jmskiller-2G said:

So I have a 2G gs... So a 420A. I've had it for about 1 month and I've alrdy lost faith. It's a really nice looking car both internal and external but it is had SO many problems with the engine. My radiators leaking, had to replace the clutch hydraulic line and slave cylinder and yet the cylinder is STILL leaking. Not to mention my transmission is shit. The 3rd and 5th synchros are done. Yet everyone is telling me it's ready for a turbo. Or drop a 4g63t /srt4 engine in it. But they say it in a manner like I'drop engines in other cars for a living. So dsm forums. Givin a 99 gs with a 420A engine that's running at low compression, bad radiator, and transmission. What should I do?

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i would focus on replacing the radiator and doing majority of the much needed maintenance items. as for the clutch leaking check for a leak at the clutch master cylinder push rod in the passenger compartment under the dash. the clutch master cylinder usually leaks from there. as for your low compression i would suggest a leak down test to find the source of the problem before tearing the engine apart looking for the cause. a leak down test can tell you if your piston rings, valves, and or head gasket is leaking. as for a transmission i would suggest a new trans.

i run a 420a in my 98 eagle talon esi and same trans you do. its still holding up strong with the original engine at 220k miles; and ive pushed it to its limit multiple times but i keep up with the maintenance's schedule and change the oil frequently to prevent failures. the 420a isn't as strong as the 4g63t and the srt4 engine; but it still produces good power with the right set ups. the fastest 420a i know of with legitament proof is qround 135mph and a 10.5ish second time ( have to double check though not positive on the time) thought the swaps are good ideas but sometimes its not cost affective depending on the tuners situation and decisions. been through 3 transmissions but they aren't the best built transmissions on the planet. but overal, its mainly a good idea to start with all the maintenance items first before trying to do upgrades.

overall, id honestly do what you feel like with the car and not let others push you around on their opinions or telling you to do a swap. dont get me wrong, everyone's inputs are good just take them as considerations.

If your not wiling to put the work in to fix it, your better off selling it! Oh yea FYI dropping a 4g63 motor in is not that easy. Don't let them tell u it's easy or strait forward! Also welcome to the world or DSM's your ALWAYS going to be working on it . You have to decide for yourself if it's worth it to u to fix or part out and start with a better DSM .

Awdspyderman said:

If your not wiling to put the work in to fix it, your better off selling it! Oh yea FYI dropping a 4g63 motor in is not that easy. Don't let them tell u it's easy or strait forward! Also welcome to the world or DSM's your ALWAYS going to be working on it . You have to decide for yourself if it's worth it to u to fix or part out and start with a better DSM .

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i agree with you on a 4g63t swap not being easy and straight forward. it does take more parts time and money to do than fixing what you already have.

as for always working on it, yeah the car will need fixing now and then but id say its worth it to learn how to fix it and make it better. i honestly haven't had many problems with my dsm. mines been really reliable. a lot more reliable than any other car i have driven.

It's low compression purposefully, for the "turbo" it's rdy to have. I checked the master cylinder up down and around and it's not leaking. It's leaking from the slave near where the line connects. As for the transmission, what's the best transmission that can support a turbo without falling apart? Someone told me a "srt transmission with full drive"? And for the radiator, any suggestions. I searched mishimoto but they don't have a full aluminum radiator for my engine.

You maybe able to use a radiator from a turbo car the hose maybe in a different spot but it's something to check into if your looking for an all aluminum rad. As far as swapping I'm with everyone else it takes too much for what it is worth. Both require cutting and welding the frame rails and fabing motor mounts. As for your tranny problem either pick up a used one and swap it in (tons of people are always parting 420a out) or have yours rebuilt.

jmskiller-2G said:

It's low compression purposefully, for the "turbo" it's rdy to have. I checked the master cylinder up down and around and it's not leaking. It's leaking from the slave near where the line connects. As for the transmission, what's the best transmission that can support a turbo without falling apart? Someone told me a "srt transmission with full drive"? And for the radiator, any suggestions. I searched mishimoto but they don't have a full aluminum radiator for my engine.

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sorry i misunderstood when you said low compression. turboing the engine isn't a bad idea just know you will need some way to control fuel so you dont run the engine lean. and the line for the clutch could be lose or worn out. maybe try a new clutch line. you can use an srt4 manual trans just know you have a lot of modifications to do for it to work. for the transmission from an srt4 to work you have to make new mounts for the roll stoppers and transmission mount. you have to cut into the subframe and frame rail and rebox it and also have to level it so the driveline doesn't bind up and a few other things. there is a built t350 trans (our transmission) on xtremefabrications.com but i don't know much about it and if anyone has used it or not. so i dont know of its quality and power holding capability when you turbocharge the engine. as for the radiator you can substitute a 4g63 radiator, just note that you will have to re do your pluming for your coolant hoses.

sorry had to re-read the original post. you did say you replaced the clutch line already. i correct myself and say have you tried tightening the line up??

Yes, the lines are tight. I had to cut and re-flare one end cas the new line was too long and had the wrong (screws?) so when I cut the new line, I took the screws from the original, swapped the new ones and re-flared. Also replaced the slave cylinder as well. For the radiator, would I need to get custom piping for the plumbing? If so where can I get that done? And for the transmission, it seems I just have to part out for a stock 420a tranny :/

jmskiller-2G said:

Yes, the lines are tight. I had to cut and re-flare one end cas the new line was too long and had the wrong (screws?) so when I cut the new line, I took the screws from the original, swapped the new ones and re-flared. Also replaced the slave cylinder as well. For the radiator, would I need to get custom piping for the plumbing? If so where can I get that done? And for the transmission, it seems I just have to part out for a stock 420a tranny :/

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ok. i have done flaring too. the reason i ask is that sometimes new flaired lines don't seat well unless they are really tight without stripping the bolt/screw.

you can make the custom pluming for the radiator. i would look for metal pipe thats the same diameter at your inlet/outlets and use silicone couplers and some good clamps. you can search the internet for these parts. i had links for them but i cant find them at this time. or have a local radiator/auto shop fab it up for you. i know some welding places will weld up some pips for you.

i think its a good idea to stick with the stock tranny for now so you have a car to drive at least until you can put a good transmission in it, but thats up to you.

BlackKnight2013 said:

ok. i have done flaring too. the reason i ask is that sometimes new flaired lines don't seat well unless they are really tight without stripping the bolt/screw.

you can make the custom pluming for the radiator. i would look for metal pipe thats the same diameter at your inlet/outlets and use silicone couplers and some good clamps. you can search the internet for these parts. i had links for them but i cant find them at this time. or have a local radiator/auto shop fab it up for you. i know some welding places will weld up some pips for you.

i think its a good idea to stick with the stock tranny for now so you have a car to drive at least until you can put a good transmission in it, but thats up to you.

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Yeah the lower clutch line is acting up again :/ so I ordered a complete clutch line from EXTREME PSI. Com. So I don't have to worry about leaks in different segments of the clutch line cause its just one straight line from the slave to the master.

As for the transmission, my 3rd gear is pretty much shot. So what transmissions can I bolt on that are the same? I saw the A578, NV-T350, TH350, and F5MC1(mine) what's the difference? And is there a website that I can order from that makes different stages?