I've spent money on AN hose, fittings, flanges, gaskets, and bolts for this setup. I'd hate to have to scrap this and change the setup and buy more stuff to make it work.

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A few updates to this neverending build LOL

Finally got some lume in to finish the chassis and engine harness.

Its a Painless EFI kit

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Going to try and get some work on it tonight and hopefully make some progress.

I'd like to get this thing done and over to my buddies shop so they can finish the Fab work that is left and get this thing tuned. Then I guess I'll be waiting until the weather warns up a little to take it to the track.
 
I'm with craig4g63, I also installed the Jay racing relocation kit on my car and didn't have to modify much to make it work. I followed the factory instructions and just ground down the mount that bolts to the block so the belt doesn't rub.

J_HEATH your car is looking awesome. I think I may have even bought a part or 2 from you in the past. I'm just seeing your build thread today for the first time :-o and we both started doing the exact same things to our cars. I picked up my 93 Talon TSi Automatic almost 3 years ago. I tore the whole thing down and basically restored it to my liking. One of these days I should sit down and post my build process up. If your interested and your on FaceBook look me up. I have an album with all the pictures of my build. Matthew Anthony Braja
 
I'm confused about the water pump pulley. I installed the Jay racing kit and did not need to replace my pulley or bash the frame rail?

Maybe I'm just one of the few unlucky ones then. I bought the kit when it first came out I believe, The bracket that bolts to the lower part of the block is just billet, it isn't anodized. When I installed the kit I could not place the belt on the outer pulley of the crank pulley. In this location the alternator was bumping into the frame rail and I couldn't get it to even bolt on like this. I called and spoke with Jay about this, he told me that some people have to knock in the frame rail in order for it to fit. I didn't want to do this, and I didn't want to have to modify the kit, because I think when you buy a part it is supposed to work correctly without any modification. I guess I'm just picky.

Also Craig, Are you running PS? Because I am not and will be running 1 belt versus 2, and with that configuration you have to modify it.

Well I pulled the timing belt and assembly apart and cut off a piece of the motor mount bracket that the belt was touching and then got it all back together last night. Unfortunately I didn't take enough off so i'm going to have to take it all back apart and do it again.

Remember folks, Measure twice cut once! :ohdamn:

Also, I'm going to have to take off my oil drain line and cut some length out of it as well. With the new larger Super99 Turbo it hangs down lower than the 3794.

If it ain't one thing its another. :(

Good news is that I'm getting really close to being to the point of being done with all that I can or want to do and the car will be going to my buddies shop in a month or so to finally get finished.

Also got a few new tools and some other parts

Euroexportinc cam tool, I already had the Jay Racing timing belt tool kit, but didn't like the nylon cam gear tool. This one is billet and has a hole on it where you can see that the timing marks are lined up correctly.

B2DD4C36-9840-4A1D-A887-0425BC40F17E_zpsz3j7jumr.jpg


I also got their valve spring compressor tool.

I also got a spare block to build. The plan is to send it to Boostin Performance and have them do a half fill high compression long rod motor.

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Driveshaft bolted up with all new hardware

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Also, checkout the front, the yoke is sticking out a lot, is that normal with the dust cover off the transfer case?

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What are these parts you speak of?

It's normal to stick out pretty far unfortunately. It'll twist the yoke in no time LOL, dss junk.

Aaron, has anyone spoke with DSS about this? Have them make the DS a little longer to take up the gap.

Because yeah, I agree with that much of the DS yoke sticking out no wonder it ends up getting twisted.

Like having your pecker half way in and having a girl go all full rodeo riding you. It's not going to end good.
 
What are these parts you speak of?



Aaron, has anyone spoke with DSS about this? Have them make the DS a little longer to take up the gap.

Because yeah, I agree with that much of the DS yoke sticking out no wonder it ends up getting twisted.

Like having your pecker half way in and having a girl go all full rodeo riding you. It's not going to end good.
Having lower ball joint sleeves machined, also a thicker rear driveshaft adapter to get rid of the gap. We spoke to them a while ago, didn't really get far.
 
No hate...but you were using TunerPro and an SAFC? At the same time? :p


Yea it was old as program from the late 90's early 00's that is nowhere near to tuning with link. So basically it had a base program on the eprom and then the AFC was used to make any adjustments if needed. That lasted a month or two until i switched to Link V3 with SD option.

We used that years ago and tuned off knock before the whole wideband craze came to be around the mid 2000's. Before that everyone just went off knock and EGT's. I've been building turbo imports since the late 90's.
 
Setup change 1,001 LOL

Sold the whole AN radiator setup and will be switching to a half size radiator and electric water pump.

Order a half size radiator, FAL shrouded fan, meziere universal electric water pump, thermostat housing adapter plate, water pump blockoff plate, and CAS cover from Frontline Fabrication.

Only thing needed is lines and fittings, once i get everything i'll mock it up where i need it and figure out what all fittings and hose i need.

Other than that not much going on, been busy with work and the holidays.
 
Yea it was old as program from the late 90's early 00's that is nowhere near to tuning with link. So basically it had a base program on the eprom and then the AFC was used to make any adjustments if needed. That lasted a month or two until i switched to Link V3 with SD option.


This doesn't really make sense, but I'm not going to clutter your thread. Suffice to say, you were most likely using the wrong .bin and .xdf. TunerPro had speed density when DSMLink was still using sliders only...ROFL. Build looks great though, keep up the good work.
 
just spent the last 3 hours reading over your build and im very impressed! :thumb:
 
just spent the last 3 hours reading over your build and im very impressed! :thumb:

Thanks! It's been a LONG drawn out build, but I've just been taking my time so I can build it exactly the way I envision it.


Oil pressure gauge and electric water pump came in today. Now waiting on the parts from Frontline Fab, STM, and Radiator to come in so I can start mocking up this new setup.

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Favorite build on here! Did you ever get the DS safety loop?
 
Favorite build on here! Did you ever get the DS safety loop?

No I didn't ever get the Frontline Fab safety loop, Andrew ended up refunding me my money.

The new plan is to run this...

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