Sounds like your starter is shot. Try changing it and see what happens.

ok guys.....i have had this issue out of my 94 1g eclipse gst. i knew the car had this problem buying it.

it starts up good while the engine is cold. after driving it awhile, it gets a lot or problems wanting to starts back up after i shut it down.

the car just makes a "click" sound and motor doesnt crank sometimes.....when it does decide to try and crank the motor, its very slow.

i plan to check all the wiring at the starter when the heat cools down outside and make sure i have correct voltage.

Here is a video i took today after i got home from work....

1g eclipse gst starting problems.... - YouTube

The mods are out of control. There's no reason I would have ever wanted to be in a 149 page thread full of every starting problem that any DSMer has ever had. Sorry for you stuckinkaos, but your problem isn't the only one in here.

You have either a seizing bearing, failing alternator, failing starter, or bad wiring. I'm sorry it's so vague, but all of those conditions will cause that. I'm sure somewhere in the other 149 pages of problems that someone's posted the answer. There's no way for anyone to email you a thread with the solution if it has been merged here, and you should start searching for ways to determine any of those 4 very broad topics.

Moderators... Please examine your thread merging policies and acknowledge how they are counter-productive to others providing people with help. Good answers get lost in a sea of bad threads. They "go away" when they're merged.

Edit: I'm un-subscribing from this thread. If a moderator takes offense to me calling them out on a bad practice, you know my PM, I will not be discussing anything else here.

Yes I thought it was weird as well. I have been on car forums for over 10 years and have never seen something like this before. There is always tech articles on how to trouble shoot things the commonly go wrong with the car

Ok. Back to my topic. So far I have check the starter relay, starter itself and ignition circuit. I unplug the black/yellow wire from the starter solenoid, got 12v running to it. Put it on the starter solenoid and it jumps down to 6v. That isnt enough to kick the starter solenoid on.

So. There must be a short in the wire from starter relay to starter solenoid. I think ill just rewire it completely with a new wire.

Any extra help would be great...thanks

stuckinkaos said:

I unplug the black/yellow wire from the starter solenoid, got 12v running to it. Put it on the starter solenoid and it jumps down to 6v. That isnt enough to kick the starter solenoid on.

So. There must be a short in the wire from starter relay to starter solenoid.

Click to expand...

No, if you had a short there you would not get 12v when you unplugged it! Any powered wire with no load (no current flowing) or short on it will read 12v.

What you have is either (1) a weak battery or (2) a high resistance joint/connection somewhere between the battery and the starter solenoid which is dropping 6v or (3) a near shorted out starter solenoid. If your battery still reads 12v when you connect up the starter solenoid, you can rule it out. Since you say you checked the starter itself (hopefully by directly connecting +12v to the starter solenoid) you can rule it out. That leaves option 3. A high resistance joint (anything over 0.5 ohm) could be in the starter relay contacts, ignition switch, loose/corroded wire connections (even a connector), or even a bad wire.

Yes. I have manualy jumped the starter and its good. I just checked all the voltage. I only have 10.8 coming out of the ignition switch. Does this mean its goin south or possible bad ground?

10.8 with starter solenoid connected? Does the battery read 12.6 when trying the starter? 10.8 is not great but I would think it's enough to engage the starter solenoid. However you said you have 6v at the solenoid so that leaves 4.8v drop between the ignition switch and the solenoid which is your REAL problem. It may be a bad starter relay. Try removing it and just jumping it's black/yellow to it's black-red. You don't need the starter relay unless you want the clutch pedal not pressed or factory theft alarm functions (the relay just opens when these happen - normally it's always closed).

Guess you didn't read that the stater cranks its not the starter is a leaking fuel injection its flooded unless crank it a lot or coast it to get the fuel out faster.

yes, i have 10.8v coming from the ignition switch to the relay. from the relay to starter solenoid i have 6v at the starter. im putting my probe in the back of the relay to check voltage. i got 11.5v a few time coming out of the back of the ignition switch, but it drops very fast down to 10.8. all this with the black/yellow wire attached at the starter solenoid.

im really thinking my main ground needs to be cleaned. i think that would explain the 10.8v at the ignition switch.

can someone tell me where the main battery ground goes? right now they two ground wires from the battery. one runs to the firewall where it looks like they scratched the paint and attached it right behind the battery. second goes to the upper bolt that attaches the starter to the bellhousing.

O.p. I'm not sure you understand how the starter works read on please. The reason it starts while going down hill and poppin the clutch is it Engages engine speed from the momentum built up from you rolling thru the trans. Just like the starter does it builds up speed and the Solenoid engages the flywheel thus starting the motor. If your starter cranks but doesn't start the car. Than the solenoid is not working properly and needs to be looked at or changed. Your best bet is to remove starter and have it tested, so you can see if Solenoid is moving starter gear out like its supposed to. If it doesn't move out you need a new starter or you can try and rebuild it if parts are available, or find a starter rebuild shop. If its not that your fly wheel starter ring is damaged and missing alot of teeth.

I had a similar problem with getting mine to crank. Here is the thread where I posted what I found. http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/electrical-tech/467747-random-cranking.html

It's possible that your starter is weak therefore is not spinning the engine fast enough to start it. Also have you checked compression on the engine? If you have low compression that also could be the cause of no start with the starter, I've seen that before.

where is that wire connection? did you have 12v everywhere else? im having voltage drop begin at the ignition switch or atleast in only starting with 10.8v and dropping from 10.8 to 6 somewhere between relay and starter solenoid.

i also see that your in Wilmington, come up to coastal plains dragway much?

stuckinkaos said:

can someone tell me where the main battery ground goes? right now they two ground wires from the battery. one runs to the firewall where it looks like they scratched the paint and attached it right behind the battery. second goes to the upper bolt that attaches the starter to the bellhousing.

Click to expand...

Those are correct. Make sure they are clean and tight - same for battery terminals.

I haven't been up to coastal plains in a few years but I have been meaning to get back up there. I had 12v everywhere when I have the wire to the start solenoid connected to the multimeter alone. When I tried to measure the voltage to the start solenoid while cranking I noticed that it dropped to 6v. I had bench tested the start relay and clutch switch. Also, I did voltage drop test on my positive and negative wires, which all checked good. The connection that I repaired is inside the wiring harness. The reverse light switch and start solenoid wiring go to the same plug in the harness. The 2 yellow and black wires that go into the connector merge into 1 larger wire in the harness and that is where I found my problem. One of them corroded too bad to conduct well. So, it only had one smaller wire that couldn't deliver enough amps to the solenoid left.

Gonna throw a curve ball here from my experience with a related problem: I had the same issue -no start until I had forward car movement ( with me, it was being pulled with a rope, then in 3rd gear, popped the clutch and it took off..) :

Any CELS per chance when you're driving around?

I had a bad Temp Sensor that was causing my issue. It was bad, but not bad enough to throw a CEL. I replaced the Temp Sensor and my starting issues cleared up in a quick. the Temp Sensor was messing with my ECU to prevent starting, for I had spark and plenty of fuel.

It's the lowest most sensor on the T-stat housing with the two prongs coming out of it at right angles from one another. Takes a 18mm deepwell socket to remove.

The starter does crank the motor over just fine it spudders a lot once it starts you can smell the glad from it being flooded and once you get it to start it will fire up just fine till you let it sit awhile and the injector bleeds back down.The sensor is brand new and checks out fine.

Even with a manifold that looks like its been through a war is shouldn't cause your car to not start. It sure won't sound pretty when she does but non the less it should start.

It's the car cranking and just not turning over?

Start by jump starting the car, if it doesn't do anything you know it's not the battery and you could move on. Does it turn or no? Cause if it doesn't, your battery is fully dead, check to see if you have power to all accessories, if you do have power than could be your starter.

Its your starter. Get it tested and get back to us.

Well two day's ago on a date I was out with my girl and my 97 gst. We pulled into a gas station, got some drinks and then went to leave. Car started, I put it in reverse but it sputtered and died. I tried to start it again but it wouldn't start. It just turned over but didn't do anything. I let it sit for 10 minutes and it started? It was super embarrasing and I'd rather it not happen again.. Any idea on the what thell happened?

- Fuel Filter
- Clutch
- MAF

Clutch? ? . I plan on replacing fuel filter tomorrow. My mas is fine, or it wouldn't run at all, or atleast run shitty.

He was probably referring to your shifter cables. Maybe one of them went bad and its causing your clutch to pop.

My guess is either coolant temp sensor going bad and creating a rich fuel mixture on start up, or a clogged fuel filter.

Ok, I replace both of them today.