Any pics? Not sure how you can tell the mileage was accurate not everyone is truthful. IF in doubt contact them, and try another source for those cams.

I just posted the pics sorry they weren't there in the first place I forgot to hit upload

They look like normal wear, whats in doubt are they gouged all around. http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/cylinder-head-short-block/407220-surface-corrosion-cam-lobes.html

Looks like there was trash in the oil when those cams were run.

The damage to the lobes does not look bad enough to junk the cams.

How to the journals that run on the head look?

Here is a pic of the length

Not bad from the pics, from here they don't look like there damaged or too worn.

I could return them and get my money back what do you guys think I don't really like seeing that damage to the exterior lobe

I'd have them polished and run them

BogusSVO said:

Looks like there was trash in the oil when those cams were run.

The damage to the lobes does not look bad enough to junk the cams.

How to the journals that run on the head look?

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^^smartest guy in our forum speaking^^

You can trust what Bogus has to say. I wouldnt junk 'em either if it were me. If it were me id bust out a my digital caliper/micrometer (if you dont have one you can go buy this tool for like $25) and just measure the lobes myself and check for any SUPER big differances.

As far as the gouge in the lobe, that nasy scratch in the first pic, I wouldnt worry about it to bad, dont try to polish it, if anything just bearley try to rub out the shapness. If it doesnt have a sharp point or feel "poky" then dont worry about it. If it has a bit of a sharpness to it than just carefuly rub it out.

Good point, what does the head and receiving cam-caps look like? That surface can be oh-so-carefuly cleaned and restored with propper grit sand paper and WD-40. Dont get greedy or carried away when doin this stuff. Take your time and check everything.

Maybe see if the seller would give you a partial refund via Paypal if you're content on keeping them.

I guess the good thing is where the lobe damage occurred. This could be from debris, a rocker coming off, an imperfection in the metal, etc. Nevertheless, this obvious damage should have been disclosed by the seller AND price should have reflected this.

Post a close up of the journals...any abnormal wear there?

I don't see anything wrong wrong with them. It has a little chip on the edges but that could be manufacture defect or something chipped it. Either way it doesn't matter because you're rockers don't even come close to touching it.

They are perfectly fine to run.

iugrad92turbo said:

They look like normal wear, whats in doubt are they gouged all around. http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/cylinder-head-short-block/407220-surface-corrosion-cam-lobes.html

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Normal wear? More clueless.

Dude they look ####ed from here. Chipped and scored.

Does your nail catch on the grooves? If yes, I wouldn't run them. Check the journals for damage too.

Well ask him for more pics closer up.

iugrad92turbo said:

Well ask him for more pics closer up.

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They're just fine.

iugrad92turbo said:

Yeah I guess.

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Yeah I guess.

I would clean those up with a small sand roll on a dremel just to smooth any rough casting away they would be fine to run

TSIfreek said:

I would clean those up with a small sand roll on a dremel just to smooth any rough casting away they would be fine to run

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Very bad idea. One false move and you're ####ed.

Any shop that can polish a crank, can polish the cams.

The chips in the side of the lobes, while not pretty, will not hurt. the wheel on the follower will not ride close to that.

If you want to polish the cams at home, a gallon of diesel fuel and some 2000 grit wet/dry sand paper.

Cut the wet/dry sandpaper about 1 inch wide and just use the ball of your thumb, keep it soaked in diesel fuel. Spin the cam with your other hand in the same rotation it would spin in the head.

Do not go back and forth with the sand paper.

While the damage look like it's away from the roller's route, something catastrophic happened and it's *usually best to have them checked close up for microscopic cracks.

It's really 50/50. You might be able to bolt them up as-is, but will never know if the cam's are twisted or have some weird micro-crack that will just cause major failure. I'd return them and yes I know that sucks because of lost time, issues with seller, etc.

evoredy said:

While the damage look like it's away from the roller's route, something catastrophic happened and it's *usually best to have them checked close up for microscopic cracks.

It's really 50/50. You might be able to bolt them up as-is, but will never know if the cam's are twisted or have some weird micro-crack that will just cause major failure. I'd return them and yes I know that sucks because of lost time, issues with seller, etc.

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They are a hardened cast iron cam, not a steel cam or a billet cam.

Do you have any idea how brittle a cast cam is? Drop it from 4 or 5 feet up it will clean snap into 2 or 3 pieces.

If it has any sort of crack, mirco or major or otherwise, 80% of the time you can see it with the naked eye.

As far as twist, a cast iron cam will snap, a steel will twist, a good example are the cams in the GM 3.1 and 3.4, the early ones were cast and would snap just in front of the #3 journal, the steel ones would have a spiral twist in the same place.

The chips on the lobe look like they were mishandled, or improperly packaged, and they clanked together causing the missing chips.

BougsSVO just want to say your right on the amound of pieces thay snap in. When I was in my machineing class the instructor told us that then told the class not to try it. We must have droped 20 junk cams after that and most broke 3 parts.

BogusSVO said:

They are a hardened cast iron cam, not a steel cam or a billet cam.

Do you have any idea how brittle a cast cam is? Drop it from 4 or 5 feet up it will clean snap into 2 or 3 pieces.

If it has any sort of crack, mirco or major or otherwise, 80% of the time you can see it with the naked eye.

As far as twist, a cast iron cam will snap, a steel will twist, a good example are the cams in the GM 3.1 and 3.4, the early ones were cast and would snap just in front of the #3 journal, the steel ones would have a spiral twist in the same place.

The chips on the lobe look like they were mishandled, or improperly packaged, and they clanked together causing the missing chips.

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Yet another reason to return them.

It is sort of a builders joke, mainly for a guy who is having his first engine built.

Take a junk cam in a new cam box, and tell the new guy his new $xxx dollar cam in, and he is just in time to watch the "cam stress test"

Pull the supposed "new" cam out of the box, give it a a quick look over, then slam it on the floor and watch it bust apart.... Then look at him and say "Well it failed, you need to order another cam"

The look on the new guys face is always priceless!

Lol if I pulled that off at work my boss would flip. We always give all the old crap back to the customer. Even old valve seals and stuff like that