hey im trying to do a coolant flush and the manual isn't helping a whole lot for my 2.4 engine, im looking for the location of the drain plug on the engine block to drain the coolant if anyone could help with a description or a picture or diagram I would be eternally grateful .

I've never heard of a engine block draing plug for coolant in Mitsu engines.(or any engine at that) but the way you drain your coolant is through the drain screw on the bottom of the radiator.

Another way to flush it is to disconnect the lower radiator hose and let it run disconnected for a little bit and the water pump will pump out all the fluid.

yeah I found that one relatively easy but what im getting from this diagram is that its like a freeze plug on the back near the intake manifold but I couldn't find one I ended up just draining the radiator and flushing with the hose but I changed the thermostat while I had it empty and I could see when I took it out that it still had all the coolant in the engine block and the manual is telling me to flush that portion out as well but im getting the impression that it could cause more problems than its worth by breaking up the rust settlements in the block. im really not too familiar with the cooling system but im just try to do this right how has it turned out for you when you flushed just the radiator?

born2tune said:

I've never heard of a engine block draing plug for coolant in Mitsu engines.(or any engine at that) but the way you drain your coolant is through the drain screw on the bottom of the radiator.

Another way to flush it is to disconnect the lower radiator hose and let it run disconnected for a little bit and the water pump will pump out all the fluid.

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A lot of engines have block drain plugs. I have seen them mostly in v8 and v6 applications though.

the manual is showing the location for the 2.0 and 3.0 models but not 2.4 I really don't know if it would be worth finding and draining but I figured it was a commen thing to do since the manual is telling me to do it.

Car Is overheating, Water Pump And Radiator Is Fine, Tstat Is Good. Upper And Lower hoses Are A Bit soft. I've flushed The Radiator And Water Is Flowing Fine. Car Runs Great Other Than That. Ooh And The Fans Are Coming On Normal. Not Sure What It Could Be. Maybe Its Just Me And I'm Paranoid, But The Upper Hose Swells Up And Gets Super Hard. Let It Idle And Took The Rad Cap Off And Can See Coolant Flowing. Ideas?? HeadGasket Maybe??

Are you losing coolant at all?

How old is the rad cap?

What temp are you calling overheating?

Radiator Cap Is Fine. And Only Temp Gauge I'm Using Is The One On The Dash, It Goes A Hair ToThe Right Of Straight Up And Down. The Tstat That Was In It When I Bought The Was Bad( Stuck Open). I've Driven It About 6 miles Total Without A Tstat. I've Had The Car About 2 Months, Just Trying To Get It Road Worthy. Running No Tstat Be A Problem??

yes you can run hot with out a thermostat, the water will move to fast with out it, so you will not get good heat transfer from the engine to the coolant, also you will not transfer heat from the coolant to the rad.

How do you know the rad cap is good? They need to be replaced or tester every other year.

I'll See If Mitsi Dealer Stocks OEM Tstat Or Can Order One. I Figured The Radiator Cap Was Fine Seeing As It Was Holding The Water/Coolant And Not Leaking From There. I'll Order A New Rad Cap To. Thanks Bogus. I'll Post Up If I'm Still Having Issues.

You should be able to get a replacement thermostat at your local auto shop like O'Reilleys or AutoZone. They generally have a huge stock of small parts like this. Your engine will thank you for the thermostat, as it's designed to work the most efficient within a predetermined temperature range.

mutters2Gspyder said:

Radiator Cap Is Fine. And Only Temp Gauge I'm Using Is The One On The Dash, It Goes A Hair ToThe Right Of Straight Up And Down.

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That's not overheating, that's completely normal. Replace the T-stat and call it a day.

And please stop capitalizing every word. It makes it very difficult to read.

WES_393 said:

That's not overheating, that's completely normal. Replace the T-stat and call it a day.

And please stop capitalizing every word. It makes it very difficult to read.

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Thanks For The Help Guys. I'll Slap A Tstat In There. And Wes Sorry About Every Word Being In Caps. I'm Doing This From My Phone And It Just Types This Way, I've Tried To Fix It. ThanksAgainFor The Help.

DeroPGT said:

ok.....well now im thinking replace engine/tranny. I found a site that sells 4G63 J-spec engines with 5 speed tranny. 1600 is their price....not bad. The only thing im wondering is about changing the auto to 5 speed and how much work it will be if the engine is already being replaced. I will be taking it to a shop, considering i dont have the resources or time to do this myself.

So..............what do you guys think? I've been researching, but since Club DSM is down....its hard to find good info.

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I've swapped my 97' tsi from auto to manual not horribly hard to do if you know how a clutch works and how to align a clutch..

Ive got a 95 gst not that long ago and put a front mount intercooler on, after the install I noticed the car will go above normal operating temp, I have 1760cfm slim fans that are on a switch, could the front mount really be blocking the air flow that bad

Air will follow the path of least resistance.

You will need to duct the FMIC to rad so the air is forced through all the cores

Dipdawg said:

Thank you guys. I had time to mess with it tonight and it looks like my temp guage is lying to me. It will be as high/hot reading as possible but the lazer thermo only reads 180 at the thermostat housing. I drove it and kept checking it and probably did this for 15-20 miles and still normal readings the whole time while the guage said in the red.

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Your coolant temp sensor is probably bad then I'd replace it otherwise your car wont go into closed loop.

962ndgen said:

Your coolant temp sensor is probably bad then I'd replace it otherwise your car wont go into closed loop.

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^This. Do you have any way to log your car?

How do I go about doing that, ducting it I mean

BogusSVO said:

Air will follow the path of least resistance.

You will need to duct the FMIC to rad so the air is forced through all the cores

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Would running the stock turbo be my problem the car isnt really modded all its got is forged pistons a greddy bov and a full exhaust plus the front mount

95gst82 said:

How do I go about doing that, ducting it I mean



Would running the stock turbo be my problem the car isnt really modded all its got is forged pistons a greddy bov and a full exhaust plus the front mount

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Nope, running the stock turbo has nothing to do with the overheating. Does it overheat only when sitting still, when driving, or both?

95gst82 said:

Ive got a 95 gst not that long ago and put a front mount intercooler on, after the install I noticed the car will go above normal operating temp, I have 1760cfm slim fans that are on a switch, could the front mount really be blocking the air flow that bad

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What kind of intercooler?

The fans might be part of the issue. The ECU kicks on the fans while your cruising over a certain speed to help keep air flowing through the radiator. If the fans aren't wired into the stock wiring and only turn on with the switch, then they're not helping like they should be. The stock fans are also shrouded which makes a huge difference in airflow through the radiator.

So I would try running the fans full time and see if that helps. Ducting would also be a good idea, especially if the intercooler is a cheaper/older design that doesn't allow air to flow past very well. Nobody can really tell you how to do the ducting, your just trying to stop air flow flowing around the radiator instead of through it. Sheet metal, high-temp resistant foam, etc have all been used in the past.

Ive got a 95 gst that I got a front mount for and after installing it I noticed it getting hot so I installed the side mount and it ran at normal operating temp the whole time.


So heres my question, whats the easiest way and cheapest to do ducting so I can run the front mount cause the side mount is beat up and would pulling the thermostat be a good idea, I live in Arizona and its still pretty hot here, any help isggreatly accepted

gieri002 said:

Nope, running the stock turbo has nothing to do with the overheating. Does it overheat only when sitting still, when driving, or both?

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Only when driven but thats why its a trip cause it start doin it till after I put the front mount on

Ducting will only help if it's overheating at speed, if you're over heating sitting at a light or in traffic <40mph then it's the fan(s). If you're overheating both idle/cruise speeds then you're in the market for a radiator upgrade, fans, and ducting...

With coolant system upgrades I'm able to drive around here in the Valley with 180* coolant temps and still haven't ducted my radiator. Where we live does create high intake temps/coolant temps but with a good setup you can get away with a big FMIC.

Ok so I posted here in past with a over heating problem thinking I had some sort of cooling system failure, turns out its my front mount thats causing my car to slowly get hot, when the car had the stock side mount the car would run at normal operating temp all day, really noticed today for the first time how much hotter it was running,if I let the car idle and I mean for like 2 hours it wont get hotter then normal operating temp, when I start driving it takes mabye 10 to 20 minutes before it will start its very slow climb up the temp gauge, has never overheated but just gets hotter then it should, so I installed the side mount today and it stays right dead smack at normal operating temp all day when driving !!!!!!!!!!! My question is whats needs to be done so I can run the front mount and would removing the thermostat help me at all, the side mount is in ok shape but its falln apart slowly, this is my daily driver so any advice is greatly accepted