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Thanks, will look up more info about it.

On a press brake like that if you need to go less than 90, simply don't go all the way down.

As far as the actual manual bender, this one is about as good of a design/instructions as i could find. This is another nice one from Miller.
Here is a crude-er version. Works exactly same way as one in previous link, just slightly different (simpler) construction.
 
What keeps the flux-sand from contaminating the weld? Or does it simply float to the top of the molten metal puddle that forms during welding?

Its a granulated flux, not sand. The flux is a mixture of fusible mineral compounds that are mixed to specific formulations. The flux de-oxidizes and cleans the weld pool of contaminates. Also, as the flux fuses together, it becomes a molten slag just like with "stick" welding, and it protects the weld pool from the atmosphere. SAW is an awesome process used to join thick materials very quickly. The weld quality that you get with a mechanized SAW setup is some of the best that I have ever seen and you don't even have to wear a helmet :thumb:
 
I just found out my head is trash, so I'm trying to salvage it. I've already cleaned it up and going to pre-heat it, but I'd like to get an expert opinion before I fubar it.

The head knob on the longevity, is it clockwise for cleaning? It's been long since I've touched it


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Ya that first pic looks bad.
This is my first end tank I've ever built and I learned a lot of things!
-When your good plasma cutter breaks, and you have to use one without a pilot arc and a bad tip it doesn't help your cuts. LOL
-Tanking the end tanks off and welding onto those existing tabs yields HORRIBLE results.
-Using a cut off wheel cut off the tabs where the old end tanks were.
-Use a propane torch and brush and get rid of the old gasket and be careful because a lot of it gets hidden in places and doesn't show itself until you weld it. Hence that bad looking weld at the top in the first pic.
-Use a cardboard template! I just designed as I went and tried to copy the existing end tanks.
-Use a bandsaw and it would help to get a bender!
-.090 -.0100 is plenty thick
-As you can see on the left side I started to make it look like the right side (just square) then realized I need a place for the pipe and had to add the triangle shapes in place.
-Take your time. I feel like i was rushing a few spots because I really wanted to see the outcome. Well I'm 4+ hours into it. Still have to fill it with water and boost leak test it and give it some universal brackets.

So I hope when I do another one I'll have a bender, a shear (that would be great) and a lot more patience.
 
Ya that first pic looks bad.
This is my first end tank I've ever built and I learned a lot of things!
-When your good plasma cutter breaks, and you have to use one without a pilot arc and a bad tip it doesn't help your cuts. LOL
-Tanking the end tanks off and welding onto those existing tabs yields HORRIBLE results.
-Using a cut off wheel cut off the tabs where the old end tanks were.
-Use a propane torch and brush and get rid of the old gasket and be careful because a lot of it gets hidden in places and doesn't show itself until you weld it. Hence that bad looking weld at the top in the first pic.
-Use a cardboard template! I just designed as I went and tried to copy the existing end tanks.
-Use a bandsaw and it would help to get a bender!
-.090 -.0100 is plenty thick
-As you can see on the left side I started to make it look like the right side (just square) then realized I need a place for the pipe and had to add the triangle shapes in place.
-Take your time. I feel like i was rushing a few spots because I really wanted to see the outcome. Well I'm 4+ hours into it. Still have to fill it with water and boost leak test it and give it some universal brackets.

So I hope when I do another one I'll have a bender, a shear (that would be great) and a lot more patience.

This is why you get a press preak and a shere. Lol problems solved. Your welds will look tits.
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Ever shear I've seen is limited to about .050 unless it's hydraulic.
Any cheap press brakes? I don't think I would use them that much, but a shear I would use a LOT.
 
I was going to fabricate a press break out of large angle iron. :) i havent looked into sheres but yeah one would greatly help me also. How have you been bending these catch cans of yours?

No bending needed.
Plasma cut, grind, weld.
 
Oh I know what you mean. But can't find one for the garage that will cut .100 and not cost an arm and a leg.
Ed that looks good. Carefully grind it down and see if there are any pin holes under it.
 
I need to work on getting the right look.

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Plugged a 14mm heater port hole, welded a 1/8NPT bung on the other heater port and welded shut another smaller port that fed the throttle body

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-8AN male bung over the stock breather hole

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You can kinda make out one of the beads for the intake manifold reflange and the -6AN male bung welded to the stock fuel rail

I had to weld up 2 of the throttle body bolt holes as the spacing wasn't right for the Mitsubishi throttle body, that was a pain in the ass, i kept contaminating the tungsten trying to get the heat and the filler down the 8mm hole.

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Another horrible looking weld for the -8AN catch can vacuum port
 
Hey all. I started playing around with the welder at work. Our machinist uses it occasionally for some small welding, but he is a machinist, not a welder. Neither one of us really knows too much about the history of the equipment, so I'll post what I know.

Lincoln Square Wave Tig 175 Pro 220v
2% Thoriated 3/32 Tungsten
Pure Ar
I set the dial to about 75 for SS and 110 for Al
And wishing I had an auto-darkening helmet...


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Here's a couple pieces I did today: standoff on an aluminum bracket and an old 3" SS downpipe I cut up. Any suggestions and general advice is appreciated!

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Less than that. 1/4" or shorter (ideally) but use a larger cup too.
 
How much was that model tig sax?




What do you guys like for the angle on the tip..I always liked mine a little sharper,even tho sometimes that sharp tip would mess me up..
 
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