Any sort of direction I should turn next?

Have you check your plugs? Took me forever to chase down a boost leak I had and when I fixed it my plugs were fouled out pretty badly. I replaced them and gaped them at .026 and it runs perfect now.

screamingdemon said:

Have you check your plugs? Took me forever to chase down a boost leak I had and when I fixed it my plugs were fouled out pretty badly. I replaced them and gaped them at .026 and it runs perfect now.

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I changed my plugs about a month ago to those ngk coppers. Its the ones that have the 2 over headed prongs where you cant space them.

Kdouglas89 said:

I changed my plugs about a month ago to those ngk coppers. Its the ones that have the 2 over headed prongs where you cant space them.

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go with either the factory ngks or the step colder plug

as for your bogging, sounds either plugs, wires, also boost leaks, you need to spray everything down with water. You said checked the inc piping but boost leaks can be anywhere from the cold side all the way up to your tb, injector seals, and your vc if your pcv valve isnt working correctly.

Also did you re torque all your exhaust manifold studs? It is very necessary to do this after a full warm up just like head studs. If not they will create nasty exhaust leaks and could cause running conditions that your car can not compensate.
for.

-kris

Like Kris stated. Make sure all of your plugs are gaped right, all the ignition wires are in good shape. You can try spraying down the ignition wires & coil with salt water in a dark room or at night with the car idling. If you see spark jumping anywhere; you have a problem. If that yields no results, do a boost leak test. Spray down everything with soapy water. couplers, pipes, intercooler, throttle body shaft-seals, FIAV ect. Also check the turbo for any shaft play up/down or in/out. report back after and we can steer you in the right direction!!

Do you have any gauge for reading vacuum?
You can also spray anything air related with carb cleaner and see if the idle bumps up

Boost leak test and NGK BPR6ES spark plugs.

Let us know what you find from the boost leak test.

athlete3344 said:

Boost leak test and NGK BPR6ES spark plugs.

Let us know what you find from the boost leak test.

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Can only do soap and water trick, don't have whats needed to do a true boost leak test. I replaced plugs last month to NGK coppers, but you cannot adjust gap because they are double pronged on the top.

Cannot find any boost leak btw.

I'm also having the same issue but with no maf connected, when the maf is connected the car doesn't even go past about 3000 rpm before it bogs no backfire at all, I have cel code for what seems to be maf wiring.

Kdouglas89 said:

Can only do soap and water trick, don't have whats needed to do a true boost leak test. I replaced plugs last month to NGK coppers, but you cannot adjust gap because they are double pronged on the top.

Cannot find any boost leak btw.

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Once you do a proper boost leak test, you'll find it. There is no other alternative. People say use carb cleaner and listen for idle changes but that has NEVER worked for me. A true boost leak test is leaps and bounds ahead of the carb cleaner trick.

Do yourself a favor. Go to home depot and a tire shop and pick up what's needed for a boost leak tester. Get creative if you have to. I've seen people use a tennis ball in a coupler with a long valve stem in it to test for leaks.

If you don't have access to an air compressor, go a gas station and use theirs OR find a friend with one.

Never skimp on a boost leak test. So many people rule it out thinking it's not their problem and don't test for it. Then they wonder why their new plugs/wires/fuel filter/coil packs/cas/cps/ecu/transistor/fuel pump/maf did nothing to help their problem.

Edit: ^Also, if you car runs better with the MAF unplugged it's very likely it's bad. Don't throw parts at it without diagnosis though.

Kdouglas89 said:

You can hear the turbo start to spool, then as its about to boost, it bogs down. If I keep building boost while its bogging, it will sound like a backfire of sorts. .

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Perfect explanation of spark plug blow out. Which means your plugs are gapped too big or your running too rich. Get rid of those crappy double ground strap spark plugs your running and get some standard ngk copper cores. Then do a boost leak and fix the leaks you find.

$8 for fresh plugs and go to a smaller gap. Cheap and simple enough to rule out.

When my wife got her first tsi it sounded like it was doing something similar to this. Plugs and wires took care of my problem.

nickxf250 said:

When my wife got her first tsi it sounded like it was doing something similar to this. Plugs and wires took care of my problem.

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Replaced plugs and wires, and it worked... Why does it always have to be the simple stuff? I feel like a tard!

Complaints?

Kdouglas89 said:

Replaced plugs and wires, and it worked... Why does it always have to be the simple stuff? I feel like a tard!

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I wouldn't complain about it being a simple solution

Kdouglas89 said:

Replaced plugs and wires, and it worked... Why does it always have to be the simple stuff? I feel like a tard!

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Your problem was those stupid twin tipped plugs. The "stronger" spark is a sales gimmick. It doesn't work like that. Electricity takes the path of least resistance, so it's going to go to one electrode not both. The fact that you can't gap them is more than likely what did it in, since DSM's run a much tighter gap than what any plug company comes pregapped to.