I would start with maintenance and start replacing missing body parts, such as the side skirt cap thats gone and anything else.

Then after maintenance, mind as well buy the next best thing, dsmlink and a wide band.

350-400 is all in fuel and tune. Plenty of options on that.

Intake, exhaust, fuel pump, fuel pressure regulator, fmic, injectors, tune, your there. Maybe a 16g-20g turbo if you want more toward 400.

All depends on what you want to spend, you get there with a little over a grand or 5 grand if you buy the latest and greatest.

grothe3297venge said:

I would start with maintenance and start replacing missing body parts, such as the side skirt cap thats gone and anything else.

Then after maintenance, mind as well buy the next best thing, dsmlink and a wide band.

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Yeah they are in the trunk...gotta get them painted..

I'm a perfectionist so this is what I do when I get a car:

1) Clean everything (this way you get familiar with the car and discover any hack jobs done by previous owner(s)

2) Maintenance on everything (fluids, hoses, belts, etc.)

2) Fix all broken factory pieces/make all factory parts looks like new (paint faded side skirts, replace wheel center caps, etc.)

4) Modify


I like to know what I have bought before I start to make it better. It's easier to measure progress.

Get an upper timing belt cover and recirculate your BOV.

Hmmm I was thinking this thread was going to be about something else... Haha

Surprised no one has said hood pins. Just a safe insurance for your hood and windshield.

synthetek said:

Get an upper timing belt cover and recirculate your BOV.

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+1

Also rewiring your fuel pump is a cheap modification that will help you when you near $400.

AngelOfPassion said:

Hmmm I was thinking this thread was going to be about something else... Haha

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nah figured id keep it car friendly

DJ Raydiate said:

Surprised no one has said hood pins. Just a safe insurance for your hood and windshield.

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nah ill just remove the hood

you can do the first and most important thing that everyone here will overlook every time... take that valve cover off and mail it to me, damn I need a new one.

All jokes aside, start with your basic maintenance that'll do a lot for ya.

Hillala said:

you can do the first and most important thing that everyone here will overlook every time... take that valve cover off and mail it to me, damn I need a new one.

All jokes aside, start with your basic maintenance that'll do a lot for ya.

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then what will i use???

First thing I'd upgrade (I say this to every 2G GS-T owner) is GSX front brake calipers. Seriously, the factory GST front brakes are scary, deathly scary at ~400hp. In your case, getting the fitting on the RS BOV that lets you recirculate back to your intake would be my first thing. I've checked the prices on 16G's (real 16G turbos) lately and holy cow doesn't really make a lot of sense anymore. Regardless, to turn up the boost a walbro fuel pump, boost controller, injectors and something to tune said injectors would be on my checklist.

Hideki said:

First thing I'd upgrade (I say this to every 2G GS-T owner) is GSX front brake calipers. Seriously, the factory GST front brakes are scary, deathly scary at ~400hp. In your case, getting the fitting on the RS BOV that lets you recirculate back to your intake would be my first thing. I've checked the prices on 16G's (real 16G turbos) lately and holy cow doesn't really make a lot of sense anymore. Regardless, to turn up the boost a walbro fuel pump, boost controller, injectors and something to tune said injectors would be on my checklist.

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Go fast for cheap doesnt exist in this day and age sadly, doesnt matter what you drive, people out looking for a 16g might as well get an fp black, same damn price.

Btw, green 2g's rock! Especially with cf hoods!

Yes i seriously considering an FP turbo....I live in Baltimore MD ill either be going to LaScoula or Absolute proformance for the basic checks.....

urbansmoker1 said:

Go fast for cheap doesnt exist in this day and age sadly, doesnt matter what you drive, people out looking for a 16g might as well get an fp black, same damn price.

Btw, green 2g's rock! Especially with cf hoods!

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Yes i will be swapping the CF hood to a stock style cf like yours with vent cut outs once i make sure shes running properly

Get the heat shields back on there. Check all WG lines and boost leak test. Plugs/wires, recommended oil (I use Valv VR1 20W50), trans oil (Redline MT85 or 90) and BLT. Compression test.

Get her running top so you know its worth your time. Then onto brakes, ball joints, control arms, motor mounts... knock that stuff out in the beginning. I say first because you said its a DD. Dont forget to get the wheels weighted and a good alignment. Brakes, for your power goals, will need to be upgraded to the GSX brakes. AWD models come equipped with bigger dual piston calipers and bigger rotors which you will need when you start to approach your power goals.

Well all of this is of course if you do plan to make 350-400 like you said.

Oh and recirculate that BOV.

It definitely doesn't hurt to check your plugs, plug wires, intake, fuses, belts
all the basic stuff when you first get a car

What everyone else said, do all the basic stuff first, maintenance, hood pins if you're keeping the CF hood and if its your daily driver, always have money on the side.

Oh and did I mention? Get hood pins.

Defiantly check fluids belts and hoses and depending on when u start to modify if it is gonna be soon the first thing I would do is v3 with sd bundle or gm maf so no need to recirculate bov and check shaft play on turbo if is stock t25 get rid of it then of course fuel upgrades injectors pump fpr stuff like that

like everyone said maintenance first, and look through the classified for bolt on mods that replace some stock stuff.

CruDSM said:

Yes i seriously considering an FP turbo....I live in Baltimore MD ill either be going to LaScoula or Absolute proformance for the basic checks.....

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If you need a shop to check out the car for you, then your in the wrong game. Paying shops is why many DSM owners have tens of thousands sunk into a 15-second mechanical nightmare.

urbansmoker1 said:

Go fast for cheap doesnt exist in this day and age sadly, doesnt matter what you drive, people out looking for a 16g might as well get an fp black, same damn price.

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Because a $2,000 70lb/min turbo is basically the same as a $300, 40lb/min turbo.

Agreed, dont take it to a shop. If and WHEN you take it to a machinist double, triple check that mofo. I cant tell you the money wasted and headaches from a bad machinist ive had in the past. Gotta be real careful on that choice.

WES_393 said:

If you need a shop to check out the car for you, then your in the wrong game. Paying shops is why many DSM owners have tens of thousands sunk into a 15-second mechanical nightmare.



Because a $2,000 70lb/min turbo is basically the same as a $300, 40lb/min turbo.

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I dunnonwhere you have been but a new 16g is not $300 dollars, maybe a rebuildable core now a days, but new 16g's are going for 6-800 and a jb fp black is 800. So yeah a new 16g and a new fp black are the same price.

I got a use 16g 3 years ago for $300 and sold it for 450, people now days are selling good used 16g's ffor almost 5-600.

urbansmoker1 said:

I dunnonwhere you have been but a new 16g is not $300 dollars, maybe a rebuildable core now a days, but new 16g's are going for 6-800 and a jb fp black is 800. So yeah a new 16g and a new fp black are the same price.

I got a use 16g 3 years ago for $300 and sold it for 450, people now days are selling good used 16g's ffor almost 5-600.

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Seems steep to me, I just bought one for 350 shipped not to long ago

There was a vendor on here selling one single new 16g for 800 i feel like it was MAP