Awsome thread man!

Good progress on the build so far.
so are you using the 5 speed F5M21 transmission, also what 6 bolt fwd flywheel are you running?

is the F5M21 transmission better geared then the 1g fwd F5M33.
I'd also like to know how this trans setup holds up so keep us posted.

mitsubishikid said:

Good progress on the build so far.
so are you using the 5 speed F5M21 transmission, also what 6 bolt fwd flywheel are you running?

is the F5M21 transmission better geared then the 1g fwd F5M33.
I'd also like to know how this trans setup holds up so keep us posted.

Click to expand...

I am using the original 1.5L trans with an ACT HD 6-puck un-sprung (don't laugh it's not funny) as it's been said it will hold the power, with a 1g NA flywheel that clears the trans. the cable clutch needed a LOT (over 1") of spacers to get the pedal off the floor. I hope it works correctly. it definitely disengages though. I wish I had the 1.8 hydro trans but I do not. I'm using what I have.

Apparently the 1.5L trans hols us decently with the power. some say it's about like a 2g trans but just don't launch the hell out of it. I'm not really planning on beating it, I'm a nice shifter . the gearing....I don't know the ratio's offhand but I think I'm around 2,500RPM @ 70mph. it's not high geared at all. My speedo runs out at 120KPH tho (EVO3 one) so I can only get about 115mph before I am in unknown land

I will definitely let you know how it does.

The gearing isn't ideal in the 1.5 trans but from what I researched it should hold stock-300 hp alright provided you don't beat on it. Every time I look at this project I want to pick another one of these cars up and actually do the swap this time!

HaveBlue83 said:

I am using the original 1.5L trans with an ACT HD 6-puck un-sprung (don't laugh it's not funny) as it's been said it will hold the power, with a 1g NA flywheel that clears the trans. the cable clutch needed a LOT (over 1") of spacers to get the pedal off the floor. I hope it works correctly. it definitely disengages though. I wish I had the 1.8 hydro trans but I do not. I'm using what I have.

Apparently the 1.5L trans hols us decently with the power. some say it's about like a 2g trans but just don't launch the hell out of it. I'm not really planning on beating it, I'm a nice shifter . the gearing....I don't know the ratio's offhand but I think I'm around 2,500RPM @ 70mph. it's not high geared at all. My speedo runs out at 120KPH tho (EVO3 one) so I can only get about 115mph before I am in unknown land

I will definitely let you know how it does.

Click to expand...

thanks for the info man, and no I'm definitely not laughing, I mentioned the transmission cause I swaped the F5M21 in place of a slush box auto KM172
3 speed on my colt vista, it worked great, I used the cable setup cause I didn't want to rip out my vista's dash to install the hydraulic setup, so I drilled a hole for the cable clutch F5M21 setup instead, a lot less work and so far I like the better power and great mpg.

mitsubishikid said:

thanks for the info man, and no I'm definitely not laughing, I mentioned the transmission cause I swaped the F5M21 in place of a slush box auto KM172
3 speed on my colt vista, it worked great, I didn't want to rip out my vista's dash to install the hydraulic setup, so I drilled a hole for the cable clutch F5M21 setup instead, a lot less work and so far I like the better power and great mpg.

Click to expand...

oh ok gotcha. yeah I wont do auto. my car has 185K on it, the trans seems great. I had some hard shifting issues and some redline MT-90 stopped all of it and it has been quiet for a year. it's a really nice shifting trans. I think I have a solid one here. I Wanted to do the 2G swap with an LSD but the funds just aren't there. I figure I can run the 1.5 for a decent while and be ok. I will be filling the PS mount with window weld as the DS one is already and I think I'm gonna need that to secure it better. I forgot to do that last weekend

I just want it running so it makes it all worth it. I'm SO close! I sometimes wonder if I shoulda finished my panda 2g but this car makes me every time I drive it or look at it. it's too damn cute, and I like small cars.

While moving the battery in and out for the tray install, plus how it sits like a 2g DSM in the back of the bay I somehow installed the battery backwards last week!!!! Pos went to Neg, NOT good. I'm a Retard. I can swap in a 4g63, but I screw up a BATTERY connection?! Yeah..... I blew the 80A main fuse at the main engine fuse box. I am going to grab a spare at a yard. In the meantime we jumped the blown fuse with a 30A fusable link and flipped the battery around. All was well. 30A held and I see NO damage anywhere from the screw-up. That fuse took it all I believe.

AFTER all that dumb crap was undone we worked on the IGN relay from the 2G DSM harness and got that to work the starter correctly with key in START and clutch in. it works like stock so that is all good. the other main thing we need to get power *properly* to is the MPI (fuel pump & ECU) relay. we bypassed the fuel pump relay and the wally 255 turned right on and my AFPR showed 42.5 pressure just like it was on my 2g DSM. Everything after the relay is good to go. That's about all that's left unless I find some other wires that are critical for start up and running.

We cannot find ANY other switched 12V+ for just the MPI relay in the mirage dash harness connectors. We might have to splice into the Black/white 12v+ IGN relay wire to power up the MPI relay as well. From the Mirage dash harness there is the Thick black/white IGN 12v+ switched, a thick Black/Yellow HOT wire, a thin yellow/red switched 12x, but no thick switched 12v+ for MPI alone, amongst other wires. This is where the 2g and mirage plugs are not seeing eye to eye. We have to go 1 wire at a time and do the "does this get power? ok, connect it to this and does that get is what we need" kinda tedious stuff. we got the IGN relay done easily. there are 2 Thick Black/red wires and one is switched 12V+ and one isn't. you have to get them connected in the right order or the relay won't work.


the gauges are in and work, the fluids are filled, it's just gonna be a tedious wiring thing with a multimeter for awhile. I will be back in 2 weeks to try again. I will get up pics if I have any when I can.

Some pics.:

the 2g wiring harness fits right in to the stock mirage location well. The ECU needed the one mounting tab flattened to fit in the stock mirage location. I got one bolt to mount up perfectly to secure it. the MPI and IGN relay will be in that kick panel as well. I think it will be a great fit. I will make up some mounting brackets later for the relays.
I also cut off an OBD2 pigtail and I ran it from the ECU to under the Heater core. This will be for the link cable. I never liked the OBD port near my legs while driving. I will permanently tape and secure all of these up after I verify it working ok. I am using all 3M tape and nice big crimps.




Everything is all bolted up and tucked into a nice compact area. I still have to do a little massaging of the SMIC and front bumper. I might need to move the SMIC in or back a little bit.


my camera makes the car look like it just was just painted haha. I still love my wheel color

I did take some real pictures with my DSLR for fun last weekend. It looks like next weekend I will be up to work on it some more. My dad has the shop electrical manuals and he's taking a crack at the MPI wiring. he is an old timer but he did put a 90's 5.0 FI into a 66 vert stang and it ran so he's seen this wiring before.










Looks like next weekend I'm finishing up power wiring!

A buddy just got me the HOOKUP!



pin 2 goes to the engine sensors + wires
pins 5 and 6 are switched ground from the ECU

12v all times on pins 4 and 8
12v on run/start on pin 7
ECU sent grounds on pins 5 and 6
Power to fuel pump pin 1
12v power to ECU pin 3
12v power to sensors pin 2

PIN 1 blk/blu
PIN 2 red
PIN 3 blk/red
PIN 4 red/blk
PIN 5 wht/red
PIN 6 blu/grn
PIN 7 blk/wht
PIN 8 red/blk

---------------------------------------------------------------------

EDIT: I ordered an eBay 2.5" catback for a 92 Civic sedan. yeah, they fit right up with some hangers moved around and extending the front pipe

nice build HaveBlue83! Keep us all updated!

***************************UPDATE****************************

The MPI Relay diagram worked perfectly. I was able to power up the ECU and fuel pump after powering the relay up. I had an issue with the car cranking and getting fuel and spark but not starting up on sat. I needed the resistor pack off my 2g DSM's firewall for the Injectors to fire properly. My buddy told me about that and I didn't realize what that guy did before now. The car started right up after I installed that! It idles, revs and I can move it around. My OBD port is without power as the 2g DSM uses a fused link in the engine bay and the mirage doesn't have that. I have to get unswitched 12v to that wire so I can connect with link and tune it. Timing and fuel trims are off, but it runs! It's ALIVE!!!!!!!!!!!. I have a small turbo oil leak and I had a big coolant leak at the rad but that is fixed. Clutch is low but engages fin and feels pretty good.

Enjoy my open downpipe HKS272 goodness! eBay 2.5" catback will be here this week.

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tRbIQnnBBCY]4G63 CSM Summit swap first drive out of garage. - YouTube[/ame]

I had to connect a ground wire and update my firmware.


guess what I got to do today? set fuel trims, and cruise around!!!

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qyDt9MJDkp8]4G63 Mirage test drive. - YouTube[/ame]


car goes in monday morning for the exhaust install. =)

Going in for exhaust fitting up tomorrow. I took it home tonite! No more shop life.


screen shot on a pc

this place is a ghost town! .

car is tuned. 12psi WG pressure with a boost spike to 20psi, 18deg of timing, high 10's -low 11's Afr. 12psi from 3500-5000, at 5 it starts to spike, after that it's a banshee to 7K when I let off. I coulda went higher but it's just an easy tune my buddy did to break it all in. engine is good for 8500 if i really wanted to. it pulls hard and feels like a rocketship at 5K+. the best part is there is NO wheelspin . the way the boost comes on and creeps is PERFECT for a fwd car. I am on the IWG with no MBC so it's totally stock looking and perfect. I love it. We were going to run it at 20psi all the time but we figured why do that if it will just spin and waste tires and time if the boost curve works so well?

the clutch is a pita and way way low. i think the cable is stretching. I need a 1.8 trans ASAP. there is one in a local yard and I hope it's still there. if it is im gonna pull it and do the swap. this shit is crazy stiff. im grinding gears it's so low. i will attempt to raise it up more but if it slips the clutch it's coming out.

I have an issue with crank-case overpressurization. I don't have the VC breather to the intake installed, my dipstick is old as hell and my PCV seems OK. I just ordered a new pcv and dipstick, and I am reconnecting the VC line to the intake when i install the new parts. I have oil spewing out my pushed up worn out dipstick. its BAD. the hood is soaked. the engine runs amazing, it's not the rings. can't be. it pulls hard as hell and the exhaust doesn't smell a bit of oil.

I will get some vid's up when I can.

this car is retarded fast above 5Krpms when it goes to 20psi. like I love speed and this thing is SCARY on a non highway. If I stop posting suddenly..... I'm probably dead. Seriously. This is just the base tune at 18deg peak timing. My buddy already has a new tune when I'm ready. I didn't really realize exactly HOW fast the car would be...... it's 100% useable and it doesn't spin. I feel ALL of the power. it's........well it's SICK .

Also, I was able to bring my pedal up off the floor more. the clutch is not slipping and the trans feels ok. I am going to grab the 1.8 as a spare. I have the pedals w/mast cyl and the hard line for the trans already.

thanks everyone for the assistance, All that is left is to run my wiper motor wiring (plug n play), trans speed sensor for the ecu, fan control via ECU, and reverse wire for the lights. rear seats are going back in soon for the stock look. D0M0 will be in a car seat back there .

pic from today

Some pics from MOD East Coast and drivng around.


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Car is now on 20psi. This much fun should be illegal.....and it probably is haha

176.37% a dud.

Hey man, i saw your ride at east coast MOD. Nice job with the swap. Just got caught up with your build thread. It takes a lot of patience and hard work to pull those swaps off. I know, i was the 3g summit there. I wish we could've met. I enjoy talking cars with a fellow csmer. Are you on 4g61t.org also?
Anyhow, here are a few pics i took with my phone of your car. Sorry if they're kinda shitty, i'm not much of a photographer.

Need videos of some pulls please =]

So clean I like it!


I have a question though. On post #25, I see a rubber plug in place of where the A/C usually comes through the firewall. Looks the same as a 1g has, is there a part # on it? I would like to plug mine off like that.

Booosted Maniac said:

Need videos of some pulls please =]

Click to expand...

OK!

Summit WOT 3rd - YouTube



and that plug....its on a lot of mirages in yards that have no AC. i dunno where else you would find them.

Car is currently my DD as my new car needs brake pads....it's running well, but has a TB leak causing high idle revs. Other than that it's a champ!


free image hosting

This car is sweet. Have you been able to auto-x it or track it yet?

Nah not yet. The 1/4mi opens this weekend. It wont get autocrossed until i get some shocks! Im mexicali on stock ones right now. The list for this year is:

Install:
-2g GSX calipers
-HPS pads
-mini cooper S front rotors
-3000GT brake mast cyl
-1.8L mirage Hydro trans

Purchase:
-KYB AGX shocks
-rear disk conversion + rear mini s rotors


Finish:
-backup lights
-random electronics
-retune at track

I'd love to see some videos of this on the track, why are you going with the mini rotors? Size I would assume