The Top DSM Community on the Web

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. Log in to remove most ads.

Please Support Kiggly Racing
Please Support Rix Racing

97 GSX 600hp Street/Drag/Restoration

This site may earn a commission from merchant
affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Diggin the whole build man. Love it! Cant wait to finish mine up this winter!
 
Thanks Guys, I still have a lot more to come with it this close to being running.

Here's a quick update I got the front end pretty much all buttoned up. I still gotta fabricate something to make the bumper for straight and not bow down like it is. But that is minor and can be fixed on a day when I'm bored. But other than that I just have the wheel well covers in on all four corners to install. One brake line that I had to get the correct flares put on. I have that done just need to install it. And put in the different proportioning valve in because the one in their is leaky.

But anyway here is some pictures of the bumper as it sits right now.
IMG_2004_zpsb211d4b8.jpg

IMG_2001_zps97ef3058.jpg

IMG_2010_zpsb292702a.jpg
 
Nice build I see your a few miles down the street.

Thanks, and are your still in Kalamazoo, if so were a bit more than a few miles LOL. I think its a two hour drive or more if I'm not mistaken.

This is a clean car man looks awesome. Would love to see some numbers whenever the build is complete

Thanks, I appreciate the kind words, and numbers should hopefully be coming soon. I'm going to work on it tomorrow and double check all the drive-train for security. After that I'm going to work on the tune and get it more dialed in and drive-able.
 
phenomenal journal Id like to restore my car as well, when you got into cleaning up the subframe components did you grind off the rust?or how did you remove your rust on your underbody ?
 
phenomenal journal Id like to restore my car as well, when you got into cleaning up the subframe components did you grind off the rust?or how did you remove your rust on your underbody ?

Thanks buddy, and grinding is exactly how I got all the rust off of everything. After everything was ground down I went and bought a few wire brush's. And then brushed all the debris left over from grinding. Then I prepped the surface as good as possible and por-15 the underneath of the car. Then laid a coat of gloss black paint over that. And once that tacked up real nice I hit the whole under-body with a coat of clear. That way when I go to clean the under-body up it all slides off real nice and stays rust free for a couple years. I'm more than likely going to drive it in the winter. And with the salt we got here in Michigan winters, it's only gonna be rust free for a few LOL.
 
What was the benefit of porting the oil filter housing? Have you considered the AMS balance shaft kit ( http://www.maperformance.com/ams-4g...=google_base&gclid=CO2465Tm27oCFTGCQgod3XgAig )? I had the stubby eliminator and it didn't allow my oil pump gear to stay aligned and it locked up the oil pump. I was thankful if didn't ruin my engine. I noticed there appeared to be no room for cooling fans, how will you mount them? I know its a little late now but i highly recommend installing two -10 fittings in place of the valve cover vent and PVC locations with vacuum lines sucking from a oil catch can from the turbo compressor inlet to allow the proper ring flex and no crank case pressure under boost. IMO

Good article to read!
http://www.jackstransmissions.com/pages/keep-your-balance-shafts
 
What was the benefit of porting the oil filter housing? Have you considered the AMS balance shaft kit ( AMS 4G63 Race Balance Shaft Eliminator Kit - Modern Automotive Performance )? I had the stubby eliminator and it didn't allow my oil pump gear to stay aligned and it locked up the oil pump. I was thankful if didn't ruin my engine. I noticed there appeared to be no room for cooling fans, how will you mount them? I know its a little late now but i highly recommend installing two -10 fittings in place of the valve cover vent and PVC locations with vacuum lines sucking from a oil catch can from the turbo compressor inlet to allow the proper ring flex and no crank case pressure under boost. IMO

Good article to read!
Keep Your Balance Shafts – Jacks Transmissions LLC


When deleting the balance shafts you are taking strain away from the oil pump. With this you are raising the oil pressure. To compensate for the higher flow you port your filter housing to drop idle pressure and wot pressure. Your gear might have fracked up because you had failed to port your oil filter housing :hmm:. I feel very comfortable with the standard BSE kit, its been done hundreds of times and has been proven. I've read mixed opinions on the ams kit. When I was buying parts for the motor I did a lot of google searching on that same subject. If I dug far enough into google I'd find the thread on it. But I'm not to worried about it, its all in place and gonna get tuned soon.

And good eye, because that turbo is 40+lbs and is massive because of the VGT veins. Because its so big I actually had put two coolant fans that are 1250cfm a piece that are being used as pushers. I snapped a picture for you.
001_zps79d5bd8a.jpg


And for the valve cover, these -6 are just in place until I get a new cover. And I've seen hundreds and hundreds of built cars with stock pvc/valve cover fittings. And they didn't even have a catch can on their cars. The rings will be find, I've never heard of that problem with dsm's honestly. So I'm not worried about it, everything is set in place as of now. Give it another year or so I'm planning on fabbing a coolant/catch can built in one. And I'm planning on purchasing the front-line fabrications valve cover, diff cover, transfer-case brace. But that's down the road some time or another when cash comes in. That will be over kill but that's what I'm wanting LOL. I just wanted the car to get done for now. And with the whole build in the past 10 months I got to much into the car. Especially because I rebuilt every single thing on the drivetrain, the motor build, machining, painting materials and the list go's on and on. But it's a car I love and will more than likely own this for life. Eventually it will just be a track only car and I'm gonna rebuild the block go stroker and go for 8's, but that years from now.



And now to a little update, I've had quite a few people pm on here and dsmtalk about my fuse box. I didn't extend my harness, I just moved it to a new location. It is in my passenger front wheel well. I built a plastic housing attached to the bumper, and a custom wheel well cover for better weather proofing. I had also took apart the fuse box and weather proofed it with rubber lining and water proof shrink tube over the wires. I did that 3 years ago and 20,000 miles later and have yet to have any fuse's blow. If one does I will have to pull the wheel and wheel well cover. But that's a 15-20 minute procedure, and if your blowing fuses constantly you would have another problem LOL. But I snapped some pictures of how it looks mounted, and its mounting location. And a couple other misc pictures :thumb:. I have used all stainless blots, nuts, washers on pretty much every part on the car. I'm still in the process of switching some over. But once those are all switched I will never have to worry about rusted bolts.:hellyeah:

054_zpse97de6e1.jpg

058_zps0707a12d.jpg

And all the marks is just a bunch of dust that has a bunch of fingers ran throught it LOL.
061_zpsbfce67af.jpg

001_zps6944b70e.jpg

005_zps2070e0d3.jpg
 
Do you have a link on how to port the oil filter housing? Are you using the Kiggly HLA?


The Kiggly Racing Hydraulic Lash Adjuster (HLA) Oil Pressure Regulator actively regulates lash adjuster (sometimes referred to as lifters) supply pressure to a constant 15psi. It accomplishes this by restricting flow instead of dumping extra pressure like the JDM regulator. This reduces oil flow into the head, keeping more oil in the pan. In some instances this can greatly improve oil pressure at the end of a 1/4mi pass. Air bleed at the highest point helps oil quality and aeration to lash adjusters.

This unit is comprised of two parts: the regulator body and a distribution plate. This unit is totally plug & play: simply remove your existing regulator and (reusing the same bolts) bolt the Kiggy unit down with the distribution plate between the head and regulator body. A gasket or sealant is not required or recommended.

Application: DSM (90-99), EVO (I-III).
 
You know I've actually never seen that before, and that is a really good idea. I really appreciate that you brought that up. I'm more than likely going to place a order for one of these in the next couple weeks.


And you ar gonna have to google the porting of the housing. Because I don't have a direct link to where it was found. That was found digging on google when I was bored a couple years ago.
 
This is a really awesome build, nice attention to detail. That bumper just needs about two inches trimmed of the inside lip that touches the intercooler core and it won't sag and flex anymore :)
 
Yeah a hour or so sim has a new shop if your in town check it out, sometime and hit me up id love to see your car and talk dsm.
 

Thanks for posting up the link to the other goodies to try. I've never seen that thread before and it's an awesome post. A couple of those I actually didn't even know about and are really good ideas!


This is a really awesome build, nice attention to detail. That bumper just needs about two inches trimmed of the inside lip that touches the intercooler core and it won't sag and flex anymore :)

Thanks man, I see what your saying about trimming the inner bumper a couple inches. I didn't even think of that honestly, when I'm working on it next I'll try that out

Yeah a hour or so sim has a new shop if your in town check it out, sometime and hit me up id love to see your car and talk dsm.

If I'm out that way I'll defiantly stop by, I'm actually thinking if getting it tuned over there.
 
Last edited:
Well its been a while since I've updated this thread. I haven't done much to the car for a little while I've got the car running OK. But its winter and I thankfully own couple other cars, because they salt here like crazy. With that being said, I didn't get the car out for 2013 like I was going for. But I'm defiantly going to have the car out for 2014. And I already have a pretty good list of things that I want to accomplish before the spring time comes.


Install a 8 point roll cage.
This coming semester at school I'm taking the certification class for tig welding. I already have my mig welding certification. So I'm not to worried when it comes to welding in the roll cage.
Re-do some of the interior wiring
Install A kiggly HLA (Thanks Rocketman1000R for the tip:thumb:)
Re-paint Valve cover, and turbo housing.
Finish stripping the clear off the hood
Then I need to re-clear the hood
Get camber kit for the rear tires
Arp wheel studs, and possibly a spacer in the front and rear.
I'm probably going to purchase new carpet for the car.
That's all I can think of right now, I'm sure I'll come back to this post and add a few things here and there.
If any of you guys have some idea's on what I should look into or any input really. Let me know I defiantly don't know everything, but I am willing to learn. And use the knowledge to accomplish more on the car than I could think of alone. :thumb:



And I also have a couple random pictures that I've taken. I still need to wet sand and buff the whole car. And give it a nice final detail and polish. But I'll do that later when spring is getting close and I clear the hood.
IMG_2186_zps6a05a2ae.jpg

IMG_2184_zps34eb3be6.jpg
 
Last edited:
I just skimmed pictures but looks great. What I did to get rid of the gap between the ic and front bumper was drilled small holes through the lowest part of the bumper and ran zip ties through my intercooler and the holes. The top part of the bottom section cover the bottom of the ic and the zip ties.
 
Yes they have a really nice shop now and a great location on westnedge avenue, sim will be doing some work to my dsm as well tuning it. They service all kinds of cars subies, Hondas, and dsms and all sorts of stuff and they have a dyno too.
 
I just skimmed pictures but looks great. What I did to get rid of the gap between the ic and front bumper was drilled small holes through the lowest part of the bumper and ran zip ties through my intercooler and the holes. The top part of the bottom section cover the bottom of the ic and the zip ties.

Thanks and I appreciate the advise given. I've actually took the advise of jesse2012 and it worked perfect. I honestly wouldn't want a bunch of holes in my bumper. And I don't want zip ties to move around and mess up this intercooler. Maybe my old core because it was cheaper, but this things pricey to bend the fins or create small leaks.


Yes they have a really nice shop now and a great location on westnedge avenue, sim will be doing some work to my dsm as well tuning it. They service all kinds of cars subies, Hondas, and dsms and all sorts of stuff and they have a dyno too.


That's really good to know and hear. Once I get all this stuff wrapped up, I'm defiantly going to have them tune the car. I got way to much going on to mess with tuning anymore. It was fun on a 16g when you can knock a little bit and not really worry about to much. But with this amount of boost a little hiccup will ruin this whole motor. And I really don't feel like rebuilding it for a while. Plus when it was a small turbo I could actually look down and see the gauges. With this amount of power its all data logging and tune. But anyway when I go ahead and take the car to them I'll defiantly let you know.
 
Sounds god let me know they'll have some fun stuff going on when its warmer and excellent location some realy cool stuff going on down there.
 
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community
Boosted Fabrication ECM Tuning ExtremePSI Fuel Injector Clinic Innovation Products Jacks Transmissions JNZ Tuning Kiggly Racing Morrison Fabrications MyMitsubishiStore.com RixRacing RockAuto RTM Racing STM Tuned

Latest posts

Build Thread Updates

Vendor Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top