If your getting a "click" when you try to crank it over, it's more than likely a bad starter ground. The starter ground should be connected to one of the bellhousing-engine bolts. Either that or the starter is bad, which doesn't always show up during a bench test.

The engine rotates clockwise, but it really doesn't matter. Use a 1/2 drive ratchet in the crank center bolt.

It turns clockwise.

New starter and it grounds into itself. The other ground that connects to one of the starter bolts and runs to the battery appears to be in good shape, no frays or anything like that. You can hear the solenoid and starter try to kick over but it sounds like the gear tries to engage and that causes the motor in the starter to lock up.

So thoughts would be to get a new battery terminal and just try that 1st?

I would check all the ground wires and terminals, and replace anything that looks questionable. Make sure the power wire is tight where it connects to the starter.

Does it sound like this:
[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kd8wWC7j1ZM]Starter making clicking sound, what to do? - YouTube[/ame]

Yeah that is the sound that it was making.

So far I have replaced:
- Starter/Solenoid
- All battery cables
- Battery

It finally cranked over but still has the tendency to take 5 or 6 attempts to turn over. I tested the ignition wire and got a light showing current through it when i turned the ignition over but the original wire shows 2 wires which has been spliced into one. Also, there are some purple wire connectors that were previously not connected. I will try to get some pictures of those and post those as my description is rather ambiguous.

Overall this may be a take it to a mechanic and have them look at the wiring type job.

If you can find a factory service manual it will show you ever possible wire and how it should be hooked up. It really comes handy at times. I think you can find them online for 20-30 bucks.

Have you done a starter draw test? it might be the ring and pinion gear mesh being to tight thats not allowing the engine to turn.you might have to pull the starter to see if the teeth on the starter and flywheel ringgear are damaged,is your car an auto?i have seen flex plates come loose then jam the ringgear into the transmission bellhousing when the starters engaged.

Bad contact in the selenoid part of the starter (their attached to the opposite sides of the external battery cable connections) not making contact with the plunger ring when the plunger is pulled back to make the ring make contact with the two copper contacts to make the electric motor swing .. seen this a few times.

Replaced the contacts and all is good.

Cable good from battery to the starter, or even connected to the battery?

Can't imagine a seized motor, but the extension on a half inch drive to shove into the belt sprocket square hole and wrench the pulley clockwise is a good test to see if you did lock up the motor.

Replaced the starter/battery/cables and it finally started, I'm still having issues with it not wanting to turn over though. I few turns of the key and it will finally turn over, my next focus area is going to be around the ignition. Any other thoughts?

Loan me your garage so I can work and I'll fix it.

SoonerTalon said:

Replaced the starter/battery/cables and it finally started, I'm still having issues with it not wanting to turn over though. I few turns of the key and it will finally turn over, my next focus area is going to be around the ignition. Any other thoughts?

Click to expand...

I cut off all the tips (1") of the wires to batt, starter ground, ect. and re- clamped them to their terminals and ect. it did help enough to remove the hesitation.
Also ground in as many places as possible, block/intake mani/ tranny. I hope this helps.

Thanks everyone.

SoonerTalon said:

Thanks everyone.

Click to expand...

What was the problem?

I've seen stretched battery cable clamps cause your previous problem, but it seems like you've solved that part. Always clean cable connections with a wire brush and try twisting the cable clamps by hand firmly to make sure it doesn't move after tightening it.

I've seen burned wires coming from the ignition switch causing start problems. Try a visual inspection of the wires and make sure the pins are looking good (no corrosion, burned connectors/wires, etc). If power is being supplied at the appropriate times, your problem is probably elsewhere.

To help aid in electrical diag, I've made simple diagrams of the connector for the ignition switch and the relay. I was going to post the diagram from alldata but wasn't sure if that was allowed, .



Pin 5 (3-BY) is the wire going to the starter relay

Starter relay:

Pin 2 and 4 is the relay coil (low current side)
Pin 3 and 1 is the switch contact (high current side)

Hope it helps