I have a spare head im rebuilding. Way back in 2006 i bought some SBR Black Nitride Series valves I belive. I only ran them for about 100 miles before the bottom end gave out. I almost tossed them out because theres no number stamped like oem.

I also have some oem evo 9 valves with about 30k miles on them along with the springs. I was leaning towards the evo setup, but that was before i found out the other set was SS valves, I hope.

Question is what would be better. The head is going on a 2.0 built short block running a big 16g.

talonesi95t said:

I have a spare head im rebuilding. Way back in 2006 i bought some SBR Black Nitride Series valves I belive. I only ran them for about 100 miles before the bottom end gave out. I almost tossed them out because theres no number stamped like oem.

I also have some oem evo 9 valves with about 30k miles on them along with the springs. I was leaning towards the evo setup, but that was before i found out the other set was SS valves, I hope.

Question is what would be better. The head is going on a 2.0 built short block running a big 16g.

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SBR never made any valves just resold SI Valves. What are your goals ?? drag car / roadrace / street car ??? Are the Black Valves stock size or over sized ??? OEM EVO springs ??? 2GEN head or 1GEN head ???

Evo exhaust valves are sodium filled if I recall correctly. You can't hardly cut those bastards with a blow torch! So they get my vote. As for the intake valves, if your skeptical of the SBR valves then don't use them. The Evo's are an OEM component, if you find out the other valves are a quality part, then toss a coin *shrug*.

See if a magnet srticks to the valve or not.

Check the head and stem.

If the magnet sticks, then not stainless.

SI is a good valve, if what Nitrouskris is correct, then it is a coin toss.

You can't compare an OEM valve to any aftermarket valve made for performance. They're made completely different and are designed to enhance the flow characteristics of the head. If aftermarket valves are in your budget (along witha valve job to fit them properly) then it's a no brainer. Unless you're racing in a class which requires you to use an OEM valve.

Its a 2g head. The head was rebuilt with the SBR/si valves back in 2006. Got to drive the car roughly 100 miles before it broke down. I replaced the whole engine with a good used one and put this head in storage since 2006.

The shortblock i have now has forged internals. I only have a big 16g to go with it. This block will see 99% daily use and as we all do, a few spirited runs. No drag or auto X.

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Magnet did not stick, so they are SS.

Valves are stock size.

Evo Valves are great but they have 1 drawback. The the car ever jumps time they will break right where the stem meets the head of the valve.

white92talontsi said:

Evo Valves are great but they have 1 drawback. The the car ever jumps time they will break right where the stem meets the head of the valve.

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Break instead of bend? I'd think either or would happen anytime you jump teeth.

Yeah, but I'd think a broken valve would be more dangerous to the life of a piston???

In the pic with the valve and magnet,NOT a SI valve. That is some sort of crappy valve. Junk them. See how big the tulip is from the valve to valve head?

Those kill flow, they clog the air path.

SI Valves are a decent made fully machined valve.

What you have is some cast valve.

Evo valves it is then.

Here is what color the BNV should be... "NOT A 4G63 Valve - Its for a Honda "



And check the spring rate on the EVO springs to make sure they are within spec. I believe SVO has a tech post on it

Kis, this is the link where I checked the EVO VIII springs.
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/cyl...2-evo-viii-stock-dsm-manley-brian-crower.html

Save the EVO VIII retainers, and order a set of beehive springs, IIRC MAP has a set of springs only.

The stock style valves, along with most oe replacement valves are a 2 piece design, where the head of the valve is fusion welded to the stem. so the where the weld is, there is a brittle point on either side of the weld.

So when a timing belt fails, and the valves meet pistons the OE valve is more likely to snap the head off, more so with increased lift aftermarket cams.

Where a stainless steel valve that is of a 1 piece design will bend.

Now a stainless valve can snap the head off too.

This was a head that had SuperTech Valves installed.
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/cylinder-head-short-block/439824-4g63-dropped-valve-head-repair.html

Ha, what a shocker. SBR parts being junk.

They could have been SBR. But it was back in 2006 I got them. Back then I got most of my parts from them. I remember saving the receipt, I will have to see if I can find it to confirm it was there valves.

Are evo valves drop in?

RipperXX said:

Evo exhaust valves are sodium filled if I recall correctly. .

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Really? Because i have a set and i haven't assembled the head of my car.

I just got back my spare head back from getting the evo valves seated.

Those do not look like the hollow stem evo valves, but stock 6T DSM valves. They may have come from an early evo, but doubtfull a VIII or IX

I have had really good results using the EPN SS valves sold on eBay. They seem like a quality piece.

These are them, evo 9 valves, sorry i borrowed the pic. Those are the ones i bought.

evos sodium filled valves are marked '6N' while the intake or all DSM ones are marked '6T' as far as I can remember...

urbansmoker1 said:

Break instead of bend? I'd think either or would happen anytime you jump teeth.

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Of course either is a bad thing but DSM valves will bend but late Model Sodium Filled Exhaust valves will not bend, they will snap right off.

serviceguy said:

evos sodium filled valves are marked '6N' while the intake or all DSM ones are marked '6T' as far as I can remember...

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Yes these intake are marked 6T and the exhuast are 6N