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oil filter housing porting

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kutta

10+ Year Contributor
30
0
Mar 11, 2009
Manchester, Connecticut
Well I just finished porting my oil filter housing. Ive seen some pics of it done but Ive noticed that their are two seats were the piston rested. One is on the "top of the piston" and then if you look carefully you can see seat marks on the side of the piston. Do you guys port all the way to the seat marks where the top of the piston rests or where the side is?
 

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Well I've never heard of porting your oil filter housing....I believe the factory oil system is plenty good enough for just about all power levels. What is your reasoning for the porting?
 
Well either im on some other car forum or something. This is really common amoung those who know these cars. pressure relief valve is restriction, specially after removing balance shafts or oil quirters and running say 20w-50

come on guys I gotta put this back on the car, I need some responses or did I post this in the wrong section?
 
Well I just finished porting my oil filter housing. Ive seen some pics of it done but Ive noticed that their are two seats were the piston rested. One is on the "top of the piston" and then if you look carefully you can see seat marks on the side of the piston. Do you guys port all the way to the seat marks where the top of the piston rests or where the side is?

keep a small lip on the housing surround so the plunger will seal properly.
 
Well I've never heard of porting your oil filter housing....I believe the factory oil system is plenty good enough for just about all power levels. What is your reasoning for the porting?

You may want to search into this a little more.

That port job looks ok but you can remove some more materail if you need to. You may still see 100 PSI+ if you have the bs removed, no squirters and rev it high. You can also cut the relief piston spring if you want to do a 'down and dirty' fix.
 
Well I've never heard of porting your oil filter housing....I believe the factory oil system is plenty good enough for just about all power levels. What is your reasoning for the porting?

This is how misinformation gets spread to the new guys, sadly.

A.) You have a 420A, which has nothing to do with the OP's post.
B.) On the 4G63, typically when you remove the balance shaft setup, usually you suffer from high oil pressure, which he is trying to resolve.

And to the OP, yes, that looks pretty good, I wouldn't go much farther than that.
 
Thanks guys..... Yea so I only went a couple of hairs more toward the top seat, and then just cleaned up the corners more so hopefully this is good.

Cause I'll tell you what Im not taking that sucker off again. I hate removing them cause of all the stuff you gotta take off to get that timing cover back to get that stupid bolt...

I almost cut the timing cover corner off but I couldn't do it cause well, you know I spend like 90 bucks or what ever for a new one... EeEkkkk
 
I ported mine a bit more than yours and also cut one turn on the spring. Now psi are normal, after three attempts :banghead: of try and error.
 
Yeah Im going to need to do something with that spring. psi seems to not go above 80 but thats only at like 5k, I havent started tuning yet, I want her running right be for I beat on her. cause my cold start up psi at idle is like 60 and settles down to 25psi. And when crusing at like 2k its at 50psi and 3k its like 60 psi. Which is to high for me. So I guess Im going to start with some crush washers and see what I can do from their. If the results aren't right then will go to cutting the spring.
 
If you want to do something with the spring, go to the junkyard and rob one out of a 1.8, or order a new spring for the 1.8. Goes right in and will lower your pressure. I ported my housing years ago and dont have squirters, and my pressure is pretty damn high. Idle is fine at around 12.5psi when shes warmed up, but Im seeing 50+ just cruising at relatively low RPM and itll hit 100+ when I get over 5.5K or so. I ordered the spring from JNZ tuning, and have just been too busy to put it in. When I do install the spring, if the pressure isnt to my liking, I will double the crushwashers and go from there.
 
This is how misinformation gets spread to the new guys, sadly.

A.) You have a 420A, which has nothing to do with the OP's post.
B.) On the 4G63, typically when you remove the balance shaft setup, usually you suffer from high oil pressure, which he is trying to resolve.

And to the OP, yes, that looks pretty good, I wouldn't go much farther than that.

Speaking of misinformation.. 1G NTs do not have 420As :thumb:
 
Speaking of this it may sound stupid but I'm asking for advice, If I cut the pressure relief spring due to my pressure being to high will this lower my p.s.i at idle also? I have not ported the housing yet, hitting 85 P.S.I at 6500 RPM but haven't took it much higher don't want to blow the turbo. Also my B.S is removed and I have oil squirters still in.
 
Cutting the spring should not effect idle pressure at all, it will just allow the valve to open under less pressure than it did before- this is provided that you dont cut the spring so much that the piston isnt under a constant preload from the spring. Basically, you provide less preload, thereby reducing the "cracking" pressure of the valve, which will in turn allow the valve to release sooner and possibly open more than it was able to before. For example, if it wasnt opening until it saw at least 40- 50 PSI with the stock spring and the valve was moving .25" back under pressure, in theory, with less spring, it may now open at 30psi and the valve may move .3125" back which would utilize the port in the housing better. Personally, Id just use the 1.8 spring and or double the crush washers before cutting the stocker. Its easier in my opinion.
 
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