Sounds like the terminals are having a problem keeping current flowing.

Check for corrosion on the terminals,clean it up post back.Next step after that would be replacing the terminals.

Will do, thanks man.

Clean your terminals and tighten them. There's a bad connection between the cable and terminal.

Thanks buddy, I'll get on it.

Also check your ground that bolts to your firewall, could be that messing with the terminal is moving the cable enough to make a better contact there.

just get new terminals and replace them. They are cheap and use to do and will solve your problem because I already went through this

He should clean them anyways as they are probably all corroded.

Exact problem happened with another car of mine. The terminal wires were pretty worn out so I kept them as straight as possible (tried to keep from putting any stress on the wire where it meets the claim for the terminal). I also tightened both connectors down very tight.

1990dsmkid said:

just get new terminals and replace them. They are cheap and use to do and will solve your problem because I already went through this

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I second this i have had this problem spend yourself 20$ get good conectors and if u can buy new leads as well save u alot of headache

Quick tip to stop battery corrosion on the terminals and keep them nice and clean and easy to loosen and tighten. Get those little black and red pads for under the battery terminals and soak them in oil, you can also spray alittle oil around the terminals and stuff of course after cleaning properly. This is by far the best method I've found to keep terminals on good shape and corrosion free!!

Or coat them with dielectric grease (even regular grease works but dielectric is better).

If you terminals are the original ones from 95, then replace them.

I had this problem with my car, new terminals solved it.

luv2rallye said:

Or coat them with dielectric grease (even regular grease works but dielectric is better).

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Let me get this straight, you're telling him to coat his battery terminals with dielectric grease, which is an insulator?

TSiAWD666 said:

Let me get this straight, you're telling him to coat his battery terminals with dielectric grease, which is an insulator?

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more accurate, a non conductor. it couldnt possibly effect the metal to metal contact, but keeps the corrosion away.

It most certainly does prevent the conductivity! Do not listen to this advice, anyone, please.

Are you insane, im a toyota master tech and if we dont cover our terminals in that grease they corrode within a few years, what is the purpose of that grease then?
other uses, spark plug wires, abs sensor plugs to prevent rust.

The purpose as you said is to prevent corrosion but it's done by creating a seal so water can't get into things, either as moisture in the air or water. Regardless though it's an insulator (which is pretty much synonymous with "non-conductive").

So like with spark plugs you put it on the ceramic area so that when the boots are installed it creates a seal between the rubber boot and the ceramic portion of the plug to prevent water from getting inside where it can corrode the connection between the wire connector and the spark plug's conductive tip. There is an added benefit in that application as it acts as an insulator to help minimize arching through the plug boot. You do NOT put it on the tip of the spark plug or the plug wire connector that goes over the spark plug's tip as it will inhibit conductivity there.

In the case of battery terminals maybe we're not on the same page. Theoretically you could use dielectric grease on the terminals anywhere the metal to metal contact isn't made. For example, after assembly (the cables are all tightened down), you could THEN apply the dielectric grease around the area to prevent corrosion and seal things. Is this perhaps what you meant? If so then I misunderstood though I think a clarification was still needed. We still should not be applying the dielectric grease on any metal surfaces requiring electrical conductivity which would include the insides of the cable terminals and the sides of the battery posts.

Or perhaps were you talking about battery terminal sprays instead of dielectric grease? They are two different things.

If you've ever replaced the battery, which I'm sure has been done at some point in your car's life, sometimes one of the terminals is smaller than the OE battery. Also, metal wears down over time and the terminal could have stretched enough to where even at the tightest you can get it, its not tight enough.

Get a glass of warm water, add a tablespoon of baking soda and stir.

Take a toothbrush and with the mix brush off the corrosion around the battery posts since the baking soda neutralizes the corrosion with a foaming action and helps it to get things clean. Do this procedure on the battery cables as well.

Rinse afterwards with plain water ..

Take a tool an scrub off the battery terminals to make them shine along with the battery cables - get all metal surfaces metal bright and shiny.

After the rinse, make the connections to the battery super tight ... You'll have no more problems like this again if you just maintain your battery and connection on a regular basis when needed.

When battery connectors are getting worn, or when the lead can't "bite down" on the posts anymore, replace the connectors with new ones.

BUT, don't let the mix get in the battery cells, for this mix will also neutralize the sulfuric acid in the cells killing the battery.

An 'old timer' trick that still works.

-DSM

TSiAWD666 said:

It most certainly does prevent the conductivity! Do not listen to this advice, anyone, please.

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You got to be kidding. No offense intended but the way you wrote that is borderline rude. You know he's an electronics engineer right?

This is shopclass knowledge, I'm surpirsed you are not aware of the method.

Silicone grease - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

"It can be applied to the actual contact as well, because the contact pressure is sufficient to penetrate the grease. Doing so on such high pressure contact surfaces between different metals has the advantage of sealing the contact area against electrolytes that might cause rapid galvanic corrosion."

Ever used RTV in a butt connector? I use it on our heavy equipment trailers where the dovetail is just inches off the ground when a John Deere loader is weighing it down. Reason being is the extreme moisture and debris from the dirt roads that damages thin heatshrink sealed connections. Among other reasons.

Use dielectric especially on the bolt threads. And guess what, there's never a need to tighten the sh!t out of terminals. Use the grease, tighten the bolt enough to prohibit terminal from spinning on post that's it! If you tighten it too much it will break the seal around the post leading to guess what! Corrosion. Yep it's their own damn fault.

Sorry for the confusion. I thought it was obvious where to put the grease but obviously not since this has caused such a commotion. You put the dielectric grease all around the OUTSIDE of the battery terminals - not anywhere the terminal mates up against the battery post itself (since dielectric grease is an insulator) or where any current would have to flow through it (like between a wire ring spade and the battery terminal bolt/nut - eg. starter or fusebox wires). The purpose is to seal out air which promotes corrosion as well as reduce galvanic corrosion on the terminal.

As previously pointed out there also exists battery terminal sprays that can be used (IMO messy) or special battery post protector rings to seep up leaking acid fumes around the post (although I've never had any luck with the rings - they just get covered in dirt/mud which holds moisture). I've even covered the terminal outsides with Vaseline which works good as a very low cost solution since it blocks out moisture and air well. Or if you have a temperature problem that melts the dielectric grease or Vaselene, you can use high temp wheel bearing grease. Again all these are applied only on the outside of the terminal.

On the back of my CRC technician grade Di-Electric grease it says SEALS,LUBRICATES,PROTECTS and INSULATES electrical contacts, spark plugs, battery terminals, and fasteners from moisture.

Someone told me that dielectric grease is an extremely good conductor. So when re-installing the starter i put that stuff on where starter and bellhousing touch (idea there was to get better ground). Six months and two starters later i realized that it was the grease that was causing a BAD ground and made it seem like starter was going out. Cleaned that stuff off and have not had issues since.

This thread is more entertaining than the tv show im watchin right now

TSI666 is the real deal, has made magazines and local famous status, his car is the shit and im quite certain that his hard work, skills and knowledge base got his car to that level and into the pages of an import mag (c'mon you liers, dont act like you dont wish that was you)

Id take his advice over anyones in here. Period.

Grease for better starter ground? keep 'em comin guys!