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Problems....Endless Problems

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Orangeeclipsers

Proven Member
33
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Oct 29, 2013
Florida
Hello I am new to this forum and I have been a long time viewer. I own a Pearl orange bad ass 2g dsm and I have had it for 9 years. It has been sitting for a while But I never gave up and finally got it fixed....so I thought. Long story short I have been over 4,000 grand on this car since I first put the new motor in that was about 2009. Since 2009 I have bought new parts, towed to every shop in my area paying top dollar for labor, towing and towing and towing and still I go to start this POS this morning and it will not start. It's a non turbo and I keep seem to realize how a all-motor car can be so complex and shitty.

Excuse the rant.... 2009 was when I got a new motor put in there since then I have:

New timing belt
New valve cover gasket
endless amount of spark plugs I can't even guess how many I bought
wires, oil change, gas cleaner fuel injector cleaner
new tires
towing and towing
paying for labor for shops to work on the car
new PCM after PCM after PCM
And most recently latterly and the past month up to this morning
new spark plugs
camshaft senor
crankshaft sensor
gas cleaner
fuel injector cleaner
Pcm
fuel filter
new fuel injector
fuel pump
:ohdamn:
I am so fed up I am about to give up on my dsm dreams I want to turbo this car and make 400hp ( with supporting mods of course Trust I know and seen it all from 8 sec dsms to 0-60 in 2.8 sec evo's)
I have made want to turn this shit box into a beast but I just can't get it running again.

I eventually what to do an awd conversion and evo 8 swap but I really need some help figuring out WHY THIS CAR WON'T WORK.

The shops I have taken this car to are
RC hill mitsbishi
Meinke
s&e automotive
and another shop in orange city fl that I can't remember

Honestly I love this car it is so BAD ASS pearl orange chrome rims chrome style tail lights turbo spoiler Brand new AEM cold air intake forgot to mention that. I m piss poor emotionally and just tired is there any hop for this car before I do the unthinkable and trade it or sell it?
 
grab a haynes manual and save yourself thousands in shop costs, do the work yourself....also more info about the no-start problem, does it try to turn over or just click?

and if you're replacing the same parts over and over, i'd stop taking your car to all of those shops anyways, they're screwing your car over even more.

also, what's your reason for replacing the spark plugs so often?
 
I keep seem to realize how a all-motor car can be so complex

paying for labor for shops to work on the car

Trust I know and seen it all from 8 sec dsms to 0-60 in 2.8 sec evo's

I eventually what to do an awd conversion and evo 8 swap but

chrome style tail lights turbo spoiler
If you "know and seen it all" then you'd be able to figure out why your car doesn't start. You'd also know how ridiculously expensive it will be for your AWD/EVO8 swap.

Sell your car. You are going to have way too much money into it for your upcoming plans, which by the way I can guarantee you'll never complete. Since you're not even doing your own work you're going to have about $20k-$30k or even more in just labor. For that price why not just BUY an Evo?
 
I thank you for your response and i was told the spark plugs were needed and i replaced them. I think you are right about me needing to become the cars mechanic, but i am an architectural drafter and i am going thru college as well i don't think i would have the time(BUT I CAN DAMN SURE TRY WITH THIS FORUMS MOTIVATION). I have owned a haynes manual for 8 years and have done some work on my own changed a timing belt but car wouldnt start but that was a long time ago....i still have the manual.

The car has had fuel issues since the engine replacement in 2009, there is a valve on the fuel rail and i would press that button and gas would shoot out and the car would start this was in 2009 -2010 before hand it would just turn over and no start. On the present it has the same issue i took the car to mienike car center in deland fl and they replaced a fuel pump and other things listed above. sept-oct i have been towing this car back and forth to the car center and they got it running like a beast, 4th gear is sputtering but 1-3 is pulling hard as #### for a N/A(THIS WAS YESTERDAY) This morning i go to start the car and it won't start pressed to valve on the fuel rail wont shoot any fuel, it will turn over but not start.
 
BURROW i dont want to sound like an ass but i know your car inside and out i have a haynes manual about it and have read it I have been watching car building videos for five + years seen 1000whp supra tt built from scatch electrical harness and all.
i AM VERY MUCH AWARE OF THE COST TO DO THE SWAP and i knew you were going to say get an evo (i have had this car for 10 years! i dont want to have to sell it and i love it to death)
 
well, if no fuel is coming out, in a situaton where it used to come out, sounds like a fuel issue to me....



wait, does the car have gas? :|
 
235k miles i put on my old 98rs. The ONLY problem i ever had was the egr pipe melting wires nearby causing weird problems. I figured that out about the 3rd time it happened. Went right to it. Not another problem. You simply need to break out the book. Is your pump priming w ignition in the ON position? It should. Theyre not like 4gs, the pump goes on right away, doesnt need a signal.

Lemme know if you hear the pump. Then you need to check 3 other things: Injecors pulses, spark, and compression.
 
I paid a shop to do the tough mechanic work car has spark and fuel( unless a fuel pump went bad in less than 24 hours which might have happened). I think it is time for me to be a real tuner step up and start buying some tools :hellyeah:, the haynes manual tells you everything i just didnt take the route but now i am starting to see that it needs to be done.


should i start a build or get it running since it is so close and daily drive while making upgrades?

What do you guys think?
 
Not trying to be rude here at all but if you are having problems like this with an NA car then good luck with an AWD swap and turbo.

Unless you are willing to get the manuals and tools to do the work yourself then sell it. You will be tossing good money after bad just like you are. If you want a bad ass car like you say then get some manuals, use the search function here and some tools.

Don't get the Haynes manual. Get an OE set from ebay for $25, use VFAQ and the search function on here and fix your car.

http://www.vfaq.com/index-main.html
 
BURROW i dont want to sound like an ass but i know your car inside and out i have a haynes manual about it and have read it I have been watching car building videos for five + years seen 1000whp supra tt built from scatch electrical harness and all.
i AM VERY MUCH AWARE OF THE COST TO DO THE SWAP and i knew you were going to say get an evo (i have had this car for 10 years! i dont want to have to sell it and i love it to death)

Would honestly think that someone who "knows these cars inside and out" would know how to fix this issue on their own DSM. 5+ years of watching videos and reading about it doesn't mean you know how to do it. Watching/reading is totally different from actually getting your hands dirty and doing the work yourself. Don't think I'm attacking you here, as I'm not. Simply stating what I think based on what I've read here.

The Hynes manual, like the Chilton's manual, DON'T tell you everything.
 
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(LETS JUST SAY I KNOW ALOT ABOUT THE DSM PLATFORM AND I AM NOT COMPLETELY DUMB ABOUT THESE KINDS) OF CARS OR MY CAR. A mechanic has still failed to fix my car after a grand wroth of work as well keep in mind i got my car out of the shop yesterday and it broke this morning this is no easy fix.


by alot i mean i know what parts are on the car where they are located where to get parts what size turbo is suited for what hp and so on and so on....etc...etc....
 
^^^^ Ditto, spyderdrifter
Also, if you think any NA car thats built in the 90s can throw you a curveball just wait til you deal with forced induction and the myriad of problems you can run in to there. I speak from real experience, turbo is a lot tougher to troubleshoot and because we push the car past its limits, they are more prone to multiple failures.

Lol, im just thinking of those manuals and how in every picture they have absolutely spotless parts, no rust-welded bolts, no oil caked on. Oh and they have every tool too. Hahaha some of the pics make doing a t belt job,or pulling the ehad look like falling off a log its so easy. (cant say on that one, never done it with engine in car)
 
Yep^^^^ not to mention the ones in the manuals haven't been molested and mutilated over the years by people who think they know how to work on these cars but really don't (not suggesting OP here, just in general).
 
ugghhhhhh, the mangled harness is the worst. Almost every single dsm ive seen has some ghetto ass rigged stereo along with a "viper" alarm. Causes a tremendous headache working under the dash. Most would agree: thats one of the worst places to work in a dsm.
 
Before i go any further i want to thank everyone for posting and giving a crap to even say anything

i'm still trying to figure out what to do from here your opinions on the matter of what i should do will be read thoroughly. I'm at work right now so i can't check the car out because i'm in another city but when i get home i'll be sure to check all things you guys said.
 
Hmm, small world; I buy all my OEM Mitsubishi parts from R.C. Hill. They have an online store so I don't have to speak to any imbiciles. As for your car issues, there's no way your car should be going through all those tons of spark plugs, PCM's, fuel pumps, etc... There's a good chance that your problem was started somewhere during the nine years before you owned your car. Do you have a returnless fuel system, or is there a return? Was it originally built that way? Don't get mad and type in all caps when I say this, but there's possibly a detail or two that you don't know about your car. Obviously if you knew everything you wouldn't be on here asking questions, and you wouldn't be taking your car to all these shops to try to solve your issue. Get a fuel pressure tester, a scanner, a multimeter, and a factory service manual. Use the troubleshooting tips and the diagnositc tree charts. Be inquisitive, do research, google is your friend, and don't assume you know everything.
 
Ok colt sounds good

Sorry about the caps I work at an architectural practice and working on Construction Documents at the moment and talking to you at the same time. All words on a set of construction documents must be written in all caps so i forget to turn off caps lock sometimes.
 
ugghhhhhh, the mangled harness is the worst. Almost every single dsm ive seen has some ghetto ass rigged stereo along with a "viper" alarm. Causes a tremendous headache working under the dash. Most would agree: thats one of the worst places to work in a dsm.

I feel your pain. My last one, '95 GST, had at least 50 feet of extra wiring under the steering column alone. Mostly to an aftermarket alarm that was previously removed. My engine harness was so mangled with zip ties and drinking straws (used in place of heat shrink), that I had to buy an entire new harness. But sadly, I've worked on a few since then that were way worse, luckily not mine.


Anyway, in addition to the EGR wires being mentioned, when you get the chance, go back and run through your vacuum lines. I know it's a long shot to being your issue, but there's one vac line that runs behind the intake manifold and around the right side of the head by the intake pipe, that runs to the EGR solenoid. The last 420a DSM I worked on had to have that replaced due to heat damage. May also want to check the EGR to see if it's actually functioning. Just need a vacuum tester for that. That process is indeed in the Haynes manual so you're aware. I used the very manual for the one I worked with.
 
Check the wires by the egr pipe first. They always melt. They go to the cas I believe. Also some Chrysler products have a security lock down or what not on the ecu and allows the ecu to be I like a security mode where the car will not start. But check the cas wires they melt all the time. I have seen several cars have no start issue and it was the wires. Might as well replace the sensor while your at it.
 
colt i don't know if there is a return line after how many times i've seen my pump, but i might be able to get some $$$$ from a family member and take the car to rc hill which i don't want to do........but i'm using her car to get to and from work and taking the bus sucks. My situation has turned to i need a car now and i need to be driving as soon as possible.
When i first got the car from the shop yesterday the mechanic said that it takes awhile for it to start like key turned 10 sec later presto starts...if that helps explain anything. I'm just worried that rc hill is going to get another $500 bill out of me, just for me to take the car home and and the next day i go to try and start it and it won't start.
 
I must be missing something. You've owned the car for 9 years, but basically don't know anything about it? It sounds like your local mechanics are taking you for a ride.. Do you have any friends that are into cars? Even if its a different brand, they could be a lot of help, and a lot cheaper.
 
I must be missing something. You've owned the car for 9 years, but basically don't know anything about it? It sounds like your local mechanics are taking you for a ride.. Do you have any friends that are into cars? Even if its a different brand, they could be a lot of help, and a lot cheaper.

LOL ^^^
 
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