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Hydraulic Timing Tensioner Gap! 7 bolt

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Snow White

Proven Member
59
0
Dec 3, 2012
williamstown, Kentucky
98 Gst with 7 bolt. This is my first timing belt job that I have done and I replaced the hydraulic tensioner and bolted every thing to spec and all of my timing marks lineup but the gap is closed and it's been over 15 minutes ? Im using the threaded tool to compress the tensioner what should I due ?
 
Rotate the timing belt by hand and check the the gap. If no change redo and set the idler tension to the factory specs. Of the top of my head the the torque should be 2.5 -3.0 lbs.
 
Well that is pretty close but you would want to be between .150-.177in, a 3/16 drill bit would be .1875in.
 
The easiest way to do it is to adjust the tensioner so the "grenade pin" slides in and out freely. I put tension on the pulley until I can move it in and out then torque the bolt to 36ft/lbs rotate it till the marks all line up again let it sit 20 minutes and if the pin still moves freely you are good to go.
 
You aren't trying to measure with the threaded rod still in are you? That doesn't work. In the above post he wasn't saying tighten the bolt to 3 lbs, Tighten the tensioner eccentric to 3 lbs. You're actually supposed to use an inch pound torque wrench by the book (you can look up the specs) but most of us do not use that method. After the tools are removed the motor has been rotated then the tensioner must measure between the specs. It's as simple as that as far as tension goes.
 
The easiest way to do it is to adjust the tensioner so the "grenade pin" slides in and out freely. I put tension on the pulley until I can move it in and out then torque the bolt to 36ft/lbs rotate it till the marks all line up again let it sit 20 minutes and if the pin still moves freely you are good to go.

That is the way I do it and never had a problem.
 
Okay so compress the tensioner back down slowly so that the grenade pin moves freely. Then put the tension back on the belt with the tensioner pulley then remove the threaded tool. Rotate the engine with all marks lining up then wait 20 minutes and I should be able to stick the grenade pin back in the hole?
Il update how it works out tomorrow thanks guys.
 
When you say set to 2.5 to 3.0 lbs are you saying to tighten the tensioner pulley to that ? Because I have mine at 36 lbs im sorry just stumped at this point.

Im kind of in a hurry so im not reading everyones post so im sorry if someone had clarified this for you already but

2.5 to 3 lbs is the tension given to the pulley, and basically you have to hold it in that position while to tightened down the pulley mounting bolt. to give the pulley the correct tension position and when you get the correct gap it means the torque/position was correct.

if the gap is too big then that means it was "under torqued" (under 2.5) and if there is no gap on the tensioner then the pulley has been over torqued (past/over 3lbs)

does this help?
 
You do not even have to use the Threaded Rod tool if it's not right. Just go back to TDC, wait and see where it falls at whether too tight or loose. You can use the eccentric pulley tool to hold the pulley while you loosen the bolt and either add or remove tension til the grenade pin move's in and out freely and tighten the bolt back up. Wait and check with the grenade pin again.

When I get done with one I can put the pin back in and flick it with my finger and it will spin freely.
 
Yes this defiantly helped thanks!
Im gonna work on it in the morning.

Okay I think it's good all my marks line up and after it sets for 20 min I can put the grenade pin back in and spin it freely.

Due I still have to due the drill bit test ?
 
Chances are you will be fine but I would probably do the drill bit test for peace of mind.
 
Yes this defiantly helped thanks!
Im gonna work on it in the morning.

Okay I think it's good all my marks line up and after it sets for 20 min I can put the grenade pin back in and spin it freely.

Due I still have to due the drill bit test ?

If the pin spins freely it is dead center between the spec. so no you do not need to check with a drill bit. Its had to even see anything with the motor in the car to use the drill bit method.
 
Rotate everything x amount of times until everything lines up perfectly again. I forgot how many times exactly maybe someone can chime in on it. Thats how I can tell its fine.
 
people, before you throw any more advise, this thread ended 9 months ago. he's got it now...
 
I'm trying to set the tension on my evo 2 block with new auto tensioner. The issues is that when the grenade pin spins freely the gap is closer to 1/8 inch when holding the drill bit parallel to the top of the auto tensioner. That is how you are supposed to measure it right? And if so how come my gap is so much smaller? The tensioner arm looks the same as the 7 bolt and I'm using the 7 bolt tensioner. Thanks!
Chances are you will be fine but I would probably do the drill bit test for peace of mind.
 
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