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1g awd clutch disengagemnet isssue with noise!!!

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craracer05

Supporting Member
357
90
Sep 29, 2005
Warren, Ohio
Ok I've been working on dang clutch for weeks now. I just reassembled the car after sitting for four years. I installed a brand new fidanza flywheel, act 2600 with street disc. I was having horrible disengagement issues. I first replaced the master and slave cylinder and bleed them for days until I finally got good pressure on the pedal. Once I did this there was enough pedal pressure to discover a worn pedal assembly. I pulled that yesterday clamped everything in place and welded it up. Now the pedal feels great!! So I tried to crank it over in first gear pedal depressed and the dang thing still walks with the starter!! So I tried pushing the pedal in, car running and in neutral, only to discover horrible grinding and squealing as soon as the tob contacts the pressure plate. It is a brand new ACT tob probably my problem but I haven't put one mile on the dang thing yet. My fork is new and so is the pivot ball. I also have one washer under the pivot ball currently. Clutch fork is about a 1/4" away from the edge of the fork window when fully depressed. I can see the pressure plate lifting approximately 1/16" if I get it cranked over to the right spot. Can't figure this out, my next step is to drop the transmission. :cry:
 

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Already adjusted to this video still won't disengage. Went till the slave locked up and then backed of the master until it could move again.
 
I'm not either I have followed every video and write up to a "T" besides not using an OEM throw out bearing. At this point I'm wondering if its the wrong flywheel, clutch is in backwards or what I'm not sure....
 
Had this exact issue.

Mine turned out to be the bolts from the trans to the block had backed themselves out and the trans was about an inch away from the block.

Clutch could also be on backwards. The "smooth" side of the clutch should be facing the block, the spring/hub side would be facing the tranny side.
 
Did you play with the petal height may be its to high? Think whats happening here is your over extending the clutch pressure plate and its hitting the disk causing it to lock up on the flywheel. Try playing with the petal height adjustment (lower it to just about the break petal height) then readjust the master rod so there is just a touch of free play and try again. You may also have a bent clutch disk from letting the trans hang on it when installing.

You really cant put the disk in backwards on these cars at least from what i have seen.
 
I'm not sure on the pedal height I get as soon as the pedal moves about an inch. Almost like as soon as the TOB touches the PP it makes noise now. How far should the pressure plate fingers move in order to disengage the clutch? For that matter how far should the plate be lifting up away from the disc/flywheel?
 
I'm not sure on the pedal height I get as soon as the pedal moves about an inch. Almost like as soon as the TOB touches the PP it makes noise now. How far should the pressure plate fingers move in order to disengage the clutch? For that matter how far should the plate be lifting up away from the disc/flywheel?

Well if it's making noise like you said that throw out bearing needs to be replaced with an OEM unit and see what's going on once you have the clutch appart.
 
Is possible the flywheel is incorrect, like maybe a fwd turbo or something?

Another idea I had today is what if the the grinding noise is the clutch disc trying to slip but not since I'm not disengaging at all?
 
where is the flywheel from, might have a tob problem as also. I never used a shim either, I thought about that but once I adjusted my rod it was fine.
 
Ok got the trans dropped only to discover the ACT TOB broke into three pieces!!! All I can say is what a piece of crap, the car never even left the garage only has a half hour of idle time on!!! I'm going to examine the clutch further tomorrow.

Ok got the transmission dropped here are some pictures so far.
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I'm hoping the pressure plate is ok you can on the bottom right some fingers are grooved and they look a little pushed in. Hoping to get it ripped apart the rest of the way this morning. :mad:
 
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^^^ I dont like the fact the fingers are damaged as its will just lead to another TOB failure. You might have to get a whole new kit or send it out to ACT to have it repaired. Also you didnt install the TOB clip correctly you need to flip it around so it goes over the top of the bearing. Its a pain to put on but thats how its sopose to be.
 
Already picked up an OEM one since I was dropping the trans anyway, and I'm not sure on the pressure plate I barely id anything except push it a few times at idle. I'm going to send the pictures to ACT tomorrow and see what they say.
 
:cool:r
Already picked up an OEM one since I was dropping the trans anyway, and I'm not sure on the pressure plate I barely id anything except push it a few times at idle. I'm going to send the pictures to ACT tomorrow and see what they say.

Good idea
 
Ok looks like I'm going to need a new pressure plate too. There are a few fingers that got bent and grooved out. Also the clutch disc was installed correctly and looks fine to reuse.
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Ok, got the clutch back from ACT this week. They replaced the pressure plate and TOB for free no questions asked, which is awesome. I'm wondering if the pressure plate was defective in the first place. At this point in time that is not clear. I'm going to try and put it back together today with a new OEM TOB and hopefully the dang thing will work this time. :pray:

Well its back together the car will start in gear, but once it starts the clutch/trans starts squealing pretty bad. With the car running in neutral it still will not go into gear. Next step is to bleed it again as there is no more adjustment left at the master cylinder without locking up the slave. Then I either need an OEM master and slave or im going to try an extended slave rod. :banghead:
 
If you are hearing loud squealing, you are OVER ADJUSTED. Back the master cylinder rod ALL THE WAY OUT, bleed system again, pressurize system, bleed again, then adjust back in until you get proper disengagement.
 
I'll have to try this later on this week ran out of time Sunday to really mess with anything else. The master is adjusted right now to a quarter turn back from where the slave locks up. So basically just enough for the slave to have free play. Do I really need to rebleed the system again if I back the adjusting rod back out of the master cylinder slightly?
 
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