The Top DSM Community on the Web

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. Log in to remove most ads.

Please Support Kiggly Racing
Please Support ExtremePSI

Complete Cut Out in Boost

This site may earn a commission from merchant
affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

DSM 2G Brendon

Probationary Member
24
0
Nov 11, 2013
Logan, Ohio
I just traded off my 93 Honda Civic hatch to jump over into the DSM world! My first car was a 2g Eclipse GSX, but at the time i didn't know what i had...but anyways unfortunately this has to be my first post.. But anyways i'll explain my issue the best that i can. The car idles fine and when i'm not building boost it drives fine if i stay out of boost i can run it up all the way through the gears with no issue. My issue is when I get into boost the car completely cuts out.. feels like i'm going to go through the windshield.. this doesn't really happen in first gear often , most of the time i can run it all the way up through first gear no issue, but once i hit second gear and i keep into boost which right now my gauge reads 10 pounds when i'm mashing it down but it creeps up to 12 pounds at high rpm. The cut out usually occurs at around 5-6k rpm. i notice it happens more once i past the 10 pounds threshold. I've read up alot and I think i am experiencing fuel cut. I don't know where to check first or what exactly this could be so any advice would be greatly appreciated. I am excited to make the jump back to the better side!

Thanks!
 
Last edited:
if it's a wideband o2 sensor it'll come with its own o2 sensor that needs the bung welded to be installed, If it's narrowband it taps into stock o2.

grab a picture of the gauge and I can tell you which it is, if your unsure
 
If you don't have an air compressor I would get one. A little 3 gallon is perfect for doing blt. There is normally a regulator on your compressor. If not you can buy one and plumb it in. Car off. Take off your intake and hook it up to your turbo there. I'll take a pic of my blt when I get off this afternoon if you want. All it is is a reducer with a quick connect. Tears in couplers, loose couplers, throttle body seals, vacuum lines and brake booster line.
 
sounds to me like he didn't gap them at all and just tossed 'em in outta the box. either way though, perform a boost leak test, just to make sure -- wouldn't hurt.
 
i made a boost leak tester today out of a valve stem adapter and pvc pipe and epoxy .. i hope it works, i will test it tomorrow, tonight i tightened up all the brackets on the intercooler piping that i could, i can tell a difference yet its still cuttings at like 4500, ill upload a video right now, disregard the stupid crap coming out of my mouth, my girlfriend wasn't the best camera girl. but i think you can kind of hear when it cuts out.

Here is just a quick video of what its doing..

[ame="http://youtu.be/qx7xLP0BNEE"]http://youtu.be/qx7xLP0BNEE[/ame]
 
Last edited:
What kind of bov do you have bro? Sounds like its blowing open or maybe your wastgate isn't holding and blowing open, its one of the 2 if you ask me! What happens when you floor it in first gear? What rpm does each gear cut out at? It seems like first or second (not sure which one your on) gear went to like 5500rpm then you shift and 2nd or 3rd went to 4500ish rpm and you shifted and 3rd or 4th went to 4300ish rpm and you let off or shift? Again what happens when flooring it can you give us a 3rd gear pull floored? That will tell me way more bro, it doesn't seem like fuel cut atleast from that video. Fuel cut feels like your hitting a brick wall and like the whole motor just slams off, it's not a pleasant feeling LOL!
 
Stupid eBay type rs bov. I replaced it with another one today.. It really didn't help much at all... When I floor it in 1st gear it wraps the gear out it runs great in first doesn't cut out at all. Second gear I can run it up to around 4500-5000 rpm more sometimes if I'm lucky .. If I hold the pedal down when it cuts out and I don't let off of it , it kicks back in and I can run it up to 6800 . Sometimes it makes it to 6800 and sometimes it cuts out one more time. Third gear around 4500 it cuts out again. I notice it only cuts out when I'm around 4500+ I noticed I hit 12psi around 4500 before that it stays at a steady 10psi. Fourth gear same thing 4500 rpm cut out when it hits 12psi. And fith I havent hit 4500rpm yet in fifth ... But before 45000 rpm in fifth gear it holds steady at 10psi .. I don't know if it's normal to not hit 12psi till 4500 or not.. I can take a video of anything you need . Just let me know. I wanna figure this out . Thanks for the help
 
Well it looks like you have a wideband on there as well, what's it reading leading up to the cut out? It should show you the air fuel ratio right before cutting out as well as through the cut out. Is it reading leaner or richer right before the cut out?
 
It's a narrowband prev owner said he unhooked it ... I'm about to hook it back up... Gotta trace the wires he ran...and yeah I'm guessing I do I will hook it up to the tester tomorrow and see what I can find ... I'll report back with my findings . We shall get this figured out its a shame I haven't got too see how this car can run for real yet . I'm excited .
 
The narrowband gauge is pretty useless for the most part, so I wouldn't worry to much about that. I would check the adjustment of your bov and make sure the wastgate is working properly! So wait you got the car in this condition? So basically the guy you got it from screwed it up and dumped it on you?
 
Yes I got it like this he said when he had it that he didn't notice these issues because he never got into boost too much.. But I call bs. Anyways set my bov? To hard or soft? And yeah I'll have to check it out how do I make sure my wastegate actuator is working properly ?
 
its got head & block work, MAFT, FMIC and the P/O said he didn't get into boost much? that's like saying you've got a 70" LED HDTV and never viewed HD content.
 
I know it sucks not knowing for sure what is in the bottom end for sure without taking out the engine. I don't understand how he could have not got into boost with it, i definitely think he knew about all these issues that's why i was able to trade off my hatch for it. But i'm slowly fixing his mistakes. Seems like one problem after another i'm trying to fix. Thermostat went bad, blew a radiator hose, broke off the exhaust manifold bolts today, went and had the down pipe fixed, he had only one bolt in it and no gasket... the car needs something to tune it with, and upgraded fuel system. i'm not a fan of the godspeed turbo's... he used radiator hose cut up for couplings... had to replace the bov, seal was blown out in it... the oil pressure gauge is broke or the oil pressure switch/sensor is bad not sure.. gauge is reading over 100psi oil pressure. no boost controller. i mean it has a plethora of issues, one thing at a time and hundreds and thousands of dollars later.. i am so mad i went to get on it today because this boosted civic hatchback flew by me and it just keeps cutting out... i;m so frustrated with it... not a good start to switching over to dsm.
 
I would check all of the CAC piping as everyone else was saying. Disassemble everything and inspect throughly. It could also be your Fuel Pressure regulator if it fails open, the pressure will not back up like its suppose to and you will not get proper fueling. Just a thought. Also I would invest in a wide band. Spend $ now to save yourself a lot down the road.
 
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community
Boosted Fabrication ECM Tuning ExtremePSI Fuel Injector Clinic Innovation Products Jacks Transmissions JNZ Tuning Kiggly Racing Morrison Fabrications MyMitsubishiStore.com RixRacing RockAuto RTM Racing STM Tuned

Latest posts

Build Thread Updates

Vendor Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top